Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Rather than stop @ eng oil, here's a run down on what I've been using & the links to each one (I hope?).

Engine: Motul 300V (10W/40 mostly)

http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.02.01

If 300V is good enough for NISMO & MUGEN to use it then it's good enough for me :D

G/box: Castrol VMX80

http://www.castrol.com.au/castrol_001/prod...rans_index.html

Diff': Redline Shockproof "Superlight" http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/spgoti.htm

Brake fluid: Motul RBF 600

http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.06.01

Brake pads: EBC Greenstuff

http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/green.htm

As Motul is a French based company the English translation on their website is a tad average :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-19011
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

yeh mobil 1 5W50 is too thin for a worn engine, redline or agip 10W40 would be better

im surprised to hear alot of you using mobil 1, ive been told by quite a few people to stay clear of it - not good quality etc...

As I said this is NOT the stuff you buy at Mobil servos or Kmart, it's a different product. I've heard not good stuff about the regular Mobil 1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-19710
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I thought I better add my opinions on Oils.

The biggest problem we all face is we have NO idea what happened before we all got these cars. The most critcial time in a motors life IS the 1st 0 to 20000 kays. Did he/she run it in properly or was it thrashed,,,,did it get regular(5000kay) oil changes or when they got around to it.

I think some of you guys are chucking away good hard earned money on oils that are just not needed. Sure top quality Synthetics oils are the best thing man has invented for the Internal Combustion Engine,,,,buts it not real good for most of us because we don't know what happened before we bought them and sometimes its just plain old "to slippery".

You guy's are gonna kill me,,,but I use Castrol Para-Synthetic oil,,,,. Only because it only stays in there for 5000kays and it has good,,,not great detergent qualities. At 70000 plus kays you don't wanna start cleaning every bit of sludge and build up out of the motor or you'll end up with one noisey Mutha.

Shell,,,, stick with the Mobil 1 you are using,,,changing oils is never a good thing.

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25511
Share on other sites

OK, OK....

Can someone answer this question. If an oil has good temperature stability, is it the better oil?

Oil's making 5kw or more to me means nothing as it has to do the basic function, protect the motor.

My thinking is that if it holds temperature better, it has less wear and tear on the motor, thus is the better oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25522
Share on other sites

SIlver-Arrowz,

I think your on to something there. Some oils tend to loose the plot when the temps get high.

NDR,

You've got a good point there. If the motor is crap to begin with, then the type of oil that you use isn't going to fix it, but it might stop it from getting worse.

I was lucky when I got mine. I found the service history book under the seat, it had all the factory services done before the KM's were up, car chassis and motor numbers are the same too (thank god...).

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25627
Share on other sites

I agree with you ndr. There's not much point putting expensive super low viscosity oil in a tired & worn motor, just as silly as putting low grade 25W60 into a healthy close tolerance twin cam turbo engine.

The grade of oil should be chosen based on manufacturers spec's, climate/temp, age/condition of the engine, & the intended use of the engine.

In a healthy engine you want oil that resists high temperature charring & maintains its viscosity. Oil that doesn't hold up under high temperature will lose viscosity & cause a drop in oil pressure, it's also more likely to burn, or carbonize.

In a performance application the better your oil holds up under high temp' the better it's protecting the engine internals. 5000k of "enthusiastic" driving "can" include a lot of high oil temp's, a track session is a perfect example, hence oil coolers to keep the oil temp under control. A quality performance proven oil is worth the extra $$$ if you’re keen to drive enthusiastically from time to time ;)

Have a chat with the pit crew on a race team (any form of racing) & see what oil they use? & how often they change it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25965
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...