Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know where you are coming from, but I think a lot of people buy them just because they have a hand controller (Which I think is just as crap anyway).

Vipec ALL the way. Unless you can edit the factory ECU.

What do you think of nistune Elite?

I've pretty much just bought a new version of the ECR33 Power FC so if anyone is interested in my old one when the new one gets here let me know

There is nothing wrong with it, its just an early version and is a little slower with updating data. So its only a little slow while tuning which isn't a big deal

I just found a good offer on a brand new Power FC

I know where you are coming from, but I think a lot of people buy them just because they have a hand controller (Which I think is just as crap anyway).

Vipec ALL the way. Unless you can edit the factory ECU.

What do you think of nistune Elite?

Nistune are pretty good mate. It all depends on the application. Some people have fairly heavily modified cars so we wouldn't suggest a Nistune to someone with massive cams and huge turbo etc because they don't have as many tuning points as something like a G4 or a V550 so the end result is usually a bitch to drive.

Every car is different so we generally assess them as they come.

I still won't recommend a Microtech to anyone but they do have their place.

I don't want to start an ECU debate because everyone has their favourite for various reasons but at the end of the day it can all come down to a few key things:

1. Does it do what the customer needs it to do and does it do it reliably

2. Does the tuner the customer trusts have experience tuning that ECU

3. Does it fit into the budget requirements

Obviously trading off any of these things means the final result will usually always be less than desirable.

In my experience, the Wolf V550, Autronic and Link G4 are the three best ECUs on the market today (Motec is obviously up there but it falls well away from point #3 for 95% of us)

Vipec automatically tags along with the G4 brand but I think there are still a few differences between the two?

You've pretty much hit the nail on the head. I won't touch a wolf because I simply don't have enough experience with them.

Link G4 and Vipec are identical bar the Software label on startup. Was a tricky move by link to get back into the market.

I love the Vipec and hope they continue to better it. The only disappointment is they let too many bugs come through their QA process. They need to test their firmware more.

Callan, I will ask around, there are plenty of people that ask me where they can get a PowerFC from. How much are you asking for it? Does it have a hand controller? What version is it?

Edited by The Mafia

Oh yeah and Haltech are ok too but I prefer not to use them because they lack a lot of functionality that the others have and even after being told about the problem several times they STILL haven't fixed their coil charge time issues. Once again, oscilloscope print outs were rejected by them.

Then there's the fact you need to buy 40 little boxes to do the same thing as a single G4 or V550. Great marketing though. Best in the industry IMO

I'm not much of a fan of Haltech, especially because of the coil charge time issue.

I think the layout of the software is horrible too - Coming from the IT industry, I can see when something is poorly written.

Even the best Hardware is rendered almost useless is the software is poorly written for it

Not to sure yet going to look around

Power FC + HC, possibly boost control kit if it doesnt fit the new one but 99% sure it is the same connector.

I'll ask around $1000 at the moment, if I discover its worth less I might lower it but there still pretty well in demand and I dont think I'll have any trouble selling it at that price

The ECU case is slightly marked but nothing major and the hand controller is in pretty good condition, only what you'd expect any HC to look like, no major scratcnes or marks

Version? Not sure, think 2.20E but that could be a random version of something else I'm just remembering

Edited by 89CAL

So heres how my Oil cooler turned up:

IMG_3809.jpg

Not real happy and they have sent me a universal Sandwich plate without a thermostat in it when its supposed to be a thermostatic sandwich plate. There opinion of the oil cooler when I sent them a photo was 'it should be O.K' and since I've looked at it they can shave that excuse up there ass. I'm not prepared to risk my engine if it one day decides to spit oil out the tube thats been hit. Pretty poor on their part, was all just chucked in a box and sent over to me with no packing in the box

That's f**ked Cal I would have just bought a Greddy copy 10row cooler off eBay for $100 bucks and bought a genuine Trust thermostat filter housing, braided lines would have ordered from VPW, done. Buying kits are f**ked cause you usually have to cut shit up anyways, every kit I've ever bought I have had to modify In one way or another even the expensive brands like HKS and GReddy. eBay is my best friend lol.

Yeah same Rob I was gonna run a Vipec V44 but I'm gonna upgrade to a V88 to put in the 180sx so when I take for a strap at time attack I have heaps more inputs/outputs fair chance I'll end up running the Dogbox and Ignition cut system out of the R32 drag car when my brother decides to go to a Liberty gearbox and full slicks trying for 7's in the future. Probably buy ECU last after car is complete.

Looks like they sent the wrong kit because of the generic thermostat. So they will be sending me a new kit or giving me my money back. The last email I sent wasn't so harsh but if they come back with a stupid answer they'd better have a language filter on their end

In hindsight, yes I should have just got a sandwich plate and then ebay-ed the rest, but the kit + delivery cost $460 so it was a pretty good price (or so it seemed)

The fact that they werent interested at all in replacing it unless it was in a state where it would leak really pissed me off. That is absoloutly piss poor service. It's their fault its damaged cause they did a shit job of packing it so I shouldnt be paying the price for there mess

No good Cal that's farrked. And to throw it in a box without any packaging is awful, i would much rather spend 5 minutes opening a box (like i just did) full of packaging rather than open it to see no foam or anything.

I've just received my SPC rear camber kit & 25mm/20mm spacers. If Leons not busy this Sunday i'll be hitting him up to help me out.

Got my new wheels + 1.1'' lowering springs, camber kit, spacers all good to go. Then i just need to book in an allignment on Monday then i'm done.

Does anyone know who the best to see for alignments would be, prefferably someone that would be happy to give -1 degree camber if not 0 degrees? Cheers

No good Cal that's farrked. And to throw it in a box without any packaging is awful, i would much rather spend 5 minutes opening a box (like i just did) full of packaging rather than open it to see no foam or anything.

I've just received my SPC rear camber kit & 25mm/20mm spacers. If Leons not busy this Sunday i'll be hitting him up to help me out.

Got my new wheels + 1.1'' lowering springs, camber kit, spacers all good to go. Then i just need to book in an allignment on Monday then i'm done.

Does anyone know who the best to see for alignments would be, prefferably someone that would be happy to give -1 degree camber if not 0 degrees? Cheers

anyone should be happy to do it... if capable. you just tell them what u want and they should do it... tell them u want a print out of before and after too

I've heard that some places won't do negative camber, it's like when tyre shops don't want to fit tyres beyond specifications of the car.. like Bob Jane told me they can't fit 275/35/20 because it's illegal, damn i've seen people run f**kin 305/35/20 before who do they get to fit tyres haha.

205 you mean?

Got a response from HEL, there going to exchange the oil cooler for me and the sandwich plate as well. He told me that he didn't send me a thermostatic one because I'm in a hot climate so didnt think I would need it. BIt dodgy that they didn't ask this question and assumed it was a good idea to let the oil warm up slowly.

Show's what they know

But at least they are going to do something about it. Said he would send the cooler today (their time) so I'm just waiting for a response about if they can send the sandwich plate with it, because I'm going to need that sooner then the oil cooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
×
×
  • Create New...