Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I pose this question to you: If you had a heavy table you had to move - would you push it or pull it ..... would it make any difference? FWD is the pull. RWD is the Push.

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ahh, sorry about that then

So, with a jump in 40KW, on a 200KW engine, they must be running what 3PSI of boost? What did they bolt to it? The SC14 Supercharger?

As for "Tiptronic" how about we say "Slow reacting *manual* driven auto"?

Tiptronic = piece of pooh!

That's a bigger jump than Holden got when they supercharged the old Buick V6 :P. Having driven both a standard V6 and supercharged V6 commodore, I can honestly say the old superchaged commodores monstered the standard V6 in bottom end grunt. And I'd say that'd be the same story with the Toyota - the torque gains (and therefore average power gains) would be far greater than the 40kw peak power figure suggests.

Having said that, I still don't want one (any of them)

I pose this question to you: If you had a heavy table you had to move - would you push it or pull it ..... would it make any difference? FWD is the pull. RWD is the Push.

A big table? I would pull it. Put the big table on wheels? I would push it. So I guess when it comes to cars, I'm a rear drive person, but a front drive person in all other respects of life. A cardigan wearing bogan or something....

I pose this question to you: If you had a heavy table you had to move - would you push it or pull it ..... would it make any difference? FWD is the pull. RWD is the Push.

Poor analogy however it can be applied to fwd or rwd on SAND.

The rear wheel drive on sand: sand pushes up against the front wheels making it harder for the rear wheels to push the car.

A fwd however doesn't have this issue as sand is unable to push up against the front wheels, it simply drives over it, sand hardly pushes up against the rear wheels as they are being dragged rather than pushed in to the sand, they also have less weight over them.

BUT who drives their beloved car on sand 99% of the time. I drive on the road were rwd is a much nicer drive. fwd you have to fight the steering too much not to mention should one hit a pot hole under acceleration.

As for towing - it has traction control and torque .... towing grandmas little caravan shouldnt be much of a problem - anything bigger then most people would go to hilux/prado anyway.

I saw some figures from a performance test towing a standard (1400kg-does that sound right ??) trailer and the Aurion beat the Falcon and Commodire in acceleration and braking - and yeah anything bigger should go on a Prado ;-)

BTW The missus has a towbar on her Corolla Sportivo and it does a 6 x 4 trailer just fine

BTW II - There is no way I'd choose an Aurion over an R-32 either - this is the Skylines forum after all ;-)

well took one of the first to arrive in our yard for a burn today ..... the ABS works very well as i found out from some A-hole that didnt look and just pulled out in front of me!

As for towing - it has traction control and torque .... towing grandmas little caravan shouldnt be much of a problem - anything bigger then most people would go to hilux/prado anyway.

Its a great car to drive for a family sedan has a decent whack of power the gearbox seems nice and smooth. The inside and outside i find a little yawn .... but im sure i'll sell plenty no doubt - already have people from other clubs that know what i do PM'ing me really interested in buying one.

Ever seen the remains of a FWD, towing a "small" caravan and having it hit with a slight cross wind. It ain't pretty. RWD is the better way to tow.

As to moving huge large "things" why wouldn't large tip trucks etc used in mines be FWD instead of RWD if it were better?

Jump on a hill (wet grass does it easier) and try to drag your large heavy bin up there, you'll slip so easily. Now try and push it up. Much easier.

I pose this question to you: If you had a heavy table you had to move - would you push it or pull it ..... would it make any difference? FWD is the pull. RWD is the Push.

bad analogy.. the human body is designed to pull more efficiently than to push...

but i agree with what you're getting at, and i have never, and will never own a FWD car

  • 2 months later...
its auto with TRC & VSC - no chirpies :) Doesnt even get sideways.

So it electronically removes the driving experience, and ejaculates boring bland uninspiring pain in to you.

Awesome. Good thing they are so safe though. A heavy, torquey, powerful FWd would look bad if its regular crashes were fatal.

