Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For all the skyline owners in Mackay, this forum is pretty slack, maybe we need to organise a cruise or a BBQ/piss up get together again.... that was fun last time in Airlie, had so much fun I fell down a hill and f**ked myself up lol.

Im keen. But not till end of the month. Im in sydney all week next week and some of the next then back to work.

Although by then I might not have a skyline on the road lol..... all good. Ill find something

that sounds like a great idea, im down for that. i only get weekends though. on a different note, gotta pay off some parts, and start saving for a vipec, bugger all effort or drilling or removing anything to put it in. i like that idea better.

no more Skyline :(

Ben i saw your FJ coming around the corner today near work, looks mean.

and cal i saw the outside of your new place on the weekend, looks awesome. good spot too.

Edited by Seano350GT

no more Skyline :(

Ben i saw your FJ coming around the corner today near work, looks mean.

and cal i saw the outside of your new place on the weekend, looks awesome. good spot too.

Yeah pretty happy with it, still getting stuffed around with things that havent been done but are getting done now. I wont get into it, its enough of a headache as it is lol

Blew my tax money on a camera rather then a diff. So far don't regret the decision :P

Quick snap from our trip to Sydney this past week, Have a ton more but this one looked pretty good without any touch ups, so its the lucky photo that I'll use

9553455272_927070989c_b.jpg

[/url] by 89CAL, on Flickr

Turbo got back the other week, And I've finally had time to go have a proper look at it

Before:

IMG_3825.jpg

After:

20130827_195149_zps486ed2b5.jpg

20130827_195141_zpsd7a3b7d0.jpg

Looks much cooler now, should give a bit more power as well :)

This was done by Stao at Hypergear free of charge (minus shipping) which is part of the amazing customer service they offer

hey guys, i have a black r33 S1 front bumper pretter good nic that i wont need anymore.. anyone want to purchace it? :woot: As i'm moving to cairns soon i have no time to make my M-spec bar pretty :( half sanded and red will be a good look haha! :whistling:

amazing customer service ??? he neglected to mention to me about drilling out the stock oil restrictor in the block. so the turbo wasnt getting enuff oil and f**ked the seal's. subsequently needing a $400 rebuild that i had to pay..... he even admitted he forgot to tell me about drilling the restrictor out.... yeah thats amazing customer service. he was quick to email you back THATS about it

Just Committed myself to an RB26/30 engine build for possibly the 180SX . I Just purchased a brand spanking new Bare RB26 Head from the USA got it dirt cheap ;). All's I have to do now is hide it from my brother and old man before they claim it and it ends up on the Drag Car.

Turbo Oil Feed Restrictor Nic ?

These are usually in the banjo bolt though AFAIK. My HKS one is and I know Garrett do it with some of theirs. Nothing in the actual block that I can see. But I'm still not sure which engine was being talked about

Just for shits and giggles if You wanted to build the ultimate RB25, 26, 30 etc. What specs would you use, state wanted HP Level and Use, Drag, Street or Circuit etc.? Give me you dream list :woot:

I'll Start with mine for my 180SX Sleeper. Pretty Identical to the R32 Drag car setup except I went RB30 bottom end for more torque in a RWD Configuration.

HP - 1200 to 1400

Use - Drag/powercruise

Head:

- Full Supertech Valvetrain, Springs, Valves, Guides, Buckets.

- Custom Godzilla Motorsport Spec Cams 300+ degree 11.8mm Lift.

- Full CNC Ported Godzilla Spec head.

- Hypertune 102mm Plenum and Throttle Body + Fuel Rail.

- ARP 19mm Head studs

- Ross Cam Trigger Kit

- Aeromotive Pro Fuel Regulator

- Either ID 2000cc for E85 or Moran 5000cc injectors Methonol

Bottom End

- RB30 Block with fully prepped Nitto 3.2L Stroker.

- ARP Main Studs.

- Godzilla Billet main caps and Girdle Plate

- Raw Brokage Billet Dry Sump Pan.

- Peterson 4 Stage Dry Sump with Aeromotive Hex drive mech Fuel Pump

- Ross balancer kit with Gilmer belt Drive Kit for Dry Sump pump and Power steering.

- Mech Water Pump delete go to electric Craig Davis Pump

- Alternator Delete go to 18V Lithium battery.

Turbo System

- 6 Boost Manifold

- Turbo Smart 60mm Wastegate

- HKS T62R Turbo or Garrett GTX Equivalent

- Turbosmart Race Port Bov

- Custom PWR Intercooler

Electronics

- Vipec V88

- M&W CDI

- Weapon X Pencil Coils

Gearbox

- Custom NPC Twin Plate Clutch

- PPG 5 Speed Dog Box with Custom Race Bred Enterprise Ignition cut / lock out system.

Not a bad way to spend $ 50-60K ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
×
×
  • Create New...