Jump to content
SAU Community

Cold Start Engine Prob

Andyn

By Andyn,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted

uve got a consult interface right?

datalog from as soon as u start car and post here.

does it make a difference if u allow fuel pump to prime longer (leave car on ign on/reds for a few seconds before cranking)?

and do what i said in previous post

Andyn Community Regular

Andyn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No I don't have a consult interface.

I have reset the ecu and let it go on diagnostic mode, but deciphering the beep codes is difficult.

I tried going to Nissan and their interface supposedly doesn't work with 'imports'.

Wouldnt mind getting my hands on an interface and seeing the log...

UPDATE: Just as an update though - a few days after I cleaned the AAC valve I have noticed the idling has improved. It is sitting around the 1K mark now as opposed to 1.5k.

The only issue now is starting it when cold (it still needs a bit of throttle to get going). I suspect this to be a leak somewhere. Havent had the chance to investigate further.

If anyone has had similar issues and has fixed it feel free to post ur experiences.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...
Bendar Enthusiast

Bendar

Posted
Posted
Bump, any more ideas? I need to get this sorted...

Dragging up an old thread here but I have had the same issue for about 4 years, when I bought the car it was fine then one day it was just really difficult to start. I had the fuel pump checked, AAC valve, Temp sensor, changed ECU's, injectors cleaned, even had a modfied plenum put on there for a while. I'm going back to the thought that it may be my injectors, I have a feeling that they may be leaking from the body of the injector. If it was say the AFM or serious issue with the fuel pump then I would be experiencing issues when the engine is on load or when boost comes on. I have also noticed ever since this issue arose that my fuel economy has gotten really poor, 350km to a tank. The only mods I have are a pod, 3" exhaust and FMIC, so I dont see how that could kill the economy.

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted

my car also struggles to start when cold ever since i changed from the stock fuel pump to a bosch intank item. Even with considerable priming (ignition on for about 5 - 6 seconds) the car cranks and struggles. Once it doesn that it turns over fine. I ve had the fuel pump taken oout and tested and it flows fine. The instal is also fine so i to am scratching my head at this. Basically whats happening is when the car is switched off the fuel lines lose preesure with after market pumps and the fuel drains away. Problem is it doesn't seem to pick up enough even if you prime it to be able to start first go. IT starts fine the second time you go to start it as it has built up some pressure from the first time. I might see if a one way valve of some description will help this problem if i fit it to the fuel line or something.

smiddidR32 Collaborator

smiddidR32

Posted
Posted

funny you started this topic i was about put the same thing up im having the same problem with my 32 i just got it back from graeme west two weeks ago where the problem was ment to be fixed but is still playing up, good to see some different pointers!! mind you its going back in to West this week cheers guys :P

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

This might be a bit off but could your battery be dying or too small as it seems to only be a problem when your cars starting? If your battery cant hold enough charge/supply enough current during the cranking process this would result in the poor/reduced fuel pressure delivery during intitial stages of priming the fuel lines etc.

Check the voltage over the fuel pump when cranking, the fuel pressure and go from there

Sheriff Wan Proficient

Sheriff Wan

Posted
Posted

All good thought lads,

I have a 32 with the same issues however I can count the fuel pump out as I have a brand new one and AFM :)

Something that hasnt been raised yet is the cold start idle valve....

Just a question:

When your cars eventually start do they idle up around 1.5-2k for a minute or so or do they go straight to the 1k or there abouts?

The cold start thing is a mechanism that works like a line that gets blocked once the car is warm. When the car is cold the line is open to give more revs to start the car... when the car is warm the line closes.

When you start the car it should idle high for a little while... when I first bought my car the idle was at about 2k constatntly and it was due to the cold start valve being constantly open making the car think it had just started all the time. When this item is faulty or old as most are the heat sensor no longer works and the valve does not close and bring the idle down. It goes both ways when they are buggered they can be open (high idle all the time) or closed (normal idle all the time causing hard cold starts).

My suggestion is that the cold start thing is constantly closed making the car think it is constantly warm already... and therefore not giving the intial revs to bring the car to life so to speak.

The cold start is located (looking at the car head on) on the left hand side of the engine bay below the intake manifold.

Any thoughts...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Shifting questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I might have to say it.
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Ahh... it's an early RE5R01A box, that means the pinouts I gave are wrong (they were for the RE4R01A 4-speed box)... I'll have to dig around in my docs to see if I've got that schematic (they used the same gearbox plug, with the vacant pin wired to the direct drive clutch solenoid)...prolly hidden away in a supplement somewhere... ...there were 3 variants of the RE5R01A ~ this early schema was what we called the 'dumb' 5 speed ; it's what jatco called a 'medium duty' box, with torque holding up roughly ~200ft/lbs or so, which was good for NA from RB20/25DE and up to around VG30 output spec. With the RB25DET (and VG33/35 mills), the only options they had was the 4-speed 4AX00 box, which had been beefed up to handle the extra torque (primarily for the VG35, but it also suited the RB25DET mill and others)...and the RE4R03 box in large 4WDs a lot of the time... ...the next variant of 5-speed was redesigned, stronger, and 'smart'...first ones had external TCU with internal (on valvebody) Shift Control Unit, pressure switches, and 2 x TSS...and the last ones had internal TCU+SCU setup, with CANbus control etc etc. @DRoc81 On the RHS of the box towards the rear, there should be a stamped silver ID tag -- what's the model number? Oh...and with the early 5-speeds, the torque converter control solenoid assembly should be replaced as well (31940-60X00)...it's a bit Murphy's Law ....if one has failed, bet on the rest not being far behind ...
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely.  I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.    
    • GTSBoy
      rb25 Degreeing cams with hydraulic lifters?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Besides packing it, you can also fill your pump through the oil filter inlet port. After cranking for what felt like an eternity without pressure, i fed a tube in through there and filled it with oil. Cranked for a few seconds after that and had pressure. 
×
×
  • Create New...