Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1999 R34 GT (manual) RB25DE

Put out 101.8 kW fully stock then put on a full Trust stainless steel catback exhaust with 80mm tubing and 115mm tip, and a full cold air intake kit (with a Trust Airinx pod filter), did another power run and the car jumped up to 118.7 kW. I thought that wasnt too bad really!!!!

Edited by MissR34
  • 3 weeks later...

1997 R33 GTS25 series 2

I just got the 33 dynoed on the weekend. Came out with 160hp/116KW at the rear wheels. Engine is completly stock, Only with cat back exhaust.

Also: My mechanic pointed out to me that it has a set of nismo racing struts on it as well, They were already on the car = win!

Edited by OBNXSH
  • 2 weeks later...

new power figure

dyno dynamics

modifications: standard panel filter, coby extractors, 2.5" cat and 2.5" cat back exhaust, matty spry tuned safc2

power: 115.4rwkw

consensus: panel filter and an intake idea and i'd be done. wouldn't recommend going any further with power mods, despite the coolness of cams, cam gears, port and polish - costs would be astronomical for minimal gains, you would also be looking into a proper ecu to make the full use of them. extractors dont give any sort of peak power, but driveability and fatter mid range is very noticeable. with the retune reving is much smoother, power delivery is nice and "free", definitely a much better car to drive. peak power is only a number.

future mods: would stick to drivetrain mods; lightened flywheel, shorter diff ratio, lighter tail shaft - try to make the current power more useable.

does it have to be skyline...... 98 3.5 v6 Mitsubishi verada (4 speed slush box auto) with pacemaker extractors, lukey muffler mandrel bent 2.5 inch system + unichip = 130fwkw

  • Like 1

my r34 gt is now doing 119.9kW at rear wheels. just got extractors put on so going back in a couple of weeks (to allow ecu/sensors to adjust and do its funky thing). my car can now breathe!!!!!

Model: 1987 R31 Skyline Ti

Engine: RB30DE with VVT

Modifications: Extractors, exhaust, twin tb, safc untuned, billet f/wheel, reground surecams, 10.5 compression, 18 degrees timing, 98ron ultimate

Power: 150.9RWKW @ 172kmph an 507nm (374FtLb) torque at 144kmph

with more left in it, she's an economical daily but rich and restricted above 5000rpm so once thats tuned/fixed i'll be a happy camper

I built this engine and ran it in my 86 r31 Skyline station wagon . With a 4.11 locked diff , 195,60x14 radials @ 20psi , i recorded a best 1/4 mile of 14.15 @ 97.6 mph at Willowbank dragstrip 16-8-2006 .

Also at Lake Gairdner speed trials 2006 ,max speed of 141.18 mph ( 227kmh ) using 3.7 diif with .75 OD . ( had fuel starvation prob )

Well after yesterday.....

Model: 2000 R34 GTV Manual

Engine: RB25DE NEO

Good Mods: Fujitsubo Cat Back ( 70mm pipe ) - APEXi Panel Filter

Bad Mods: Starcorp Impul 18's w/275/35/18 ( fcuking heavy )

Power: 107.7rwkw

  • 5 weeks later...
Model: Z33 manual

Engine: VQ35DE

Mods: 2.5" catback exhaust (not entirely dual), intake manifold spacer, pod filter, Unichip

Power: 189.2rwkW

Mods: Above + extractors, high flow cats, modified intake plenum runners, increased redline, retuned Unichip

Power: 195rwkW

R31 Silhouette

RB30E Manual

S1 Cam, Powerchip, Extractors, 2.25" Exhaust with one muffler, no silencer, Hi Flow Cat

Heavy Duty Clutch, R33 Airbox with sealed cold air intake, LSD.

117rwkw 14.2 0-400m

Citroen Xsara VTS 2004 2.0lt XU10J4RS

Hi Flow sealed air intake, Tuned Mandrel Exhaust 2.25", Chip

114fwkw 15.0 0-400m

  • 1 month later...

Car: Aussie R31 GX

Engine: RB30e internally standard ie. standard head & cam

Trans: factory 5 speed

Mods: XF Falcon TB, 3" mandrel bent intake pipe with K&N pod, raising rate fuel pressure reg, extractors, 2.5" straight through exhaust with very high flow cat, advanced timing, 10mm leads, Exedy clutch & minispool.

Power: 108rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics dyno

Carl

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

pulled 115.6rwkw with a fuel problem.

need a new pump and change of fuel filter.

should be able to hit 120 with a bit of timing advance as well.

dynodynamics dyno @ unigroup engineering.

5zigen 2.5" catback exhaust & K&N Ms pod filter.

Edited by whyte

interesting figures,,,

for the record mine was totaly stock at 200.9hp (149kw)at flywheel and 140hp 104kw.@wheels(6500revs)

with 150lbft torque @ 5400 revs

from the comparisons on here and given that was stock with new plugs, thats quite high suprisingly.

Edited by Hesh
  • 2 weeks later...

I know its not a nissan and not a skyline.... (i'm on here looking for power figures of NA 6's... actually in the market for a 350Z to modify NA style...)

My N/A BA XR6 Falcon puts out 194.3rwkw... @ 6800rpm

(192rwkw @ 5800rpm)

Currently has -

Nizpro CAMS

CAPA flash tune (by Nizpro)

Custom Twin Throttle Body setup (2x 70mm TB's)

Nizpro Custom Extractors

BF Turbo Exhaust

to Come -

Compression increase from 9.65 > 10.4

Intake manifold Phenolic Spacer

Individual Throttle Bodies (6x 45mm)

Port and polish

Custom Zorst with twin 2.25" metal cats

Retune...

for those who don't care about the falcons but are curious, the Barra 182 Engine stock is a 4.0L inline 6 with 182 Fly wheel kilowatts.

How much should I expect from similar mods on a VQ35DE?

Cheers

Edited by Guardian_aiur

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well it does have a motor with the same DNA as an Accord V6 motor. The J30A is a successor to the Tiger rice cooker C32A motor found in those cars.
    • FD RX7 I would probably marry if legal R32 GTR is toughest NSX looks like it's made from leftover Prelude and Accord bits  
    • When going to a suspension shop should I send them the default nissan settings or just let them do their own thing? I ask this because I have aftermarket rear camber arms and my car is lowered a bit (front end is basically stock after I change to those nismo bushes)
    • Ok sounds good, thanks for your help. Hopefully if I end up changing it to the nismo bushes I don't get that veering issue. I don't think there's a point in lubing up these bushes again. Weird that it it makes just as much noise with all the grease inside it versus without grease prior to removal. Bizarre.
    • Yeah, you don't need camber bushes on stock arms to make a car drive straight unless it's got another problem. F'rigsample, slide the thing into a kerb, bend the front subframe mounts a little....subframe is now twisted, shifted or otherwise in the wrong spot...and you need to do funky stuff with the wheel alignment to get it to drive straight. Maybe a little more caster on one side, or a little more camber. FWIW, I can have my camber off side to side by a half a degree or more, and either way, so more one side, or more on the other, and the car doesn't really want to pull to one side. It will definitely ride road camber differently, and want to track uphill (ie, towards the centreline when on the LHS of a normal crowned piece of road, like it should) or want to roll downhill (which it really shouldn't). But on fairly flat road surfaces, like the middle of a 3 or 4 lane motorway, a half a degree either way doesn't make a lot of difference. I sometimes do quite a few miles with my wheel alignment messed up, because I don't always get a chance to set it right again after a serious dismantling, before I have to drive it to work again. Like, a whole week's worth of daily shuffle.
×
×
  • Create New...