Car Stalling And Won't Idle

[AdamsR33]

Gidday,

I have a problem with my car, I've noticed at wakie and at EC when i've done a session or two the car won't idle, and when i try to start it it is hard , i most times have to play with the accel pedal to get it to start. but when its just around the street with normal driving its fine!, except saturday when it was a scorcher!! it started popping in the exhaust and wouldn't idle at all, later that night it started straight away and ran fine again. I have recently put in a new fuel pump, FMIC splitfire coils and new plugs. boost is set at 9psi. Stock ECU

Thanks Adam.

[700HP-GTR33]

Hello there,

Have you got the cover on the coils on?

And if not, does the ignitor pack have an earth and good airflow to cool it down.

Also what people forget to do when starting a hot car is to step on the gas pedal as you turn the key.

This is not good for when the engine is cold but is a manufacturers recommendation when hot.

Your spark plugs also could be getting a bit warm with track use and this can also cause your problem.

What heat range are they?

Cheers

Tekin

[AdamsR33]

Hello there,

Have you got the cover on the coils on?

And if not, does the ignitor pack have an earth and good airflow to cool it down.

Also what people forget to do when starting a hot car is to step on the gas pedal as you turn the key.

This is not good for when the engine is cold but is a manufacturers recommendation when hot.

Your spark plugs also could be getting a bit warm with track use and this can also cause your problem.

What heat range are they?

Cheers

Tekin

Mate its a series 2 so no igniter pack on coil cover.

My car at Eastern Creek, coil cover was off, coil packs were standard plugs were NGK copper heat range 6

Yesterday when driving normally but stinking hot day, coil cover was on, coilpacks are now brand new, changed from standards this very morning, splitfires and plugs are NGK iridiums same heat range of 6.

Motor is virtually stock other than FMIC pod coilpacks dump pipe and 3inch exhuast. I'm assuming its something to do with the amount of heat under the bonnet maybe the exhuast manifold heating up and maybe a small hole between the gasket or something or even a hole in a vacuum hose somewhere??? Actually thought i might of left a spark plug loose but i checked them and all were tight and have checked to make sure all vacuum hoses were reconnected.

Although i've been told these wouldn't stop a car from idling maybe just run abit rough.

the AAC and AFM were cleaned a few months ago.

[AdamsR33]

Anyone???

[Faid]

what kind of radiator fan are you using, if you are using the stock item, id say that you got a case of heat soak. id look into some ducting to improove flow through the cooler and the radiator, cuz it looks like ur not getting enough flow through after installing the FMIC.

[Cubes]

Definitely not an easy one nath.

When it stuggles to idle whats the gut feeling? Fuel or ignition?

[Craved]

what fuel pump is it adam?

could be struggling with the high temps from the track work heating up the fuel, and general abient temp changes

[700HP-GTR33]

Was the car dyno tuned on a cold day?

Maybe it's your tune.......

[AdamsR33]

Faid, It did the same thing before the FMIC went in at wakefield. cool overcast day down there.

Radiator fan is stock with shroud, but if this is the case why isn't it a common problem with most R33's then. Temp needle on dash does not move, i know the temp will go up abit but its not overheating. Oil temps are pretty right, normal driving around town between 90-100 and at track went up to 125. didn't get a chance to go any higher and if it did i wouldn't let it anyway.

Fuel pump is a walbro gss342 this wasn't in at wakefield either Chris.

Cubes, my gut feeling says maybe fuel evaporation, but don't know if this can happen in a EFI cars. I know cars that run lean pop in the exhuast too and also no fuel then car won't idle, but again if this is the case why hasn't anyone else with stock car or same mods experience this too...

Also something else too, when it does pop in the exhuast it is quite even, if you know what i mean. The pops are regular, like a beat, in not being sporatic. Although sometimes it only pops once but when this happens the car still idles fine, its only when it starts to pop regularly that it doesn't idle.

Maybe what about a f**ked exhuast valve or something like that???

700hp-GTR, car has standard ECU so no tuning as such, I did get the car checked by my tuner when i first got it, he said it was in very good condition and the k's on the clock were probably correct, when i went to the SAU dyno day at UAS earlier in the yr it made 175rwkw with only the exhuast and stock boost, bloke told me that its was a good strong motor with a good power curve. I have a PFC on the way and was waiting till then to get the thing tuned. I haven't noticed any change in fuel usage since i've had the car.I usaully get between 4-500km's, I know the car runs rich cause i get the black shit alover the back!!! and i can't hide it on a white car. I do change oil every 5-7k's. i aim for 5k but sometimes when time permits its abit more then that, oil is still reasonably clean too. Ohh and filter too. Ohh also when i do get it to start when its doing this thing, it still won't idle at all, i have to keep it reving at no less then 1500rpm to keep it going.

Since i've got the car this is everything i have done to it, and in order of them going in. Car already had 3inch from turbo back exhuast, pod filter.

1. Duel stage boost controller and GFB stealth BOV, this is plumpedback. Umm i was a newbie when i got the BOV, nothing wrong with stock one that i know of. boost controller also, only running stock boost at the moment as i didn't know about R+R when i got this and installed it.

