Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

today i purchased a split front dump pipe from a fellow member and im VERY happy with the product, this post really has no relation to that, except for the fact that i showed my dad and he insisted he could make one with much higher quality welding. He has been a fitter/fabricator/welder and a very good one at that since he was 16, he has been the supervisor on many work sites and used to be in ship building. basically were thinking of making them and selling them at a cheaper price than what you find on the net. The best price i have found for a brand new stainless (not mild steel) mandrel bent 3" split front/dump pipe was $480. I havnt checked about getting them made locally but i will do more research before giong ahead with anything. We would probably sell them for around $400 maybe slightly less depending on time and effort + costs required in making the items. He said he would buy a welder for home and make a jig to do this if there was enough interest. To start off with they would only be for RB20 and RB25 (not NEO) R32, R33 and Stagea. Simply because we only have the one i bought to create a template from.

Basically i just want to know if there would be much interest in a quality hand made item selling for much less than reputable places. we would of course allow anyone to see the product before they bought it and possibly do some dyno testing. also if anyone knows where they can be bought for less please let me know as we want to be as competetive as possible !

I'm hoping this might go ahead as this could be the kick start into my own business which is pretty much my dream :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139768-split-frontdump-pipes/
Share on other sites

where does the wastegate rejoin into the dump/front pipe?

ive learnt that with a dump/front pipe all in one, its best if the wastegate joins as far down the pipe as possible.. generally it joins in just before the bend for best results. :D

Second that, I'm up for testing the dump on my R32 GTR.

I'm also in the process of making quaity 316 stainless steel ex manifolds for GTR's. Better made and improved upon the tomei equivilent. I had a a engineering shop with CNC equip and I designed mine on cad first and use tig. So im in same boat as you. But I will also be testing my product with backup evident in the way of dyno readouts using stock, tomei then my design.

Second that, I'm up for testing the dump on my R32 GTR.

I'm also in the process of making quaity 316 stainless steel ex manifolds for GTR's. Better made and improved upon the tomei equivilent. I had a a engineering shop with CNC equip and I designed mine on cad first and use tig. So im in same boat as you. But I will also be testing my product with backup evident in the way of dyno readouts using stock, tomei then my design.

RB26 is different though right ?

to start off with we'd only be doing RB20/25 :(

would u be making non split ones? (bellmouth) and in mild steel as well?

no as were only interested in doing high quality goods, and these will be at the price of mild steel ones (split i mean) found on the net anyways.

bell mouth mild steel

there ya go :(

eBay has LOADS of them, dirt cheap. China's finest :P

i looked on ebay and couldnt find split stainless ones, were you reffering to the above mentioned mild bell mouths ?

also my experiences with china goods are that while they serve the purpose they arent of a particularly high quality, welding is usually what lets them down, and while it doesnt sound a big deal i can effect air flow inside the pipes.

are the R34 neo ones different...

i didnt think they were?

to be honest im not sure, i cant see why they would be, but i dont know the difference between neo or not, the reason i specified that was because i was told that about the one i bought. if someone could clear that up i would appreciate it :mad:

using a split front/dump pipe over a stock item could pot you up to 30kw ive been told depending on your other mods. if you alre4ady have a cat back and a pod probably less, but with less pressue i would think the throttle would be more responsive and the turbo would spool up a bit quicker, as for being louder im not 100% sure. maybe someone could help out with that ? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...