Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

I have a R33 GTR S3, headlights are Xenon's was wondering how do i change the bulbs, i cant seem to open the lid behind the projectors there some sort of bolt next to the lid stopping it from opening...its some weird key looks slightly like a hex head key....

  • 2 months later...

I used Bambinator's guide and it's worked REALLY well, just need to be careful as the solder likes to fall through the points and you have to pull it apart to get the solder out. Easily changed and no mucking around with new wires. Cheers Bambinator!

There is another way to do this, which may prove better for those with HID lights and don't want them to turn off. It involves a simple modification to the light switch. I don't know if this works on R32s, as I have an R33.

SNIP

There are two copper tracks that you need to bridge with solder - they are marked with red circles on the following images:

gallery_7482_289_10230.jpg

Once done, it will look something like this (excuse my poor soldering technique)

gallery_7482_289_3607.jpg

/SNIP

THANKS for this finally did this morning

very easy but you at least need to know soldering principals

Time: around 45min start - finish

  • 2 weeks later...

I did the soldering mod and worked awesome but I've noticed now that when I go over a bump whether it be really big or just slight my rear wiper will click over once and wipe the window. Still functions normally when I turn it on and off, but it has a mind of its own on bumps, I'm wondering whether I haven't plugged something else back in or whether its related to the poor soldering job I did, I wouldn't imagine so because it's on the other side? Any thoughts??

Cheers.

  • 6 months later...

There is another way to do this, which may prove better for those with HID lights and don't want them to turn off. It involves a simple modification to the light switch. I don't know if this works on R32s, as I have an R33.

Before mod:

Low beam

gallery_7482_289_12606.jpg

Hi beam

gallery_7482_289_10386.jpg

Remove your lights/indicator stalk from the column, and looking at the back, you should see something like this:

gallery_7482_289_31530.jpg

There are two copper tracks that you need to bridge with solder - they are marked with red circles on the following images:

gallery_7482_289_10230.jpg

Once done, it will look something like this (excuse my poor soldering technique)

gallery_7482_289_3607.jpg

Then reinstall into the car. You should now have dual-headlight hi-beam goodness.

gallery_7482_289_5370.jpg

Sorry to liven an old post, but is there any failure stories on this regarding overloading the feed wiring or anything? taken that the feed line is designed to run either high or low, separately? or is there a separate feed for high and low? cheers

  • 1 month later...

^^i tried this mod, although after a week it will stop working, resolder and it will work fine again

although can anyone re explain (pics?) this next method for the 33 im confused

Hay all.

I found the ezyest way to rig up the headlights on r32.

took me the whole of about 15 min.

1. Remove the plastic suround from the steering colum, taking off all 4 pieces give you a bit more room to work.

2. remove the indicator switch completly.

3. Now holding the plug with the 3 small pins to the left/2 Big pins to the right.

You'll find their are 6 wire's in the center rows(2 lots of 3)

4.Simply bridge the bottom wire's with the one's directly above them.

Sorry but I can't remember the colour of the wire's. what I do know is.

The r32 lights work on supplying a earth signal to activate the lights.

They have left and right signal hence the 6 wire's.

2 bottom wire's are earth signal into switch.

2 middle wire's are low beam.

2 top wire's are hi beam.

....I cheated by simply putting some copper wire between the teminals on the inside of the plug. I know this sound's a bit dodgy but remember it's only a earth signal to a relay.

I used the lights for approx 1 hr last night and it was all sweet.

  • 2 months later...
Hay all.

I found the ezyest way to rig up the headlights on r32.

took me the whole of about 15 min.

1. Remove the plastic suround from the steering colum, taking off all 4 pieces give you a bit more room to work.

2. remove the indicator switch completly.

3. Now holding the plug with the 3 small pins to the left/2 Big pins to the right. You'll find their are 6 wire's in the center rows(2 lots of 3)

4.Simply bridge the bottom wire's with the one's directly above them.

Sorry but I can't remember the colour of the wire's. what I do know is.

The r32 lights work on supplying a earth signal to activate the lights.

They have left and right signal hence the 6 wire's.

2 bottom wire's are earth signal into switch.

2 middle wire's are low beam.

2 top wire's are hi beam.

....I cheated by simply putting some copper wire between the teminals on the inside of the plug. I know this sound's a bit dodgy but remember it's only a earth signal to a relay. I used the lights for approx 1 hr last night and it was all sweet.

I've also just done this as per the outline above. Of note, the two Negative Wires (that are referred to as the bottom wires above) are coloured Orange with Blue Stripe and Orange with Black Stripe.

Edited by Ryno
  • 1 year later...

Possibly rewiring my S2 33 headlights next weekend .

I have the main engine bay loom and interior fuse box back to where I cut it adjacent the drivers seat from a wrecker . Basically there are two power feed wires running from the rear fuse box to the headlight combination switch on the steering column . From there two pairs of wires run to RHS and LHS headlights . The earths run back up the loom to flick knows where - haven't had time to follow them out of that spare loom yet .

Everything tells me that R33s have no headlight relays and power is sent from the rear fuse box to the lights via the combination switch . From the body wiring diagrams I've seen it looks like the lights are positive switched and run to ground to complete the circuits .

I think the simplest rewire would be to open the loom adjacent the under bonnet relay box and use the relevant wires to switch new relays with power sourced from the alternator side relay box bolt . Would need a diode to stop the high beam relay/s staying on when switching from high to low .

I know everyone reckons headlights are earth switched but the earths at the lights are black wires with silver bands and they don't go back to the combination switch . To be earth switched the switch would need to be between the lights and body earth ?

A .

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...