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Diy R34 Manual Conversion Using R33 Parts

E_Lu-SHuN

By E_Lu-SHuN,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Yep, looks right.

Now the RS FOUR S has an R33 GTR gearbox, it uses a 3/4" slave & 5/8" master.

Looks like you have the same slave (3/4"), but cant quite make out the sizing on the master where the bleeder nipple is. I reckon it will be the 5/8" though.

Do they have fluid flow at all 3 bleeders?

Bleeding them from scratch can be a real pain, as there are 3 bleed points.

Bench bleeding the master is the way to go, then I would open the other 2 bleeders & gravity bleed. Once fluid shows at the second nipple, close it, & gravity bleed to the slave. Once fluid shows, then go back & bleed at the second point with 2 half pedal pushes. Do the same for the slave. This process shouldn't take more than 30-40 minutes.

Failing that, i'd suspect an install problem with the release bearing.

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E_Lu-SHuN
E_Lu-SHuN

Hi guys, I've Just recently did a manual conversion on my 1998 r34 sedan gt-t and it was a success. It took me a while to research on all the parts needed but the end result was excellent. Now obvio

R34mac
R34mac

I just thought I'd add, I am thinking there are some small differences between the R34 manual and auto ECU's, besides the auto gearbox logic. I've noticed when slowing down, the revs will only drop do

533 RYC
533 RYC

Had the same issue 3 months ago, the top part WON'T come off, so stop trying! The boot is installed from the top (where the shift knob screws on). This description is going to sound a little weird, so

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted (edited)

Cool thanks man!

I'll ask them to re-bleed thoroughly and see if that helps, and if not check the thrust bearing again.

The thrust bearing is brand new and came with the clutch kit, I assume that shouldn't be the cause but who knows.

EDIT: And you're right, it says 5/8" on the bleeder nipple, found that in my pics.

Edited by V28VX37
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533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
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Have you read the link I posted?

The refit of the gearbox is critical. Letting the weight of the gearbox via the input shaft rest on the pressure plate can/will damage the circlip that retains the release bearing. This is a pain in the bum, as you have to be REALLY careful & it's near impossible to avoid, even with the engine tilted all the way back!

If this is the issue, it's gearbox out & clutch off, as it's on the inside of the pressure plate. If the circlip is in anyway damaged, bin it, don't try & fix it. I kept my old one & still have it, so PM me & I'll post it to you.....

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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I think it's all sorted, apparently a bad slave, lucky I had two... Will post an update once I get the car back.

Thanks for all your help 533 RYC and others!

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Got the car back today. First impressions: It's friggin' awesome! Should have got the conversion done years ago ... or bought a manual from the get go ;)

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
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Ok still more questions, related to warning lights this time. The A/T light blinks when starting the car and then stays on, which was pretty much expected after a conversion. Is there a good way to disable it without pulling the bulb out?

Also, after Wednesday's dyno runs the TCS and Slip lights are now permanently only, too :/ I'll haven't checked the codes yet but has anyone had this after a conversion? I'm still running the auto ECU and the car is running fine..

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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...

Also, after Wednesday's dyno runs the TCS and Slip lights are now permanently only, too :/ I'll haven't checked the codes yet but has anyone had this after a conversion? I'm still running the auto ECU and the car is running fine..

Ok so I'm getting Code 17 'ABS-TCS control unit circuit' any ideas how to fix this?

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
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Ok I've just checked the older posts in this thread and Ybenasty, R34mac and E_Lu-SHuN (OP) have all reported TCS not working after the conversion so looks like it's a common issue.

Does anyone know how to fix/re-enable TCS when running a manual box with an auto ECU?

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97R33MSPEC Proficient

97R33MSPEC

Posted
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Hey guys, i am needing a pic of the inhibitor switch bypass. ive done my conversion and just need to do to final wiring to allow car to start and then get reverse lights going. Can someone please PM me the pic of what needs to be done.

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ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

Posted
Posted

Hello Gents, I have my box and about to commence on the conversion .

A question I need to ask on the ER34 GTT auto to manual .

I have the gearbox but no cross member . Do I just need to change the cross member gearbox transmission rubber mount to the manual one to get it to mount on the bolt holes correctly?

don't want to use the two bolt mounting method would like to mount it with 4 bolts as originally intended .

If I change the rubber mount will it line up correctly or is the auto chassis adapted only to the auto cross member ?

Secondly I have the yoke section of the front half of the tail shaft its been cut but we can weld the yoke if need be .

Confirm what is the length of the front half prop shaft on the auto ?

Confirm what is the length of the front half prope shaft on the manual R33 ?

Please help so I know if can cut weld and balance the front half prop shaft to install in my conversion?

thanks in advance .

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
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The shop who did my conversion just reused the original auto crossmember and gearbox mount with the manual box.

We used an R33 coupe tailshaft front part mated to the rear section of my R34 auto sedan, works well.

Hope this helps.

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ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

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I have some technical questions .

When you say auto rear to manual front prop are you talking about the two halfs meaning a complete front half from a manual onto a complete rear half of auto?

Or are you speaking about joining the Universal joint of the manual prop onto the auto prop section .... meaning the yoke off the manual onto the auto prop joining the two UJs together ?

Did the shop that did your conversion use all four bolt holes of the body section or only two ?

I need to know for sure before I go ahead would like to drive it out the garage the same day I do the conversion and not be stuck .....

Im miles away from any breakers we don't have many of those cars here .

And ordering would take ages online ?

Thanks in advance

Adam

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ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

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Posted

been reading and have found that the auto drive shaft is longer then the manual drive shaft ?

Please advise which is longer and which is shorter ?

Would like to know . if the auto is longer then its easier to weld the Yoke section and UJ on to the shaft .

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
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Hi Adam, sorry I'm not sure of the specifics you're asking about, hopefully someone else here knows.

All I know is that coupe and sedan tail shafts are different, and manual and auto ones are different. However, it's possible to combine them in various ways by the looks of things.

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ZimNismoBoy Enthusiast

ZimNismoBoy

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Posted

no no you have some of your info incorrect, the Coupe and Sedan use the same propeller shafts, the only difference comes in the length of the front half of the shaft and the number of splines on the inside of the prop shaft or tail shaft section as its called ( the front half ) so essentially I want to know what have I got to do to make the front half of the tail shaft work with these in hand .

The Yoke and Flex joint section of the front half ( been cut by the breakers in japan using a blow torch )

And the front half of the auto box prop shaft with the smaller Yoke attached ?

Cheers thanks again

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