2. New HD extreme clutch with new redline gearoil.

3. New Walbro GSS342 fuel pump

4. New GKtech FMIC kit

5. New Spiltfire coilpacks and NGK Iridium plugs heat range 6

This problem baffles me too, I will be at Oran Park this thursday if anyone is going, i'm sure it will happen there so if any of you are going, come over and have a sniff around for me... please!!!

Ohh also i have done a comp test and the figures ranged from 135-145, although i've since realised i didn't do the test properly, the throttle wasn't wide open and fuel wasn't turn off. this is the thread if you want to have a look.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=130019&hl=

[tridentt150v]

I reckon your car is popping because its missing, then burning the unburnt fuel from the previous cycle. Its got to be the igniter box or even something being heat affected and not advancing the timing or fully advancing the timing.

It's be a good exercise to be there when its happening and then begin unplugging spark plugs etc to isolate the problem.

[Cubes]

I reckon your car is popping because its missing, then burning the unburnt fuel from the previous cycle. Its got to be the igniter box or even something being heat affected and not advancing the timing or fully advancing the timing.

It's be a good exercise to be there when its happening and then begin unplugging spark plugs etc to isolate the problem.

The ignitor box was my thought also but don't the S2's run ignitor on coils? If so then nath has recently dropped in a set of new splitfires so they have been replaced yes?

Not really up to speed with the S2's.

[Kennedy]

I had EXACTLY the same problem till when i had an unsheilded pod. I got a CAI/heat shield box rom mr-crust and it's fine now.

[AdamsR33]

Yes Cubes, S2 has the igniters on the coils, and yes new splitfires went in on saturday morning.

trident, the car isn't missing, going up steep hills in 4th car pulls from 1500-2000rpm all the way to 6000rpm without a miss, and so smooth with new coilpacks too. this was when car was playing up also.

[AdamsR33]

I had EXACTLY the same problem till when i had an unsheilded pod. I got a CAI/heat shield box rom mr-crust and it's fine now.

I have standard airbox and snorkel, i might take it to OP on thursday and change it over when its doing its temper tantrum and see if this fixes it. I do have a shield in place for the pod, but it doesn't cover the top.

Ohh and Kennedy yes i do feel like a jedi knight!!! lol

[AdamsR33]

I reckon your car is popping because its missing, then burning the unburnt fuel from the previous cycle. Its got to be the igniter box or even something being heat affected and not advancing the timing or fully advancing the timing.

It's be a good exercise to be there when its happening and then begin unplugging spark plugs etc to isolate the problem.

Ohh and mate if you can make Oran Park this thursday your are more than welcome to come have a look for me, i'm 100% sure it will do it then.

[Sydneykid]

Try leaving the bonnet open between runs, heat soak is a problem.

cheers

[AdamsR33]

SK, i do, but why am i the only one getting heat soak??? there are a few R33's with similar mods aswell but they don't have this problem

I know its a heat problem, but what/where is the heat affecting it to the point where the car doesn't want to idle at all and makes the exhuast pop???

OZGTR, ABOBOB just to name a few drive their cars alot harder then i drive mine yet they don't seem to have this problem, they do cool down laps and so do i, but what gets me is the driving in hot weather around the streets, where its not driven nowhere near as hard as it is on the track.

[rb20inside]

i dunno man, i'm no expert and i'm just throwing it out there.

but in a mate's ca18 its was missing when hot and would not idle.

it would be ok till it warmed up then it would stall and miss when it reved, etc

we put on bosch remote coil packs/plugs, changed the idle control valve, and a couple of other things.

in the end we changed the stock temp sensor as apparently it affects the timing. fixed it striaght up.

dont know if it works the same on series2 but guess you could try it.

[AdamsR33]

i dunno man, i'm no expert and i'm just throwing it out there.

but in a mate's ca18 its was missing when hot and would not idle.

it would be ok till it warmed up then it would stall and miss when it reved, etc

we put on bosch remote coil packs/plugs, changed the idle control valve, and a couple of other things.

in the end we changed the stock temp sensor as apparently it affects the timing. fixed it striaght up.

dont know if it works the same on series2 but guess you could try it.

Thing is mate its not missing at all, I can drive the car fine all day in traffic with the car at normal operating temps except on really hot days, or at the track. I can rev it all the way to redline without a miss. But atleast its something else i could try, thanks for suggestion.

[Sydneykid]

SK, i do, but why am i the only one getting heat soak??? there are a few R33's with similar mods aswell but they don't have this problem

I know its a heat problem, but what/where is the heat affecting it to the point where the car doesn't want to idle at all and makes the exhuast pop???

OZGTR, ABOBOB just to name a few drive their cars alot harder then i drive mine yet they don't seem to have this problem, they do cool down laps and so do i, but what gets me is the driving in hot weather around the streets, where its not driven nowhere near as it is on the track.

Who says you're the only one? Happens all the time.

Did you refit the anti siphon valve when you fitted the Walbro? It stops the fuel running back to the tank when the engine is off.

Checked the fuel pressure lately?

Lastly the Skyline disease, vacuum hoses and intercooler pipework leaks. When the engine is hot, it is more susceptible to lean start and run issues caused by vacuum leaks. So check all of the hoses and clamps for any CHANCE of a leak.

cheers