Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

iv already tried searching couldnt quiet find what i was looking for..

also the turbos arnt blown, just one of them as some shaft play.

Do you know the age of the N1's

What RPM was boost coming on when they were healthy?

I heard the 32N1's were laggy.

Invest in some new ones, your better off...the price of a rebuild ends up nearly the same as a new set.

Or fix the one with the shaft play only.

If they are ceramic type change them soon .

:laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139639-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-2602921
Share on other sites

Thanks Ivan, you little gimp you :laugh:

Ali - have you read the threads from the link in the second post?

If not, ill list them

Eastern Turbochargers

Rotomaster

ATP

ATS

GCG (syd)

MTQ Engine Systems

Not hard, yellowpages.com.au is a useful source

Personally, i wouldnt use R32 N1's, utterly disgusting turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139639-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-2602937
Share on other sites

Why not ATP - Advanced Turbo Performance here in Melb.?

Near Corner Murrumbeena and Dandenong rd.

Kyp has $50k worth of balancing equipment in house and extensive experience on RB's and Mits.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139639-turbo-rebuilds/#findComment-2602945
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...