Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A quick guide to understanding Rim Offset / wheel offset for those of you buying some new rims for your cars, as the wrong offset can make a set of rims either not fit at all, or just not give you the right look :D Its all pretty simple, and the pic should be a huge help :P

offset.gif

...and...

8852NG05.gif

The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types.

ZERO OFFSET

The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

POSITIVE OFFSET

The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.

NEGATIVE OFFSET

The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

Meggala's nissan wheel offset guide.

Meggalas Nissan Wheel Offset Guide - COVERS ALL IMPORTS,(linky)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138435-wheel-offset-guide/
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Something that is also very useful is the offset calculator. Give you a measurement of the difference between your current wheels and your new rims. Will help you work out if those new rims will fit - clicky

  • 5 weeks later...

http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

heres another offset calc. im not sure if its the same but i thought that the first one used to be accessible. i have used it b4 w/o needing to log on

and another

http://www.driftworks.com/resources/wheel-...culator,17.html

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Just as important as the offset is the disk type for some Japanese rims, or just the clearance for rims in general - make sure the spokes clear the brake calipers before you pay for them.

Made an expensive mistake in ordering Volk GT-Cs which arrived with a B-disk type which didn't clear the stock Brembos on the front of my R33 GTR.

Matt

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...