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get a new oil pressure sender or just bang it with something. works for me when it displays really low figures. i have a new sender there just haven't been bothered to change it.

Mine tends to do the same when really hot.

Always has with both the RB20 & RB30DET.

The RB30DET is a totally different motor as well being that it uses a different oil pump etc.

I put it down to when the motor and oil gets hot the pressure sender plays funny buggers.

HPR 40 is the wrong oil. It is too thick to be running through a turbo. The bearing clearances are too small to fit such a thick oil through efficiently. HPR 30 is even too thick.

You should only use HPR 15 for this application.

As for Mobil 1..it is a very good oil but is not good for the turbo cars. It breaks down too rapidly. You will have to do oil changes every 3000 kms.

A semi synthetic 10w30/10w40/15w40 would be perfect for 32 and 33 skylines.

Try not to go lower than a 10 though as a 5w or 0w is too thin and allows more wear when the engine is cold.

Castrol and Penrite are really your best choices with oil in general.

ive found that after i installed an after market gauge and keeped the stock sender in that the stock units have to be faulty because the readings are to different doesn't matter what oil or filter has been used and ive only got 90000kms on the clock

if your concerned about your pressure install an after market gauge and keep the stock unit in so you dont get the warning light always coming on

As for Mobil 1..it is a very good oil but is not good for the turbo cars. It breaks down too rapidly. You will have to do oil changes every 3000 kms.

A semi synthetic 10w30/10w40/15w40 would be perfect for 32 and 33 skylines.  

Why do you suggest a semi synth, and where did you hear about the Mobil1 breaking down?

That kinda goes against what i have read:confused:

As for Mobil 1..it is a very good oil but is not good for the turbo cars. It breaks down too rapidly. You will have to do oil changes every 3000 kms.

A semi synthetic 10w30/10w40/15w40 would be perfect for 32 and 33 skylines.

Try not to go lower than a 10 though as a 5w or 0w is too thin and allows more wear when the engine is cold.

Castrol and Penrite are really your best choices with oil in general.

Mobil 1 is a good oil. Nice and thin, good sheer strength and made from the good stuff from the beginning (unlike Castrol)

The only down side of it is the high viscosity range which is a bad thing.

Its best to try and keep the viscosity as close as possible i.e 10w40.

Nissan state a 7.5w30 oil to be used in the RB's due to bearing clearances etc. If you go thicker then you are sacrificing oil flow which is used to cool the bearings. This is critical.

Generally a thicker oil is used to bandaid up overheating oil.

Use a good oil cooler and there is no reason why you couldn't use a 10w30 or 10w40 under race conditions.

An oil being too thin 5w or 10w is a load of junk, wear has everything to do with shear strength. :rolleyes:

As my new motor is blueprinted I have found with the running in oil 20w50 Penrite oil pressure was always through the roof.

Once I dropped to the Motul 10w30 it pulled back in line.

As pressure increases, oil volume flow decreases.

Not a good thing I would think.

On start up you are better off with a thin oil. The only constriant is you want to try and keep the vis range close together hence why it is often better to go for a 10w40 than a 0w or 5w-40.

I've done a bit of reading over on bobistheoilguy, this is the way I understand it. :P

Amsoil is one of the best oils along with their oil filters under race conditions. :)

For street duty's I would look at PureONE purulator oil filter due to its high particle filtration. (10microns vs Amsoils 16-17microns) The only down side is it restricts oil flow which is bad under race conditions.

Amsoil has one of the lowest filtration particle size vs flow.

Thats my thoughts. :)

  • 3 weeks later...

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