Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy R34 Manual Conversion Using R33 Parts

E_Lu-SHuN

By E_Lu-SHuN,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Yep, looks right.

Now the RS FOUR S has an R33 GTR gearbox, it uses a 3/4" slave & 5/8" master.

Looks like you have the same slave (3/4"), but cant quite make out the sizing on the master where the bleeder nipple is. I reckon it will be the 5/8" though.

Do they have fluid flow at all 3 bleeders?

Bleeding them from scratch can be a real pain, as there are 3 bleed points.

Bench bleeding the master is the way to go, then I would open the other 2 bleeders & gravity bleed. Once fluid shows at the second nipple, close it, & gravity bleed to the slave. Once fluid shows, then go back & bleed at the second point with 2 half pedal pushes. Do the same for the slave. This process shouldn't take more than 30-40 minutes.

Failing that, i'd suspect an install problem with the release bearing.

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

E_Lu-SHuN
E_Lu-SHuN

Hi guys, I've Just recently did a manual conversion on my 1998 r34 sedan gt-t and it was a success. It took me a while to research on all the parts needed but the end result was excellent. Now obvio

R34mac
R34mac

I just thought I'd add, I am thinking there are some small differences between the R34 manual and auto ECU's, besides the auto gearbox logic. I've noticed when slowing down, the revs will only drop do

533 RYC
533 RYC

Had the same issue 3 months ago, the top part WON'T come off, so stop trying! The boot is installed from the top (where the shift knob screws on). This description is going to sound a little weird, so

Posted Images

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted (edited)

Cool thanks man!

I'll ask them to re-bleed thoroughly and see if that helps, and if not check the thrust bearing again.

The thrust bearing is brand new and came with the clutch kit, I assume that shouldn't be the cause but who knows.

EDIT: And you're right, it says 5/8" on the bleeder nipple, found that in my pics.

Edited by V28VX37
533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Have you read the link I posted?

The refit of the gearbox is critical. Letting the weight of the gearbox via the input shaft rest on the pressure plate can/will damage the circlip that retains the release bearing. This is a pain in the bum, as you have to be REALLY careful & it's near impossible to avoid, even with the engine tilted all the way back!

If this is the issue, it's gearbox out & clutch off, as it's on the inside of the pressure plate. If the circlip is in anyway damaged, bin it, don't try & fix it. I kept my old one & still have it, so PM me & I'll post it to you.....

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Ok still more questions, related to warning lights this time. The A/T light blinks when starting the car and then stays on, which was pretty much expected after a conversion. Is there a good way to disable it without pulling the bulb out?

Also, after Wednesday's dyno runs the TCS and Slip lights are now permanently only, too :/ I'll haven't checked the codes yet but has anyone had this after a conversion? I'm still running the auto ECU and the car is running fine..

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted
...

Also, after Wednesday's dyno runs the TCS and Slip lights are now permanently only, too :/ I'll haven't checked the codes yet but has anyone had this after a conversion? I'm still running the auto ECU and the car is running fine..

Ok so I'm getting Code 17 'ABS-TCS control unit circuit' any ideas how to fix this?

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Ok I've just checked the older posts in this thread and Ybenasty, R34mac and E_Lu-SHuN (OP) have all reported TCS not working after the conversion so looks like it's a common issue.

Does anyone know how to fix/re-enable TCS when running a manual box with an auto ECU?

  • 4 weeks later...
97R33MSPEC Proficient

97R33MSPEC

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i am needing a pic of the inhibitor switch bypass. ive done my conversion and just need to do to final wiring to allow car to start and then get reverse lights going. Can someone please PM me the pic of what needs to be done.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

Posted
Posted

Hello Gents, I have my box and about to commence on the conversion .

A question I need to ask on the ER34 GTT auto to manual .

I have the gearbox but no cross member . Do I just need to change the cross member gearbox transmission rubber mount to the manual one to get it to mount on the bolt holes correctly?

don't want to use the two bolt mounting method would like to mount it with 4 bolts as originally intended .

If I change the rubber mount will it line up correctly or is the auto chassis adapted only to the auto cross member ?

Secondly I have the yoke section of the front half of the tail shaft its been cut but we can weld the yoke if need be .

Confirm what is the length of the front half prop shaft on the auto ?

Confirm what is the length of the front half prope shaft on the manual R33 ?

Please help so I know if can cut weld and balance the front half prop shaft to install in my conversion?

thanks in advance .

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

The shop who did my conversion just reused the original auto crossmember and gearbox mount with the manual box.

We used an R33 coupe tailshaft front part mated to the rear section of my R34 auto sedan, works well.

Hope this helps.

ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

Posted
Posted

I have some technical questions .

When you say auto rear to manual front prop are you talking about the two halfs meaning a complete front half from a manual onto a complete rear half of auto?

Or are you speaking about joining the Universal joint of the manual prop onto the auto prop section .... meaning the yoke off the manual onto the auto prop joining the two UJs together ?

Did the shop that did your conversion use all four bolt holes of the body section or only two ?

I need to know for sure before I go ahead would like to drive it out the garage the same day I do the conversion and not be stuck .....

Im miles away from any breakers we don't have many of those cars here .

And ordering would take ages online ?

Thanks in advance

Adam

ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

Posted
Posted

been reading and have found that the auto drive shaft is longer then the manual drive shaft ?

Please advise which is longer and which is shorter ?

Would like to know . if the auto is longer then its easier to weld the Yoke section and UJ on to the shaft .

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Hi Adam, sorry I'm not sure of the specifics you're asking about, hopefully someone else here knows.

All I know is that coupe and sedan tail shafts are different, and manual and auto ones are different. However, it's possible to combine them in various ways by the looks of things.

  • Like 1
ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

Posted
Posted

no no you have some of your info incorrect, the Coupe and Sedan use the same propeller shafts, the only difference comes in the length of the front half of the shaft and the number of splines on the inside of the prop shaft or tail shaft section as its called ( the front half ) so essentially I want to know what have I got to do to make the front half of the tail shaft work with these in hand .

The Yoke and Flex joint section of the front half ( been cut by the breakers in japan using a blow torch )

And the front half of the auto box prop shaft with the smaller Yoke attached ?

Cheers thanks again

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • Radical_Goodspeed
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By Radical_Goodspeed · Posted

      So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...