Car Stalling And Won't Idle

[AdamsR33]

Who says you're the only one? Happens all the time.

Did you refit the anti siphon valve when you fitted the Walbro? It stops the fuel running back to the tank when the engine is off.

Checked the fuel pressure lately?

Lastly the Skyline disease, vacuum hoses and intercooler pipework leaks. When the engine is hot, it is more susceptible to lean start and run issues caused by vacuum leaks. So check all of the hoses and clamps for any CHANCE of a leak.

cheers

Anti syphon valve??? when i changed the pump i just took off the old one and put new one in its place, didn't see anything resembling a valve... i might not have one, if thats the case it also means the fuel pump has been replaced before i bought the car, where would i get one from?? and where the f**k does it go??? But even if it did syphon back to the tank once it starts pumping it should have enough fuel to idle, shouldn't it?

Fuel pressure, no haven't check it.

Vacuum leaks, i did check but mate i'll check again when the car is doing its thing.

Thought i was the only one cause at the track days i've been to haven't heard anyone asking about this problem, maybe cause i'm the only stupid one that doesn't know!!!

[Craved]

Anti syphon valve??? when i changed the pump i just took off the old one and put new one in its place, didn't see anything resembling a valve... i might not have one, if thats the case it also means the fuel pump has been replaced before i bought the car, where would i get one from?? and where the f**k does it go??? But even if it did syphon back to the tank once it starts pumping it should have enough fuel to idle, shouldn't it?

heat affects the fuel pumps, and they will be hotter without fuel in them, you can buy check valves from motorsport connections in seven hills (behind hungry jacks)

[2gceffy]

my car does this sometimes i found that only at night time tho, il drive then it feels like its dying then it kicks back in. i drove home today with headlights on n it did it turned them off n didnt so dont know whats goin on there.. i figured its my coils but this heat soak sounds like its more onto it

its very annoying and im lost

[Cubes]

2gceffy,

Sounds a little like the issue that I've had.

Mines been on and off for the past 3-4years; since yesterday its now doing all the time.

Almst everything over a period of time has been changed; new z32 afm; r34 gtr injectors from a low km motor that were flow tested recently; it now runs a powerfc; new motor is in. The only thing that hasn't been touched is the fuel pumps. A standard old stock pump that ran out of legs at 150rwkw (over 135,000km's ago mind u) thats being used as a lift pump for the bosh external pump thats 135,000km's old and ~4.5yrs.

Fingers crossed my issue is the fuel pump

[700HP-GTR33]

Gidday,

I have a problem with my car, I've noticed at wakie and at EC when i've done a session or two the car won't idle, and when i try to start it it is hard , i most times have to play with the accel pedal to get it to start. but when its just around the street with normal driving its fine!, except saturday when it was a scorcher!! it started popping in the exhaust and wouldn't idle at all, later that night it started straight away and ran fine again. I have recently put in a new fuel pump, FMIC splitfire coils and new plugs. boost is set at 9psi. Stock ECU

Thanks Adam.

Nath....more than likely your tune is on the Jap fuel with rich burn and lots of high end timing.

When you are on the track are you using Fuel boost additives...this may be your problem.

If the car has been tune in japan....do not thrash it any more untill you get a PFC.

Alot of people ....even me...have made that mistake.

What oil are you using ?

[AdamsR33]

Nath....more than likely your tune is on the Jap fuel with rich burn and lots of high end timing.

When you are on the track are you using Fuel boost additives...this may be your problem.

If the car has been tune in japan....do not thrash it any more untill you get a PFC.

Alot of people ....even me...have made that mistake.

What oil are you using ?

The fuel i use is 98ron, no additives when at the track.

Oil is Shell Helix 5w40 changed every 5000-7000kms, depending on time and laziness.

I've succumbed to the whole heat soak issue, as it only happens when temps are high and engine temps are hotter then normal. I'll look into getting some ducting or even a different radiator. By the way, does anyone know if the alloy radiator from Just Jap is better than the stock radiator??? better in as better cooling.

Thanks for your time 700hp-GTR33, and everyone else for that matter for trying to help with my problem.

[700HP-GTR33]

I like troys idea on making an outside baffle tank that returns the excess oil up top back to the bottom though.

I hate to put restrictors not knowing what they will do in the long run.

Anyway can we all overfill our cars by 1 litre and se if this causes us problem?

This would be a great test.

Next time you are on the track use some boost fuel......this will help.

I should have used it at Heathcote, the car was getting slower and slower as the day went on.

[Link]

OMG mine does this too!!

Its a pretty stock s1 - exhaust and filter are the only mechanical mods

A mate said maybe the engine temp sensor could be to blame - i put new plugs, cleaned my afm and aac valve to try and fix it but no luck

Will check the ignitor pack to see if it has good earth this weekend

Any other suggestions??

[mad082]

is there any way to check the temp sensor?

[Link]

Im not really sure to be honest

Might swap it over with his for a week and see if it does the same

Im even thinking about a vented carbon bonnet now

Its really frustrating on a hot day having to start it at every set of lights then have the car backfiring all the time

[mad082]

i have a thread going where i have similar problems, except mine is only every now and then, not all the time. my car won't idle at times (it hunts) and even on light throttle you can feel it missing hunt. i disconnected my o2 sensor and the problem goes away. hooked it back up last night and went for a drice and it was all good, but on the way to work it played up again. i'm going to put my old o2 sensor back in and see what happens.