The only reason i would buy a commodore or falcon (it's competitors) is for the engine lay out (north south), it's rwd, and to do cheap skids. :dry:

If i wanted something economical, cheap, reliable, luxurious, and a level of exclusivity, i''d keep my 10's of thousands of dollars of depreciation, and get; cresta, cressida, celsior, chaser, mark II, Tourer, Cima, Cefiro, Gloria, Leopard, Soarer, etc, which are still a solid 20 years ahead of there aussie counterparts, meaning a 10y.o. Cima is light years ahead of falcodoores.

Edited by Mulkers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to update. I ended up removing it and found out that it's dead. The car seems to run better than it did, although I haven't driven it hard yet. Literally just a flow restriction.
    • Sounds like the rack seals blew.
    • ^ This is all good advice. I can imagine that there's some passive components in the HVAC controller that run that PWM output that could die, or suffer bad solder joints. It can be worth opening it up, taking a schmooze around looking for swollen electro caps, evidence of liquid escape anywhere, tracks that have been hot, lifted, cracked, etc. A DMM might not be suitable for seeing if the PWM output is pulsing. Might be too fast and too low voltage for a DMM to keep up. An analogue voltmeter might give a better hope. I use a handheld oscilloscope (<$100 from Aliexpress if you want something cheap). A DMM might see the voltage across the motor flicker. Otherwise, as above. If you can successfully see PWM action, then the control side should be good. If you can't see it with what you have, you might need to step up the instrumentation used, as above. Beyond that, and dbm7's advice on testing the motor directly, you're down to looking for broken wires, corroded connector pins, etc.
    • So Thanks for the comments etc. To follow up on this, we went down the path of fitting a divider down the middle of the external pipe that was added to the exhaust manifold and the divider went from very close to the external wastegate all the way up to the "V" part where the pipes from each side of the manifold joined. After this modification it was finally in a position to do the dyno-tune with some degree of success. Top end power was down about 10kw (250rwkw down to 240rwkw) I believe from previous but it seems to be more responsive lower down and at least it is now driveable and fun and back on the road to be enjoyed. Apparently the timing couldn't be run the same as it was running into knock and boost was down about 1psi. For all we know this could have been from the fuel being a bit older, or perhaps some slight complication from the new head gasket as we didn't have compression figures from before that mod to compare. I'm no mechanic and this is second hand info but I just wanted to follow-up to those that commented or read the original post with interest. After so many months of stuffing around this is a big win. The interesting part was most of the info around this was gained from information around Barra motors and not GTR as the manifold setup on the Barra with single turbo was more similar.  Thanks for those that helped with info. Regards Rob 
    • G'day ... first up, I very much doubt that's a resistor network (as used also for this job), but the part# looks right. The description of 'power module assembly' looks to be nissanese for 'PWM driven, ground switched, DC motor speed controller'.... the circuit in the schematic kinda infers that's the case... ...with the transistor symbol appearing in the unit described here as 'Fan Control Amp(lifier)'....being driven by pin20 on the HVAC unit,  and a feedback signal on pin19 from the motor negative terminal for some reason (might be motor fault detection, maybe they detect commutator switching to determine motor revs as well, I dunno)... but if they are  counting commutator spikes, a bad segment (or really worn brushes) will throw a spanner in the works... The motor itself will as said be brushed DC with segmented commutator, rated at 12VDC nominally ~ now-a-days I just unplug them, determine the positive wire, and hook them up to a variable power supply and find out how much current they draw, if they work etc etc ...you can also check for bad segments...ie; set the power supply up to feed 1volt @ 2amp max, then watch the wattage count as you slowly rotate the fan blower motor through a complete revolution ; any bad/dead segments will be clearly evident...some folks would just say determine the positive wire, and feed it battery voltage, and if fan spin, you've got a win...<grin>... well, at least that infers it should do something when plugged back in, and the HVAC unit commands it to run... and if it doesn't, you suspect the module, but you should check the PWM signal on pin20 is actually present, and if it is, blame the module ...  
×
×
  • Create New...