Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so if I'm reading correctly too much air ramed in is not doing you any good.

I setup a box over the pod and AFM and took away the stock intake. I used a 3" pipe from the grill which comes in under the pod - using the stock IC hole..I havn't noticed any issues... I would assume this setup is basically the same as stock with more air and a more direct flow into the CAI area however the differnece is that its not in direct airflow at the bar...yet I would assume the 3" pipe would allow a lot of air to get in...maybe its enough of a baffle to avoid the issues being discovered.

Its not totally sealed...it has gaps on the sides..I never worried as I assumed so much air was getting in there it would keep away the hot engine air...after all that was the aim of the box...I wont bother to seal it up perfectly then

Maybe you don't need such a good flowing filter under such circumstances...as you have so much air its not really a flow issue. I have been using a UniFilter which has less flow than the pod mentioned but filters much better...just another thing to consider IMO...

Id say, its not so much that air being rammed into a inlet system is bad, its just, the engine as a complete unit inside the car, was tuned on a dyno with a certain pressure in front of the turbo mouth, at a certain altitude, with certain fuel etc… so EVER changing those parameters is going funk with things; someone here actually measured the difference in AFM outputs with the engine off, rolling down the road! - gonads of tungsten. You’d think if you TUNED the car with that extra pressure it would be fine. Hahah how bout a MAP sensor near the AFM to trim output as pressure goes up? Or directly trim the AFM output voltage as wheel speed sensor output rises lol. Wait, that might not be so hard, don’t stock ECU’s register relative pressure / altitude every time you start your car to compensate? Hrmmm.

Make me wonder how other groups of people have gotten around the issue. Ninja 500’s with those ram air snorkels at the front, GTHO’s with “shakers”. Hrm maybe carbs aren’t effected soo much, as fuel delivery is based on air speed over a venturi; with the engine only swallowing a certain amount of air. Wonder if a jet engine gets this compressor reversion… jk

Troy a slightly unsealed box would probably suit best, biggest disadvantage being some warm air creep into it, when the vehicles still, hrmm.

Wooah, sorry, mental gibberish, too much strong coffee!

- Michael

Well Said GeeTR

Maybe just a aluminium cover for the front bar with holes drilled in it to restrict the air flow so it does not ram air into the AFM.

That might be the go...

I'd be more worried about the fundamentals...

filtering of air with the filter hanging directly in the duct?

how well do pod filters really work?

i personally wouldn't want to risk my motor by ingesting more particles that strictly necessary... plus by 'boxing' up the duct, how is it any more effective than boxing up the filter in the engine bay?

plus, if you're sitting in traffic, the 'hot' engine air would be so quickly purged with a ducted box in the engine bay anyway.

you might make 2kw more.

Well Said GeeTR

Maybe just a aluminum cover for the front bar with holes drilled in it to restrict the air flow so it does not ram air into the AFM.

That might be the go...

i personally wouldn't want to risk my motor by ingesting more particles that strictly necessary... plus by 'boxing' up the duct, how is it any more effective than boxing up the filter in the engine bay?

plus, if you're sitting in traffic, the 'hot' engine air would be so quickly purged with a ducted box in the engine bay anyway.

you might make 2kw more.

Thanks Guilt-Toy.

Plate with holes yah, but then at low vehicles speeds, you’ve lost a lot of the benefit hrmm *ponders*

Ronin - true, having more air flow around the filter would theoretically mean its going to see more dirty air… or does it.

A engine bay exposed filter would have a large amount of air around it as well i woulda thought. Through the front bars largest opening, between headlights, through the radiator, off the firewall, then prolly straight down underneath the car… “Would” a boxed, and ducted pod see more air flow then a pod exposed in the engine bay at 100km/h? Dunno

“Boxing up the Duct” > I think there’s a little confusion as well. I’m talking about boxing the filters in a GTR engine bay, so from the passenger strut tower all the way forward to where the charcoal canister is (was)

Put a 4” hole ( where the battery tray is on the other side.. but of course, we are talking the passenger side here) that would be big enough to force most of the air through the stock bar vent, into that boxed area.

Guilt-Toy, i belive is moving the actual filter to the front bar.

I’m thinking I can remove some of this heat soak, you mention, by having the box sealed 100% and high density foaming every surface inside. Moot maybe, but I still wonder, when I hold a 60 degree coffee in a cup made from 3-4mm of polystyrene.

Please don’t misjudge my enthusiasm, I think its documented, and fairly common sense how to get around the problem, tojust make it simply "work" I’m just tongue in cheek interested in how one would make the perfect setup if one had time :D

- M

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
×
×
  • Create New...