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Suspension/Steering

2x Front Stock Sway Bar - $30ea

1x Rear Stock Sway Bar - $30ea

1x Castor rod with stock rubber bush - $50

1x Castor rod (bent) with aftermarket bush - $30

1x Aftermarket castor rod bush - $30

1x Stock rubber castor rod bush - $20

2x Front Hubs and Upper Control Arms - $150 for pair

2x Front Shock Absorber - $50 for pair

1x Steering Rack - $70

2x Front King Springs - $60ea

Front shit

1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - Make offer

1x Front Left Gaurd (damaged, is bent slightly, and crumpled a little bit on the inside) - $50

1x HICAS Steering Pump (i think) and all the lines to go with) - Make offer

1x Stock Intercooler Piping - Make offer

1x Front Bumper Reinforcement Bar (has small dent) - Make offer

2x Headlights (right side one has snapped mounts) - $100 for pair

2x Indicators (right side is cracked a bit, but works) - $30ea

1x Radiator (damaged, small dent) - $20

1x Air Con. stuff, condesor, lines, bottle etc at the front (condensor is damaged in bottom corner) - $20

1x Master Brake Cylinder

Misc stuff

2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $50 and $100

1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50

3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea

1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20

1x Stock RB20 Fuel Pump - $50

2x Slip-on (floating) spacers, 8mm thickness, PCD: 114.3 multi-stud 4/5 stud - $30

1x 3" Catback Exhaust with 2 mufflers and 3" polished tip - $100

8x Stock GTS-t rims - $70ea or $200 a set

4x GTS Type S Rims - $100 set

1x Power Window Control Panel (buttons are kinda fecked) - Make offer

1x High Performance 3.5" CatBack Exhaust

1x RB20 Turbo

Tires

2x Falken Ziex ZE-326 - 235/45 R17 - basically slicks in the middle lol, good for drift or burnouts etc - $10

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/8844/tires1hy9.jpg

1x 205/65 R15 on commie stocky 5 stud steelies - not much tread left, would be good for spare tire - $10

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/2962/tires4pb0.jpg

4x Goodyear tires - 235/60 R17 - bit of tread left, not much, alot of camber wear - $20

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/7929/tires5rb3.jpg

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Theres more shit, i cant remember it right now, MOST PRICES ARE VERY NEGOTIABLE!!

ASK FOR PICS IF U ARE INTERESTED

Located in Mitcham/Unley area in SA

Edited by nisskid
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  • 2 weeks later...

Do you have pics of the following:

1x Air Con. stuff, condesor, lines, bottle etc at the front (condensor is damaged in bottom corner) - $20

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
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