My Restoration

[smurfpirate]

man this is insane i just got my car a few days ago and plan on slowing cleaning and fixing everything. with your bay do you plan on hiding wires and reloctating the battery etc. im thinking about doing this. ps very nice build.

[Godzilla32]

Cheers mate. I had thought about hiding the wiring etc but looked back on original photos and realised that with everything back in the engine bay you can't see much of the wiring anyway so it would be a bit pointless.

Im currently getting the block painted up and will either assemble the bottom end this weekend if its raining or if not, i'll head out to jamboree at willowbank

More to come soon..

Deren

[7yphon]

All I can say this is insain What where the part no's for those breaks as I want to buy them for myself

[Godzilla32]

The brakes? They are all original. I machined the rotors all round. Scuffed all the pads (save money). Carefully painted the calipers/rotors and filed back the logos. If you want new brakes go aftermarket. Nissan wont be cheap!

[BANGN]

any more updates would have thought u got the engine back and u started putn it together.. clean internals are sexy especially when teh crank and rods and pistons are all assembled..

PICSORBAN!

Edited September 7, 2007 by BANGN

[Godzilla32]

Hey, sorry for the long delay between posts. I was struggling to get a piston ring filer at first but now its pretty much done so i'll be assembling the bottom end with GTRgeoff tomorrow.

Posted pics of:

Forged pistons

ARP rods bolts

Forged conrods

Linished crank fitted with Jun crank collar

Block on stand

New main and big end bearings

Deren

[Godzilla32]

Ok finally the bottom end is together. Today me and GTRgeoff assembled the crank, rods and pistons. So basically i now have a freely rotating bottom end minus all the extras like oil and water pumps, head, sump, turbos etc.

Here are a few pics of me and Geoff bolting it together.

This week i'll be picking up my sump and cylinder head from JHH engineering. John at JHH has port matched the head and done the chambers. Down in Melbourne the head has also been fitted with all new guides, stem seals, pocket flowed, re-shimmed.

JHH also setup an external oil return, its tapped into the back of the head and the side of the deep section of the sump (where the pick-up is). I've had the drillings in the sump opened up too, where the oil makes it way back to the deep section if it returns through the block.

Now i just need to get myself a Tomei sump baffle and a new head gasket, possbily Cometic. Then i can bolt them both back on.

Im also going to get John at JHH to check over my throttle bodies, as since i cleaned them i've always had an annoying high idle due to air leaks.

Planning to order a pair of 2860-5's in the next few weeks

Deren

[Duncan]

bloody hell.....geoff helped? you could be in trouble

re the throttle bodies - cleaning them is a no-no, they have a coating on them that is easily removed Your best bet will be to get a second hand set of throttle bodies. Will be interested to see if JHH have a solution

[Godzilla32]

Yeah i know, Geoff is a worry. Haha, he will know what i mean.

In regards to the throttles, i've already spent a bit of cash on them trying to sort them out but i think i was ripped off by a failing business. John said he does alot of throttle work so im pretty confident he'll be able to help me out

Cheers,

Deren

[funkymonkey]

watch out for that geoff fella... he's trouble... especially if there's a bike, welder, or model paint at hands reach.

[Al]

re the throttle bodies - cleaning them is a no-no, they have a coating on them that is easily removed Your best bet will be to get a second hand set of throttle bodies. Will be interested to see if JHH have a solution

So what is this coating? what does it do? and what happens if it is removed?

[GTRgeoff]

Let's just say never leave a dodgy bottle of Wurth thread locker sitting next to the assembly lube

There is no substitute. Only ever use Loctite!!

And bugger assembly lube. Lanox spray is a million times better.

Having now had the grand tour of the work Deran has done in restoring this machine, all I can say is all the old busted arse 32 GTR's out there are not even in the same league, even if perfectly new from factory. The colour is magnificent and the attention to detail is beyond any but the finest auto manufacturers.

Consider the spray job inside and out, the underbody sealer, the colour matching on items as simple as the steering rack....... the list goes on.

If he ever drives it it will be a travesty.

Also the TB's need to be sealed or you can't get a low idle. 6 TB's let so much air through compared to one so cleaning them is a no-no.

[Godzilla32]

Yeah i'll let you guys know what i find out about the throttle bodies through the week.

Deren

[BANGN]

one of your pistons is round the wrong way!!!

just kidding loooks superb! looking forward to more progress, shes full steam ahead now!

Edited September 12, 2007 by BANGN

[Godzilla32]

Haha, i can assure you they weren't. However that doesnt matter anymore cuz its all in bits again. Will rebuild this weekend if all goes to plan.

Deren

[GTRgeoff]

STOP

OBSESSING!!!

Just make sure you use fresh bearings.

[Godzilla32]

John from JHH engineering that machined the engine for me said that the block and all internals should have been throughly washed out prior to assembly. I kind of felt like this would have been a good idea. He said to make sure it is all completely spotless. Another thing he said was not to oil the pistons, but only smear a little on the piston skirts. He said use something like CRC to prevent the bores from rusting but nothing else. The reason being is that it improves ring bed in and apparently this was discovered about 15 years ago. I found it hard to believe but other people have also confirmed that its the correct way for a quick efficient bed in. He also said there is no harm in re-using the same bearings, torqueing down the internals to check for clearances is the same procedure. I have spent thousands on this engine and groud up rebuild, i can't take any risks on any part of it especially the engine. You can call me obsessive but its better to be careful than to be careless and have something fail and waste all that time and money. The way i see it is John has machined this engine and has done so for a very long time (30+ years) and sticking to his guidelines will mean if anything does go wrong my method of assembly can't be blamed.

However don't get me wrong i was very appreciative of your help Geoff, i'd just prefer to be safe than sorry when so much money is involved.

Deren

[Duncan]

mate new bearings for sure, they are only about $200 from ACL

[GTRgeoff]

You're all good Deren. You have to be happy with what you are doing.

I just recently read an ACL based document on the washing of the bores and block, which I get done at the machinists anyway ready for the final build clean. As I've mentioned there are so many different opinions out there, and I stick with what works for me. As you saw, when I deviated from my process things got interesting.

Have fun mate. This is the good part.

[BANGN]

yeh wen i rebuilt my gze and i got it back from the machine shop, prior to assembly i went and got two rolls of paper towel wax and grease remover and about 5 cans of degreaser, i degreased the block down about 10 times and wiped it down with white paper down each time to the point that if i wiped the block with the white towel i wouldnt get any dirty marks, it would be spotless... took a while but its a satisfactory thing its clean i guess

i found also dont forget to give your fly and clutch a nice wipe down as even when i did mine i still found it sliped a bit even after it was run in. tis ok now tho

Edited September 13, 2007 by BANGN