Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guysss

if any one has a problem with there dash lights

i figured out my problem and fixed

after 2 hours of blowing fuses and electric shocks with my cousin.. i figured

wtf... il bypass the switch all togeather and hard wire the wire sto each other

this seemed to work..

but my antena still doesnt work!!!!

could be my head unit me is thinking

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/
Share on other sites

make sure the plug goes behind the deck for the antenna is plug in... if this comes loose then your antenna will not come up..

once this is checked and it is ok, then i beleive the motor in your antenna is stuffed.. happen with me, just replace the antenna dude...might set you back $55 for an auto antenna.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-278408
Share on other sites

PUSHEAD - sorry to say, YOU ARE 100% WRONG.

Even in your thread that refers to preditor666's thread, he clearly states:

" The slashed ones are the stripey ones in the two colours.

Green/red - Power Antenna up/down "

When the radio is turned on, it sends a +12V signal to power antena. This triggers a relay which uses a separate 12V line to power the motor up or down. Ground is via body. If you are using the tape deck or cd player there is no voltage on this wire, thus the antena remains down.

Zdenko - Did your inital problems come about by themselves, or did you install a new head unit (or something else) and then the problems presented themselves?

PS: Please PM me once you have answered the question, so that i can respond, as i may forget to revisit this thread. Also include the thread title.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-279892
Share on other sites

hmmm...don't hard wire stuff! Its a quick and dirty solution, and what happens if you do get a short.. BZZTT who knows what u could blow

Something I discovered last night (after being pulled over by the cops.. oops :).. the tail lights are on the same circuit for the dash lights (speedo, etc). The "tail light" (10A) fuse in the back fusebox is the same circuit for the speedo/tacho, dash lights

Also: many plugs need to be closed or you'll get open circuit and other things attached to the circuit may not work. Disconnect the hazard button plug and you'll notice that your indicators no longer work!! (i discovered this yesterday too... ooops :P but didn't get pulled over for that one)

hehehe: thanx Al :( yup, i think thats pretty much how it all works, so check the separate fuse for the aerial. I think its in the boot fusebox.

The antenna control wire simply is 12v which triggers the motor circuit to go up or down (toggle). Make sure its connected, or otherwise rigged to ACC or connect your own switch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-282961
Share on other sites

lol whats wrong with hard wireing??

lol it works??

nah i think my switch is stuffed

so if any one is recking there skyline

i want ur switch!!

ahah

but yeh the anntenna i was ment o have a loko at that yesterday but ran out of time...

had my gf calling me to pick her up from work!!!

farken chicks

they al hate city driving!

i wish i cold hard wire her off a bridge!~

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-282978
Share on other sites

switch ? hmmm.. Mine doesn't have a switch?? You talking about the instrument cluster or other parts of the dash above the stereo? I know some have a dimmer knob for the instrument lights..mine doesn't look like it ever had one.

a'hrm.. look whos angry at somebody :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-282989
Share on other sites

So is your antenna working know?

Originally posted by predator666

hmmm...don't hard wire stuff! Its a quick and dirty solution, and what happens if you do get a short.. BZZTT who knows what u could blow

Please explain, as i work as a electronic feild technecian and consider soldiering and covering with heat shrink to be the best and safest way to connect wires.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13955-dash-lights/#findComment-283937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...