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Link has been ordered. Ended up getting it from Garage 7 along with a 4 bar map sensor, IAT sensor, expansion harness and boost solenoid for nearly $500 cheaper then what I was quoted from another dealer. cant complain with that :)

Haha I don't pay anyone to do anything, you should know that by now, but yeah still waiting of a few things so when it all gets here ill get stuck into it.

I didn't know if you'd leave hardcore offroad accessorising to a professional 4x4 fitter or not haha, so what exactly are you doing to it and did you end up buying anything through my work?

At the end of the day its all nuts and bolts I fit shit for a living :) . Never got anything through opposite lock, I ended up getting Custom Road Armour Bullbar from the USA expensive but tuff cost me $3K and I got 16" TRD Rims which look pretty awesome with BF Goodrich M/T KM2's 305/70 R16.

529667_10151463011148485_1794537908_n.jp

any one have any recommendations for getting my gearbox rebuilt in mackay? need my gear box rebuilt, fly wheel machined, new clutch put in and the rear main replaced. anyone know of someone that can do it cheap and reliably?

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    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
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