Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just get one of those slit dumps that has the screamer pipe.

You can see that its not a bad option for those of us who want under 300kw, don't car about brand names, don't care about whether we can say, "yeah two turbo's mate" but do want something reliable and responsive.

Have been a big fan of the idea for quite sometime.

Also a good plan for a 2JZGE except would need the GT35R cause its a 3.0L I reckon.

Ferni made somewhere around 330rwkw with his gg-ss's and I think 2860's are around the same power and can be had for about $2600. He did this with stock dumps an adj fuel reg and stock afm's and pfc. So for one days work to change them over and about $2600 plus $170 for nismo reg why go to the extra effort and risk unreliability? Plus no cops hassling you.

I tossed up going for a gt30 but couldn't really care anymore after going in his gtr with all the midrange torque you could want.

Projects are fun until something goes wrong remember!

Baron, I'm sure I can hook you up with one :D

If we are comparing the twins v SST on a cost basis (as opposed to benefit),

then you could go this way:

Garrett IW GT35R with actuator ~$2,000

dump + front pipe ~$400

Ebay manifold ~$300

inlet piping + filter ~$200

oil/water lines ~$200

~$3,100 for parts

~$1,000 labour

You are all forgetting a re-tune,and full service...which involves...dumping water and oil etc etc

The $1000 labour will only cover 1/2 the things...try $2000.

And that is if every-thing goes well when the workshop is installing the thing.

Also the gaskets all need replacing .......just incase you have a leak later....and all the copper washers

and bolt which hold manifolds and turbo's also need replacing ...if you go genuine add another 500.

Beer Baron ,

Get the parts first and then ask how much to install at a reputable workshop.

These figures here are all speculative.

a bit off topic, but what fittings (sizes/threads/braided lines) are typically used for going single on the 26? How is the water feed (ugly 4 way junction between cyl 3 and 4) resolved for braided line? same for oil feed and water return? blocking of the rear oil return and using the front oil return threaded fitting?

can someone point me to a "kit" if possible or have a resource w/ the thread sizes of these ports? :rolleyes:

^^^ agreed.

dont you guys wrench on your own cars?

If you can afford the setup and installation why the hell woul dyou want to bother doign it yourself? Especially twins on a GTR, id rather spend my weekend masturbating with a cheese grater :rolleyes:

If you are goign twins to single i see more of a reason to have others do it for you...things like oil return lines etc take a bit of experience to get right...ditto all the cooler piping that will need ot be made.

I don't see single as being unreliable. I don't see it as that expensive. Its a simpler concept than two turbos.

OFCOURSE you'd have a re-tune. I am not happy running stock ecu with a catback exhaust and a pod. After market ecu's when tuned properly make the car a whole new driving package.

I just like the idea of one turbo instead of two. Easier to see whats going on and understand the process of air movement at a glance. Easier to change the one turbo when it blows. Less amounts of pipes running around. Easier to upgrade when you want.

I dunno about everyone else, but having been defected in a few cars and pulled over alot ( cause cops around here are ruthless ) cops rarely know how many, if any, turbos should be on your car. They look for BOV's and pod filters as they are easy to spot.

yes cops is not a concern for me.

tekin, thanks for that advice, but i'm not a retard! having owned, worked on and driven/raced turbo cars for nearly 6 years. i know what things cost.

psybic, your idea is ok, but not the one for me. not going to use a large internal gate turbo. it's just not cricket. internal gates are great for price. but in every other area they suck. they are small. they have a flap that disrupts exhaust flow. they will have trouble passing enough gas to give nice boost control on a big effecient turbo. plus they sound like arse when used with a 'screamer'. external gate on the other hand is like a symphony of exhaust scream!

Tekin, re-tune is a must no matter what turbos you change too. as for servicing it's done my me so it's not really a cost. and same thing, it would be done no matter which turbos you are using (twins or SST). Also, no need to ring workshops and ask for prices, 3 of my good friends own workshops so i've not got a shortage of places to get it done.

maybe i should look at the smallest TO4Z. my theory is, if people claim a big single is better for big power than big twins (not saying they are right), then by that logic wouldn't a smaller single be better for moderate power than low mount twins? i've just been in the mood for something different. up till now the plan has always been:

HKS GT2530 X 2

tomei dumps

some front pipes

ARC FMIC

~260 deg cams (fairly low lift) in and ex

nismo afms

sard 700cc injectors

that is of course on top of my current set-up.

but i'm thinking this could acheive around the same result:

smallest TO4Z or maybe a 3240, or 3040

nice manifold

HKS wastegate

custom dump and front pipe

custom intake and piping to cooler intake

nismo AFMs (or maybe Z32s as no longer keeping current pods + adapters)

sard 700cc injectors

same cams as above.

ARC FMIC

again, on top of what i have now.

anyway, for now i'm just talking shit. as no firm decision is in my mind. i really need to spend a little time thinking about it. I am very happy with the way the car goes now with 270kw atw, but it could use another 50 or 60kw atw. and a little wastegate noise never hurt anyone so we'll see what happens.

I'm still keen to hear from someone who has done this. surely someone has done an SST on GTR before?

If you can afford the setup and installation why the hell woul dyou want to bother doign it yourself? Especially twins on a GTR, id rather spend my weekend masturbating with a cheese grater :(

If you are goign twins to single i see more of a reason to have others do it for you...things like oil return lines etc take a bit of experience to get right...ditto all the cooler piping that will need ot be made.

Maybe i see the whole save the labour cost for other things....but then again im not as rich as others, so thats how i work. Plus im always keen for the experience, it can only help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...