Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ladz, ever since i put my aftermarket wheel on with a HICAS boss kit the warning light has been coming on after about 8 mins of highway driving..

i had the Wheels aligned today and the steering wheel is on PERFECTLY STRAIGHT... i also had some nissan mechanics look at it and check it over and its all A OK. they also ran a diagnostic with a result of NO FAULTS

but the bloody light still comes on... and it drives perfectly..

how can i stop the light from coming on, its very worrying to see it on when i drive, but i know nothing is wrong.

There is a fuse box in the boot with Hicas on one of the fuses... what happens if i simply remove this?

what other way can i stop this bloody light from coming on when nothing is wrong

Drill a small hole in teh dash and unscrew or break the bulb?

i know that sounds silly but i dont want to see the bloody thing, its annoying... especially when i know everything is fine..

Beef

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139398-hicas-warning-light/
Share on other sites

First remove the gauge surround then remove the actual guages and all you have to do is find the right bulb and twist it 90 degrees then pull it out.However i wouldnt rest till i found the reason for the bulb being on. Has to be a cause. Mine does the same however i havent driven the car for over 12 months so im yet to fix it. I have done the same as far as the boss kit goes. The workshop manual outlines the diagnostic procedure for HICAS. Dont trust anyone, thats my motto..

Deren you've probably got the wrong boss kit. There are two for the R32, ON-110 and ON-115. One is for early model cars like ours (pretty sure it is the ON-110) and the other is for late 92-onwards (or something like that) and says SUPERHICAS on the side of the box. The lugs are in different places. I think ours is 2 and 7 o clock, later models were 12 and 6. Might be the other way around, haven't had the wheel off in a while.

And for the other guys, Beef said he is using a boss kit, not a HICAS lock bar. I think we all get the big difference. Using a boss kit shouldn't mean taking out the HICAS globe. Beef you may also be using the wrong boss.

Hmm hope not as i doubt they would exchange it over 12 months later lol...Thanks for that though Mark. Could you take a look at your to tell me which I should have? Only if its not too much hassle to find out.. Might try google now, see if there is a HKB site

on r32 its the green one with the white trace wire. bottom left hand corner of the smaller of the 2 wiring looms on the hicas computer.

dunno on R33, but get your hicas computer, pull the wiring out and then use a short piece of wire connecting each pin on the harness to its respective pin on the the computer until you find the one that turns the light on. once you've found it, cut that wire

thats what i did on R32 anyway, dont think it would've changed dramatically for R33

give it a go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is rebuilding it even a thing? Where would the shop find parts for it? I looked at some off these local online stores for my r34 and suprisingly they had brand new aftetmarket ones for $600-800 I think. I guess r32 might be a bit tougher.
    • I remember the days when E85 was priced in according to the $ per km outcome. Sure E85 was about 35% cheaper, but you also lost about 35% range... now it's fked..
    • They do. The pale yellow translucent ones from Japan were .... I dunno. Useless? Whiteline and SuperPro are probably fairly similar. There's bound to be a range of different hardnesses amongst the dozens of options on the market. The simple fact is that the pineapples don't get up inside the bush at all. They just sort of exist in the space between the washer/bracket and the subframe's bush outer tube, and...exert a bit of force between them? Or something like that. I'm sure that with enough provocation, they will simply allow one to move wrt the other.
    • I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.
    • Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it.  Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling.   Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though.  Found this an interesting watch.    
×
×
  • Create New...