Oils aint oils

[adam 32]

if its over 100,000 ks then id say use a 10W40

ask your mechanic tho as he gets a hands-on opinion of the car, but personally i would use a thicker oil over 100ks

[whatsisname]

Rather than stop @ eng oil, here's a run down on what I've been using & the links to each one (I hope?).

Engine: Motul 300V (10W/40 mostly)

http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.02.01

If 300V is good enough for NISMO & MUGEN to use it then it's good enough for me

G/box: Castrol VMX80

http://www.castrol.com.au/castrol_001/prod...rans_index.html

Diff': Redline Shockproof "Superlight" http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/spgoti.htm

Brake fluid: Motul RBF 600

http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.06.01

Brake pads: EBC Greenstuff

http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/green.htm

As Motul is a French based company the English translation on their website is a tad average

[two40]

whatsisname, good stuff. thanks for the links

[R31Heaven]

Have a look at this link it is a text doc iI found on the net about oils.

Document on oils

[red900ss]

Originally posted by adam 32

yeh mobil 1 5W50 is too thin for a worn engine, redline or agip 10W40 would be better

im surprised to hear alot of you using mobil 1, ive been told by quite a few people to stay clear of it - not good quality etc...

As I said this is NOT the stuff you buy at Mobil servos or Kmart, it's a different product. I've heard not good stuff about the regular Mobil 1.

[adam 32]

as i understood it there was only 1 type of mobil 1, sold at servos for $50 5L. what stuf are you talking about??

[Guest MACATAC]

ELF Synthese 5w40 has given "us" good results. Dont want seal leaks though as it will find its way out. I change it every 5k if working hard or 8k if just cruising. If going to the track i always do a change prior, regardless of when the last change was done.

[red900ss]

Originally posted by adam 32

as i understood it there was only 1 type of mobil 1, sold at servos for $50 5L. what stuf are you talking about??

This is a different product. When I get the product number I'll post it up.

[UNREAL]

I have always used Shell Helix Ultra (silver container). Change it every 4000kms. No point letting it go black.

[Cubes]

Where in Adelaide can we buy the Redline Oils?

[Neil]

I thought I better add my opinions on Oils.

The biggest problem we all face is we have NO idea what happened before we all got these cars. The most critcial time in a motors life IS the 1st 0 to 20000 kays. Did he/she run it in properly or was it thrashed,,,,did it get regular(5000kay) oil changes or when they got around to it.

I think some of you guys are chucking away good hard earned money on oils that are just not needed. Sure top quality Synthetics oils are the best thing man has invented for the Internal Combustion Engine,,,,buts it not real good for most of us because we don't know what happened before we bought them and sometimes its just plain old "to slippery".

You guy's are gonna kill me,,,but I use Castrol Para-Synthetic oil,,,,. Only because it only stays in there for 5000kays and it has good,,,not great detergent qualities. At 70000 plus kays you don't wanna start cleaning every bit of sludge and build up out of the motor or you'll end up with one noisey Mutha.

Shell,,,, stick with the Mobil 1 you are using,,,changing oils is never a good thing.

Neil.

[Silver-Arrowz]

OK, OK....

Can someone answer this question. If an oil has good temperature stability, is it the better oil?

Oil's making 5kw or more to me means nothing as it has to do the basic function, protect the motor.

My thinking is that if it holds temperature better, it has less wear and tear on the motor, thus is the better oil.

[Jay95R33]

SIlver-Arrowz,

I think your on to something there. Some oils tend to loose the plot when the temps get high.

NDR,

You've got a good point there. If the motor is crap to begin with, then the type of oil that you use isn't going to fix it, but it might stop it from getting worse.

I was lucky when I got mine. I found the service history book under the seat, it had all the factory services done before the KM's were up, car chassis and motor numbers are the same too (thank god...).

J

[whatsisname]

I agree with you ndr. There's not much point putting expensive super low viscosity oil in a tired & worn motor, just as silly as putting low grade 25W60 into a healthy close tolerance twin cam turbo engine.

The grade of oil should be chosen based on manufacturers spec's, climate/temp, age/condition of the engine, & the intended use of the engine.

In a healthy engine you want oil that resists high temperature charring & maintains its viscosity. Oil that doesn't hold up under high temperature will lose viscosity & cause a drop in oil pressure, it's also more likely to burn, or carbonize.

In a performance application the better your oil holds up under high temp' the better it's protecting the engine internals. 5000k of "enthusiastic" driving "can" include a lot of high oil temp's, a track session is a perfect example, hence oil coolers to keep the oil temp under control. A quality performance proven oil is worth the extra $$$ if you’re keen to drive enthusiastically from time to time

Have a chat with the pit crew on a race team (any form of racing) & see what oil they use? & how often they change it?

[whatsisname]

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

OK, OK....

Can someone answer this question. If an oil has good temperature stability, is it the better oil?

YES

[KamikazeR33]

bling bling