Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Warning Light


Beef
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey ladz, ever since i put my aftermarket wheel on with a HICAS boss kit the warning light has been coming on after about 8 mins of highway driving..

i had the Wheels aligned today and the steering wheel is on PERFECTLY STRAIGHT... i also had some nissan mechanics look at it and check it over and its all A OK. they also ran a diagnostic with a result of NO FAULTS

but the bloody light still comes on... and it drives perfectly..

how can i stop the light from coming on, its very worrying to see it on when i drive, but i know nothing is wrong.

There is a fuse box in the boot with Hicas on one of the fuses... what happens if i simply remove this?

what other way can i stop this bloody light from coming on when nothing is wrong

Drill a small hole in teh dash and unscrew or break the bulb?

i know that sounds silly but i dont want to see the bloody thing, its annoying... especially when i know everything is fine..

Beef

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didnt know that you could reach it with your hands. The way I would do it is simply remove the speedo and locate the hicas light blub on the back then its just a matter of unplugging the blub.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First remove the gauge surround then remove the actual guages and all you have to do is find the right bulb and twist it 90 degrees then pull it out.However i wouldnt rest till i found the reason for the bulb being on. Has to be a cause. Mine does the same however i havent driven the car for over 12 months so im yet to fix it. I have done the same as far as the boss kit goes. The workshop manual outlines the diagnostic procedure for HICAS. Dont trust anyone, thats my motto..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Deren you've probably got the wrong boss kit. There are two for the R32, ON-110 and ON-115. One is for early model cars like ours (pretty sure it is the ON-110) and the other is for late 92-onwards (or something like that) and says SUPERHICAS on the side of the box. The lugs are in different places. I think ours is 2 and 7 o clock, later models were 12 and 6. Might be the other way around, haven't had the wheel off in a while.

And for the other guys, Beef said he is using a boss kit, not a HICAS lock bar. I think we all get the big difference. Using a boss kit shouldn't mean taking out the HICAS globe. Beef you may also be using the wrong boss.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm hope not as i doubt they would exchange it over 12 months later lol...Thanks for that though Mark. Could you take a look at your to tell me which I should have? Only if its not too much hassle to find out.. Might try google now, see if there is a HKB site

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on r32 its the green one with the white trace wire. bottom left hand corner of the smaller of the 2 wiring looms on the hicas computer.

dunno on R33, but get your hicas computer, pull the wiring out and then use a short piece of wire connecting each pin on the harness to its respective pin on the the computer until you find the one that turns the light on. once you've found it, cut that wire

thats what i did on R32 anyway, dont think it would've changed dramatically for R33

give it a go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...