Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone, thanks for your help about the timing belt ! it was snapped and we replced it only to find the car still running like shit ! have since ripped the head off, the pistons are fine but 2 vales are bent, we are wondering where to get them from in perth if possible? there is nowhere up here that will touch it. After we get them a mechanic up here can put them in ! has anyone bought any from perth, we can only find a place in new south wales that sell them seperately for $60 each??

any ideas also on a head gasket under $400 would be great too!!

cheers guys!

( and the reason is we were living in augusta working out of geraldton, now we are living in gero but augusta is home town )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139124-new-valves-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Have you tried nissan ?

I had to go though the same thing, I went to my local nissan and they didn't want to help me saying they couldn't find the part numbers. So I rang around and found these blokes

Metro nissan

this is the email for their spares dept.

[email protected]

They're located in brisbane but were willing to send . I just got

these part numbers of them and got them through my local dealer.

INLET VALVE.............13201-08U02

VRS SET .............11042-17U27

the valves cost me $22 ea

and the VRS was $280

Hope this helps

if you bent valves, you may need to replace valve stem seals and valve guides, reface the valves. skim the head (cos its alloy) etc

If you are willing to send them to perth, I can highly recommend Heinz engineering - do excellent work (and get em to give a port whilst they have em)

good luck

hey, thanks

we took your advice and took the part numbers to our nissan dealer, they had to take down our compliance plates and vin and engine numbers and email them to nsw who emailed them to japan to get the part number for the exhaust valves, head gasket, exhaust gasket and valve stem seals!

valves are $25 each ( 4 needed)

head gasket $106

exhaust gasket $98

and each stem seal is $12.50 ! ( x 24)

and the mechanic is charging $390 to shave head clean and check all valves and whatever else he does and then put all the new valves and seals back in ! then we bring it home and put it all back together and it goes like a beasto! (were hoping) and then we have to sell it cos were expecting a little girl at the end of Feb! prams and bub wont fit in fast car! rod is spewin but hes way excited about bubs so it doesnt matter (new stage in life coming right up)! commodore or pajero, here we come !

a big job ! parts are coming from over from over east should be here tuesday! will let ya's know !

thanks for your help, woulda been in tha shit if u hadnt of given us the numbers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
×
×
  • Create New...