Jump to content
SAU Community

Aftermarket Steering Wheels


Recommended Posts

That's the steering angle sensor. This tells the hicas where the steering wheel is pointed.Whithout it, it thinks there's a big problem.

Cheers!

Humbla.

thought so, thanks man, but the funny thing is, i put my original wheel back on with this sensor aswell and the light still comes on after about 5-7 mins highway driving, also my indicators dont self-cancel anymore when i go around corners... not even when i turn the wheel full lock...

whats happeneing....?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beef you need to make 100% sure the wheel is on sraight. Easiest way is to drive along for say 10m without touching the wheel, then put it on straight for that position, should then be straight. There something like 50 positions you can put the wheel on so 1 tooth left or right doesn't look like much but is enough to confuse hicas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have you tried resetting the ecu by unplug the battery for a few minutes? but will lose all setting on radio and clock.

hi, im interested in this HICAS light as to what it does ? my came on the other day when i was driving, but then went away after i stiched iginition off and on again ??? :sorcerer:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you still having this problem?

Before you bolt your original steering wheel or aftermarket boss kit on, you must make sure the "clock spring" is in the right positon

The is the item with the yellow stick on it

If you read it, it tells you to turn to full lock (either clockwise or anti clockwise, can not remember) and then come back 2 1/2 turns. On the clock spring it has a locating pin that fits to the back of the steering wheel or boss kit and also there is a alignment arrow on the side aswell.

If you do not line this up correctly, the hicas light comes on after 5-10 mins of driving.

You can normally get the non airbag, but with hicas compartable boss kit form Autobarn for approx $70-80

If you had a airbag, you need to get a different boss kit and they cost approx $200-250. UAS or Advan sell these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...