Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's not far off. Waiting on a silicon hose for the oil drain and just have to finish off the head drain hose

Few little things then have to put the turbo and manifold on the old engine before it comes out to workout the wastegate placement and dump pipe but that shouldnt be a big deal :)

Who has got tyres fitted to wheels before (with you supplying the tyres)?

Ordered some new rears for my car today and will need someone to fit and balance them next week

Where do I got? Thinking Paget discount tyres or whatever there called might be the go but not 100% sure

Yep his whole garage is now a tyre shop/fitting shop haha it's hillarious.

Got my new gearbox clutch and flywheel fitted yesterday, car drives great. Clutch is so much lighter compared to the old HD exedy. It's making a little bit of a grind/rubbing sound when i engage it though, could just be wearing in but i'm getting leon to check over it again today and go from there. Happy with the results though!

Ok so i took the car back to Leon, he had a drive and he thinks it's the copper mix clutch. It makes a bit of a rubbing sound when the clutch is in changing gears. Just trying to find something on the internet with someone else having the same experience with this clutch

Pretty sure it's a pull type Cal. The noise appears when the clutch is fully engaged and changing gears. When the clutch is held in for about 3 seconds or more the noise stops. Yes there is a brand new throw out bearing in the car too. A couple of people i've spoken to think it's part of the wear in stage of a clutch, and the noise should dissapear after 500-1000km. I don't think the noise has anything to do with something not being installed correctly because everything is very smooth and no problems at all.

Yeah it could be just wear in. If your putting the clutch in and the noise disappears in 3 secs or so then whatever it is, is spinning with the gearbox so clutch plate would be

Email or call exedy and ask them if its worrying you

that's what Coz said from Conceptz. he said give it 500 miles then contact him again. I also asked him to contact the supplier for me, he's usually very helpful so i'll leave it for him to do for me. Is it possible the system wasn't bled correctly or something? there's brand new clutch fluid in there. I'm just trying to account for everything and narrow down to what the issue could be. Fingers crossed it's not a faulty clutch, Coz has never heard of this sound coming from the southbend clutch/flywheel setup. I guess time will tell!

This Power FC thing is doing my head in. My new one came the other day and I had time today to play around with it. It has the exact same issue. I'm hoping at least since I bought this new I can get some support from Apexi this time. I've tried just about everything I can think of now. Have emailed FC-Datalogit as well hoping that one of thier users has encountered the same issue

I might be heading for a Link at this rate, I'm not prepared to put up with the issue it has, as its annoying enough with the setup I have now, the lack of timing is gonna be worse with a bigger turbo and bigger cams.

Have yet another gauge to fit in my car somewhere now. Got my oil pressure gauge today. The sensor also doesnt fit in the block, both 1/8 threads but it looks like the sensor is NPT and the Block is BSPT. Went to pirtek for an adapter, and he couldnt find one and said just tap it out or put a spanner on it.... lol

finally after calling literally 9 different florists i've managed to get some ordered and delivered today.. let's just hope it actually gets to my mrs work before she leaves. shouldn't of left it til the last day though lol..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
×
×
  • Create New...