Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just put the lightweight shockproof redline oil into my gearbox today. Now I can easily change to 2nd gear when the car is cold. But, I feel crunches for 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, even when the car is warm. I think that it's worser than before. The crunches is absolutly noticeable.

The old oil that drain out from the gearbox is something like auto transmission oil.

What happen to my gearbox that react with the redline oil like this? any ideas?

:shake:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13926-i-feel-worser-with-redline-oil-why/
Share on other sites

Give it an easy 1000km+ before you make up your final decision on the Redline Oil.

For the first few days I was like "mannn i paid $100 for this stuff".... but now 5000+ km on and its the best $100 I've spent on my car.

yeah give it a good 1000km or so.

i used to get crunches into 2nd, they went away after about a week of driving after putting in lightweight shockproof. then about a month later, shifts became nice and easy, i have a short shift kit and shifts used to be really tight, too tight, now its just nice.

Yes, maybe the clutch adjustment problem. Everytime when I change gears, I will depress the clutch pedal all the way down. But, I only need to release it a little bit and the clutch start to engage.(car start to move)

And I found that the clutch fluid level is in the middle of the "max" and "min" mark. Should I put more clutch fluid in it? And what sort of fluid should I use to top up? Can it mix with different brands?

Or should I change all the fluid? if so, how to do it?

Thanks!

What I tend to do as a standard to my car is that " If the item and or fliud is unknown best to change it with a known item."

This way I am able to control what goes into the car and not to worry anymore. In the case of clutch and brake fliud fresh is best naturally. If the fluid has been sitting around in the garage or in a car for a few years they tend to absorb water leading to corrosion in the lines down the track.

MoonButt

  • 1 month later...

Hmm, perhaps you should have used Redline MTL or MT90. They are the ones that were designed from the start to give you better shifting, not Shockproof (even tho it does a good job too).

If it was ATF, it does give good shifting being really a hell thin viscocity, but it ****s up your box pretty badly after a while, because ATF does not contain the proper extreme additive protection that gears require.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
×
×
  • Create New...