Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For all the skyline owners in Mackay, this forum is pretty slack, maybe we need to organise a cruise or a BBQ/piss up get together again.... that was fun last time in Airlie, had so much fun I fell down a hill and f**ked myself up lol.

Im keen. But not till end of the month. Im in sydney all week next week and some of the next then back to work.

Although by then I might not have a skyline on the road lol..... all good. Ill find something

that sounds like a great idea, im down for that. i only get weekends though. on a different note, gotta pay off some parts, and start saving for a vipec, bugger all effort or drilling or removing anything to put it in. i like that idea better.

no more Skyline :(

Ben i saw your FJ coming around the corner today near work, looks mean.

and cal i saw the outside of your new place on the weekend, looks awesome. good spot too.

Edited by Seano350GT

no more Skyline :(

Ben i saw your FJ coming around the corner today near work, looks mean.

and cal i saw the outside of your new place on the weekend, looks awesome. good spot too.

Yeah pretty happy with it, still getting stuffed around with things that havent been done but are getting done now. I wont get into it, its enough of a headache as it is lol

Blew my tax money on a camera rather then a diff. So far don't regret the decision :P

Quick snap from our trip to Sydney this past week, Have a ton more but this one looked pretty good without any touch ups, so its the lucky photo that I'll use

9553455272_927070989c_b.jpg

[/url] by 89CAL, on Flickr

Turbo got back the other week, And I've finally had time to go have a proper look at it

Before:

IMG_3825.jpg

After:

20130827_195149_zps486ed2b5.jpg

20130827_195141_zpsd7a3b7d0.jpg

Looks much cooler now, should give a bit more power as well :)

This was done by Stao at Hypergear free of charge (minus shipping) which is part of the amazing customer service they offer

hey guys, i have a black r33 S1 front bumper pretter good nic that i wont need anymore.. anyone want to purchace it? :woot: As i'm moving to cairns soon i have no time to make my M-spec bar pretty :( half sanded and red will be a good look haha! :whistling:

amazing customer service ??? he neglected to mention to me about drilling out the stock oil restrictor in the block. so the turbo wasnt getting enuff oil and f**ked the seal's. subsequently needing a $400 rebuild that i had to pay..... he even admitted he forgot to tell me about drilling the restrictor out.... yeah thats amazing customer service. he was quick to email you back THATS about it

Just Committed myself to an RB26/30 engine build for possibly the 180SX . I Just purchased a brand spanking new Bare RB26 Head from the USA got it dirt cheap ;). All's I have to do now is hide it from my brother and old man before they claim it and it ends up on the Drag Car.

Turbo Oil Feed Restrictor Nic ?

These are usually in the banjo bolt though AFAIK. My HKS one is and I know Garrett do it with some of theirs. Nothing in the actual block that I can see. But I'm still not sure which engine was being talked about

Just for shits and giggles if You wanted to build the ultimate RB25, 26, 30 etc. What specs would you use, state wanted HP Level and Use, Drag, Street or Circuit etc.? Give me you dream list :woot:

I'll Start with mine for my 180SX Sleeper. Pretty Identical to the R32 Drag car setup except I went RB30 bottom end for more torque in a RWD Configuration.

HP - 1200 to 1400

Use - Drag/powercruise

Head:

- Full Supertech Valvetrain, Springs, Valves, Guides, Buckets.

- Custom Godzilla Motorsport Spec Cams 300+ degree 11.8mm Lift.

- Full CNC Ported Godzilla Spec head.

- Hypertune 102mm Plenum and Throttle Body + Fuel Rail.

- ARP 19mm Head studs

- Ross Cam Trigger Kit

- Aeromotive Pro Fuel Regulator

- Either ID 2000cc for E85 or Moran 5000cc injectors Methonol

Bottom End

- RB30 Block with fully prepped Nitto 3.2L Stroker.

- ARP Main Studs.

- Godzilla Billet main caps and Girdle Plate

- Raw Brokage Billet Dry Sump Pan.

- Peterson 4 Stage Dry Sump with Aeromotive Hex drive mech Fuel Pump

- Ross balancer kit with Gilmer belt Drive Kit for Dry Sump pump and Power steering.

- Mech Water Pump delete go to electric Craig Davis Pump

- Alternator Delete go to 18V Lithium battery.

Turbo System

- 6 Boost Manifold

- Turbo Smart 60mm Wastegate

- HKS T62R Turbo or Garrett GTX Equivalent

- Turbosmart Race Port Bov

- Custom PWR Intercooler

Electronics

- Vipec V88

- M&W CDI

- Weapon X Pencil Coils

Gearbox

- Custom NPC Twin Plate Clutch

- PPG 5 Speed Dog Box with Custom Race Bred Enterprise Ignition cut / lock out system.

Not a bad way to spend $ 50-60K ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...