[Munkyb0y]

is there any way to check the temp sensor?

here's how you check the temp sensor (courtesy of RB30-POWER). i did this recently.

Two ways you can check it.

Firstly by disconnecting the plug and using a multimeter measure the resistance across the two terminals at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 2.5k ohm

80deg 0.3k ohm

EDIT: i'll just clarify. do this with the engine/ignition off. dead cold is around 20deg - normal running temp is around 80deg. I didnt use the following method.

Second way is to measure the voltage between ecu pin 28 and earth at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 3V

80deg 1V

As long as the test results are somewhere close to the spec it isn't faulty.

Edited October 20, 2006 by Munkyb0y

[AdamsR33]

Im not really sure to be honest

Might swap it over with his for a week and see if it does the same

Im even thinking about a vented carbon bonnet now

Its really frustrating on a hot day having to start it at every set of lights then have the car backfiring all the time

As mine is a S2 i can't blame the igniter pack, so i think the bonnet is a good idea and also cold air induction, if you have a frontmount then you'll have a big hole where your old return pipe used to be, unless you have the FMIC kit that plumps back through the original hole, I'm thinking of getting some ducting from the front under the fog/blinker and up through the hole straight to the pod, also try and box the pod up so its not sucking any hot air from under the bonnet and also staying legal. Don't think it is a faulty temp sensor, as its a common problem with Skylines. You only have to look in this induction thread to see people having this problem.

Barring all that mate there's not much else you can do but live with it, its a fault alot of skylines have apparently. But remember the skyline wasn't designed for Aussie conditions, they're a japanese car and were designed for Japan. At the track i do 2 laps cool down now where i was only doing one, and i leave the turbo timer running for 4mins with the hood up so hot air can escape. Car still is a pain to start but once its going its fine, also once the car starts to pop in the exhuast i'll finish that lap and start my cool down laps.

On the street i have bumped up my idle to 900rpm so it still idles when its playing up although only on about 500rpm, but atleast its running and i don't have to keep starting it.

[Cubes]

I don't believe its a manufacturers fault or all as common as stated.

I believe its a part that has gone dicky due to age (these cars are getting old) and is affected by the heat.

Find the part replace it and all will be sweet again.

[mad082]

I don't believe its a manufacturers fault or all as common as stated.

I believe its a part that has gone dicky due to age (these cars are getting old) and is affected by the heat.

Find the part replace it and all will be sweat again.

the problem is we pretty much have to replace the whole engine, bit by bit until we solve it.

[AdamsR33]

I don't believe its a manufacturers fault or all as common as stated.

I believe its a part that has gone dicky due to age (these cars are getting old) and is affected by the heat.

Find the part replace it and all will be sweat again.

What part, thats what everyone has been asking and all we get is "its heat soak, common problem" You only have to look in this thread alone to see that answer. And i believe SK over anyone as we know his knowledge of these cars is second to none.

Would love to fix it but if no-one knows which part or where to look then i ain't gonna spend hundreds of $$$ for a mechnic to try and find it.

You yourself said you've changed just about everything except fuel pumps, i have changed mine and the problem is still there, so what am i suppose to change everything too just to hope i find it... As i said i think its a common problem with skylines, some get it worse than others, but until someone says yep i found the problem and this is what it is... i'll just keep on believing SK.

[Link]

i have a thread going where i have similar problems, except mine is only every now and then, not all the time. my car won't idle at times (it hunts) and even on light throttle you can feel it missing hunt. i disconnected my o2 sensor and the problem goes away. hooked it back up last night and went for a drice and it was all good, but on the way to work it played up again. i'm going to put my old o2 sensor back in and see what happens.

Yeah mine isnt all the time either

I wonder if an aftermarket computer would help with the heat?

The way i see it is that the car heats up on a HOT day, engine temp sensor is faulty and gives wrong temp, ignition timing retards way too much and we get the problem that we have - i could be wrong here but thats what i am led to believe

[mad082]

my problem isn't just when the car is hot though. it did it after driving for about 1km on my way to work.

and it wasn't hot here this morning.

Edited October 20, 2006 by mad082

[AdamsR33]

Yeah mine isnt all the time either

I wonder if an aftermarket computer would help with the heat?

The way i see it is that the car heats up on a HOT day, engine temp sensor is faulty and gives wrong temp, ignition timing retards way too much and we get the problem that we have - i could be wrong here but thats what i am led to believe

Mate check it and let us know if its faulty, if its faulty replace it and see if it fixes the problem, i hope to god it does.

Mad082, mate my car doesn't do it all the time either, even now after just driving it around its struggles to idle once i start it again.

[Link]

my problem isn't just when the car is hot though. it did it after driving for about 1km on my way to work.

and it wasn't hot here this morning.

Hmm, something is seriously wrong then

I presume you have tried all the usual diy stuff to try and remedy it??

Checked the voltages to the engine temp sensor?