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yeah, a mate of mine did his with motor in car, but he swears he'll never do it again.... take that comment how you like.

CHEERS

Thanks. I know it can be done just a right p--ck of a job.

Was quoted $1000-1500 for labour so was going to do it myself. Does any one know how hard it is to take engine out from top as i dont have access to a car hoist only engine crane. Have done this sort of work before but not on a gtr.

dont try it with out a hoist ... you will do your self 2000 dollars worth of mental stress if your not tooled right for the job.... I did it all myself and ended up dragging it to a hoist to finish ....> motor in

I did mine with the engine in - do a search as I posted how to guide some time ago. it is not that difficult, it just takles a little while (I mostly did mine at night after work)

Do you have a copy of the workshop manual? as this makes it easier as well (details the process )

yeah. if there roughly the same size externaly. it should take you about 5 hrs. stubby 13mm spaner is your friend hehe

ive done about 6 in total. kunty job.

ps..its easier to remove the turbos to to the dumps rather then trying to do em in the car :s

yeah. if there roughly the same size externaly. it should take you about 5 hrs. stubby 13mm spaner is your friend hehe

ive done about 6 in total. kunty job.

ps..its easier to remove the turbos to to the dumps rather then trying to do em in the car :s

What is the best way of diong this? Bolt the turbos to the dumps, then bolt the manifolds in then the turbos to the manifolds?

Its an 8 hour job. Its difficult but not impossible with engine in the car. The hardest part from memory was the rear turbo flange nuts. This is where the 13 mm spanner comes into play. I didnt have any spectacular tools at the time but i dare say a stubby spanner as previously mentioned or perhaps a rachet spanner would work wonders. I did it in my garage with no hoist just on stands. Then again i've removed and replaced the plenum and throttles on my engine about 5 times with the engine in the car now too so maybe i've just built up some extra patience..

Yeah do as you just mentioned in that order, best to take a look at the service manual.

Deren

BTW: Dont remove the engine its a big headache. Not worth it just to do the turbos IMO

Edited by Godzilla32

id reccoment to pull the engine out. Have you even seen the spece you need to work in, i get nightmares just seeing where the turbs are located. But then again, if you dont have the right equipment it can be a big PITA. Even so id still say, pull out the engine and do the job poperly.

I did mine with the engine in - do a search as I posted how to guide some time ago. it is not that difficult, it just takles a little while (I mostly did mine at night after work)

Do you have a copy of the workshop manual? as this makes it easier as well (details the process )

Did a search, couldnt find it. Do you remember the title and what section.

Its an 8 hour job. Its difficult but not impossible with engine in the car. The hardest part from memory was the rear turbo flange nuts. This is where the 13 mm spanner comes into play. I didnt have any spectacular tools at the time but i dare say a stubby spanner as previously mentioned or perhaps a rachet spanner would work wonders. I did it in my garage with no hoist just on stands. Then again i've removed and replaced the plenum and throttles on my engine about 5 times with the engine in the car now too so maybe i've just built up some extra patience..

Yeah do as you just mentioned in that order, best to take a look at the service manual.

Deren

BTW: Dont remove the engine its a big headache. Not worth it just to do the turbos IMO

So did you do all the turbo stuff, put turbos in the car, then bolt the manibolds to the head then the turbos to the manifolds? did you take the power steering out first.

So did you do all the turbo stuff, put turbos in the car, then bolt the manibolds to the head then the turbos to the manifolds? did you take the power steering out first.

I attached the dump pipes to the turbos then sat them in the engine bay (as the manual suggests) then bolted on the mannifolds to the head then attach the turbo to the mannifold flange. From memory the power steering can stay there, i may have unbolted the p/s pump and pulled it aside. can't remember just see how you go. If it will make it easier then do it. Honestly though ive done both, removed the engine and removed and replaced the turbos. Engine removal is a big job and will need a hoist + engine crane. On the other hand turbo removal while engine is still in the car is tricky but alot less work. Trust me

Deren

PS: If you need help im in brisbane, if your not call me when you get stuck 0402 829 091

did mine not long ago with engine in.....was a s--t of a job....but then putting back on was easier i didnt have to to use the water lines :D (trust turbos)....from memory took out the rear turbo n manifold out first then the fronts...getting it out was difficult. putting back was in reverse order. Just becareful not to bend your water lines underneath n oil lines for that matter. good luck make sure u have alot of space as well! did mine in single garage on stands. Taking the passenger wheel off made for some space as well when getting underneath. hope it helps.

Has any one installed new turbos in the factory location with the engine in the car? Mine is a 32 gtr.

I swapped the dump pipes not long ago which was a nightmare. Any comments would be great as i got myself some gt 2860r-7s last week.

If you can do dump pipes without removing turbos you should be able to do turbos with engine in the car .

When you strip all the pipes and you have only manifolds and turbos left, the hard work starts . A set of 3/8 sockets extensions and unis are good .

Unbolt the oil and water lines from the turbos ( the 2 banjo bolts from each turbo ), unbolt the front turbo ( bend the locking plates back to undo the 4x13mm nuts ), lower the turbo a little so you can get to the bottom manifold nuts with a 3/8 drive extension, you feed it through the gap between the turbo and the manifold . Carefully move the oil and water lines, bend them low not near the benjo , remove the front manifold then the front turbo with the dump should come out. You don't need to remove the power steer pump but you may remove the oil tank out of the way . Do the same with the rear turbo .

I assume you would have undone the front pipes, the turbo brackets and oil returns from under the car first.

If you don't have a workshop manual download one its good to have in case you get stuck .

The hardest part is when you install the turbos ( in the reverse order of course) to start the oil and water line banjos( rear one is the hardest) thats why its important not to bend the lines very much and not near the banjo bolts .

The job can be done in about 5 hours everything going well and if you are experienced, allow double that for you and after a few skinned fingers and a lot of swearing you will be fine.

A hoist helps so you dont lie on the floor but you can do it without, a magnet is good and make sure you cover all the holes so you don't drop anything in there .

I attached the dump pipes to the turbos then sat them in the engine bay (as the manual suggests) then bolted on the mannifolds to the head then attach the turbo to the mannifold flange. From memory the power steering can stay there, i may have unbolted the p/s pump and pulled it aside. can't remember just see how you go. If it will make it easier then do it. Honestly though ive done both, removed the engine and removed and replaced the turbos. Engine removal is a big job and will need a hoist + engine crane. On the other hand turbo removal while engine is still in the car is tricky but alot less work. Trust me

Deren

PS: If you need help im in brisbane, if your not call me when you get stuck 0402 829 091

Thanks mate for the offer.

i'd reccomend making your own so they will be perfect. buy the teflon inner stainless covered line from earls, get the banjos and any angles you need too. take your old lines in with you so you can get a good idea of the type of fittings you need and the length of line too. it's a good idea to cover them with the flame guard/heat guard stuff too. having flexible lines also makes installing/removing the turbos easier.

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