Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Grab a GCG Highflow for that sort of power.

I think SydneyKids group buy for $1750 or there abouts is still running.

The GCG Highflows bolt straight up with no more to spend.

Buy something that doesn't bolt up and your up for another $200-$300 worth in sorting out silicon hoses and water/oil lines not to mention another $300 odd for a custom dump pipe.

oh yeh not bad... wat other turbos would you reccomend for 250-260kw?

GARRET 3040 DIRECT BOLT ON THE STANARD MANIFOLD GOOD FOR ABOUT 250 TO 260 RWKW I HAD ONE ON MY RB25 IT MADE 255RWKW ON 18 PSI

Edited by blitzxtr
GARRET 3040 DIRECT BOLT ON THE STANARD MANIFOLD GOOD FOR ABOUT 250 TO 260 RWKW I HAD ONE ON MY RB25 IT MADE 255RWKW ON 18 PSI

Why would you want all that compressor flow when the hot side is unable to support it. Your trading nothing for............... lag. :laugh:

Why would you want all that compressor flow when the hot side is unable to support it. Your trading nothing for............... lag. :laugh:

What do you mean by unable to support it & lag there was not much lag full boost by 3500 GO BACK TO YOUR DESK PROFESSOR & STAY OUT OF THE GARAGE

Edited by blitzxtr

lmao mr make full boost by 3500rpm keyboard warrior. :D

So your telling me the GT3040 .63 hot side will make complete use of the compressors air flow ability. hrmm why is it Garrett didnt release such a combination......

Its not just lag its also response that will be affected by running a large compressor.

For the power this blokes after a GT3071r will be perfectly fine, offer better response than the GT3040 and still make the power he's after.

I've seen a GT2871r make 240rwkw with stock like spool on an rb25. I'll try to dig up the dyno sheet from the dyno day.

My opinion only (shared by most of the production engineers at Garrett in Torrence California) .

The GT3040R has too large in diametre a compressor for the GT30 turbine , it struggles to produce enough turbine shaft power to drive a high capacity compressor ie with that much sail area . This is why HKS only offered their spec GT3040R in the smallest available 82mm GT40 compressor trim - 50T , the Garrett marketed one at 56T is far laggier by comparison .

DO yourself a favour and stay away from the GT2876R , its the same deal only scaled down overall . I will confirm but from memory it uses the hopless TO4S compressor and only T28 flanged exhaust housing are available from Garrett . If it uses the cropped GT30 turbine I suspect it does turbine efficiency will be woeful . Same old story , long shot by Garrett to get more gas flow through the T28 turbine housing family and the concept failed to deliver . Only HKS exhaust housings work with the "cropped" turbine because they are GT30 turbine based castings dimensionally and have the right nozzle design .

Back in five .

Danger Will Robinson - avoid this lump . The dog turbo uses a 48 trim T04S compressor in large bulky heavy TO4S comp cover .

The turbine is not the cropped GT30 turbine but the normal high performance GT28 turbine .

I reckon T28 flanged anything is pointless for Skylines that use the T3 mounting flange on their exhaust manifolds . The real GT3071R , and no not the GT3071R WG version , should work well . Garrett now sells T3 flanged integral wastegate exhaust housings so they will physically bolt to the std exhaust manifold - provided the compressor cover clears it .

People have found the GT3076R and HKS GT3037 56T (same centre section and wheels) a little laggy on street cars , HKS also does a 52 comp trim version but they're thin on the ground in Aus .

The real GT3071R (insist on cartridge or CHRA no 700177-0023) is probably the best compromise unless you can afford exotics such as HKS brands .

You can find its details and pics at ATP Turbos web site .

Cheers A .

So would that turbo(gt3071r) be the next step up from the GCG hi-flow?

And having bought it, how much extra would it cost to assemble all the parts to bolt it up on the weekend?Surely someone must make a complete package or at least a one stop shop where I could buy everything for a reasonable price.

People do tend to push a bee's dick more out of them than the GCG highflows.... But they do cost a little more to get on the car.

No packages are available that I know of... Simply buy the turbo; suitable water/oil lines bolt it on and then take it to an exh. shop to have a dump pipe made up. Or.. Machine up your Skyline turbine housing to suit; by this time the machining costs even out with the costs of a new dump pipe. I know what I'd rather; a new dump pipe with the correct unmolested turbine housing.

What about sticking with my hi-flow and adding a vg30 exhaust housing? Though I must admit the ability of the wastegate to control boost would worry me.Perhaps a slightly bigger ,say 1mm wastegate would help.Enough to flow 240kws at 17lbs.

What do you mean by unable to support it & lag there was not much lag full boost by 3500 GO BACK TO YOUR DESK PROFESSOR & STAY OUT OF THE GARAGE

What gear?

Street or dyno loaded?

There is a key difference there, its also on/off throttle response that is just as crucial as peak power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...