Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i just want to find out from you guys who have the same car (and only you please) with the standard pump, how long it primes for in the morning or after many hours of not running. If you don't start the engine when the ignition switch is turned to 'ON' how long do you hear the pump prime for? Is it very loud? And lastly do you ever hear the same prime noise for a very short time (1 second) during prolonged idling? ... memory this too is only after the first start in the morning or after many hours as previously mentioned.

Many thanks,

Deren

Yeah cheers for that mate. How about the prime during idle?

BTW just realised your after a nissan boot badge, i dont think i will be using mine anymore so its yours if you take me off your bad trades lol!

Edited by Godzilla32
Hey guys i just want to find out from you guys who have the same car (and only you please) with the standard pump, how long it primes for in the morning or after many hours of not running. If you don't start the engine when the ignition switch is turned to 'ON' how long do you hear the pump prime for? Is it very loud? And lastly do you ever hear the same prime noise for a very short time (1 second) during prolonged idling? ... memory this too is only after the first start in the morning or after many hours as previously mentioned.

Many thanks,

Deren

The sound came on due to lack of lubrication in the fuel pump, you can either put Redline SI-1 in your petrol tank or buy some ashless motorbike 2T, added 50-100ml and it will do the trick.

Edited by Trex101

Not on the GTR. I just cleaned the TB on my Mazda's KG 2.5L V6 and it ran like crap quite some time... next time I wont be lazy and I'll take the TB off rather than just spray all that carby cleaner down its neck :)

Is it a tough job? I'm sorry about dragging things off-topic, but my plan is to clean the IAC, clean the TB and then if it is still high I'll adjust the trim pot on the ECU. I'm pretty sure it had an aftermarket ECU removed prior to export, so the problem could be there...?

Dont clean the throttle bodies, It wont make it any lower, only higher, the more you clean from around the butterflies the more air gets thru when they are supposed to be closed - Hence high idle. Prolly the idle control valve getting stuck. Good place to start anyhow :laugh:

Dont clean the throttle bodies, It wont make it any lower, only higher, the more you clean from around the butterflies the more air gets thru when they are supposed to be closed - Hence high idle. Prolly the idle control valve getting stuck. Good place to start anyhow :)

Very good point dude! Cheers

Thanks guys. Sounds like i have no problem then :)

Its not the attesa pump. There would be no need for it to operate at idle. Only works when you are locking up the clutch packs in the transfer case to provide front torque.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...