Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i was aware of their heater hose sets as i have one of them lined up but i wasnt sure they had a complete set with every single little hose lol. If i do it i wanna replace every one of the vacuum and coolant ones. I reckon it'll be alot cheaper to buy lengths of straight tubing and just cut it to size.

I have got onto a Samco distributor that can supply me with a heater hose set and radiator hose set. They also have every other silicone hose known to man. All the hoses that i need to replicate are laid out and i think the soft silicone tube will make the bends. I'll keep you all posted with updates. Next step, as i think i already mentioned, will be picking up the throttle bodies. I'll try to get that done in the next couple of weeks :down:

Uni-coils. Yeah thats an idea if it comes to that. I think you mis-understood me. I am getting Samco radiator hoses in a proper kit that are made to fit like OEM. Aswell as a heater hose kit. The ones i will be making up will be just the 9.5mm coolant hoses that run across the front of the timing cover and there is one that runs around the right side rear corner of the cylinder head. I'll probably use the same stuff for the vacuum supply hoses for the brake and clutch boosters if it will look ok. The Samco products are quite well priced which i was pleased to find :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Planning to pick up the rebuilt throttle bodies this week coming after work one day. This will hopefully be one of the last bigger spends that i will have to make on the engine. I have added some updated pics of the engine since properly fitting all the coolant and vacuum pipes to the turbo side of the engine. Its now complete minus the silicone tubing and the chrome plated twin turbo pipe and the one that feeds it off the rear turbo.

On another note who can tell me if the Wurth thread tape will hold up against the high temps seen on the o2 sensor adapter threads?? It melts instantly with a flame but they will only really be subjected to high temps not direct flame. Im worried about this so can someone help me out?

Deren

post-14108-1209795019_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1209795048_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1209795078_thumb.jpg

Edited by Godzilla32

Deren, without checking back through your posts, but did you end up painting those turbine housings? I like the finish on the heatshields too...looking mint.

Cheers

Brendan

(the other anal retentive car nut)

Hey Brendan, we are 2 of a kind it seems.

I couldnt afford to coat anything with heat proof finish unfortunately. As it is im about 1 million billion dollars over budget. No wait...whats a budget? Oh yes, that figure i once had in mind of spending.. Im trying not to leave anything out that i can't do later but within reason. This project has gone from a accident repair and nice paintjob to a fully blown ground up rebuild. If i don't draw a line on some areas i will never get it done on my wage.

Im currently working on my external oil return made up with genuine Earl's braided perform-o-flex hose, and swivel-seal fittings. Im also organising chrome plating of the inlet plenum and the twin turbo pipe.

Ive kept an eye on your Silv blog. I like what you have done, very tasteful :thumbsup:

Thanks mate, yeah i know its worth it :( Just hard to wait this long.

Tonight i picked up my rebuilt throttle bodies and had a good chat to Will at JHH. Nice guy.

I hope they provide me with a nice, smooth, low idle! Similar to how it was before i messed around with them.. lol

post-14108-1210075226_thumb.jpg

Hey Deren, I don't see any sealant around those.....going to put a little in just to be sure or does he think it will be ok? Not that I can really see the interface that needs sealant from this angle......

I've been trying to help a few other guys that are OCD and pulled their TBs off, then cleaned all the "gunk" out and now can't idle lower than 1500 :) No reports if they have resealed and had success yet.

Hey Geoff, No they have advised me that is a bad idea and wont be necessary. They are very finely machined so only about 1 thou clearance around them to prevent sticking throttle plates. Will at JHH actually advised me the idle may actually be too low initially and require extra bypass air or even to have to crack the throttle plates a tiny bit. Now wouldnt that be nice :D Would really make the $600 worth while. Considering i have spent well over a $1000 dollars on trying to fix these bastards now im hopeful its fixed! Shame i didnt know brand new ones from Nissan were available to me at $1000 bucks complete with linkage arms etc. RRP might be more though.

Ron, i have kept busy ;)

Originally I had them done at a place in Melbourne, but the business was going down and screwed me over. So i wouldnt reccomend them for the simple reason of...I just had them redone properly! Look for automotive engineering shops that do alot of machine work on late model jap engines and you will find some of them do a fair bit of throttle body work.

A few quick shots. Looks a bit of a mess at the moment, needs to have cables plugged in and tied away. Dirty finger marks cleaned off. Still, its coming together and looking pretty sweet. The end result will be one clean Rb26 unit! :w00t:

post-14108-1210245399_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1210245455_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1210245482_thumb.jpg

Some more pics of ancillaries fitted :) Its getting closer now!

Things still to do:

Have the plenum, twin turbo pipe and the feed from the rear turbo chrome plated

Purchase, assemble and fit the Earls external oil return

Purchase and fit all new Samco coolant hoses and vacuum tubing

Ultrasonic injector clean and flow check

post-14108-1210325230_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1210325251_thumb.jpg

Edited by Godzilla32

Thanks mate, i was thinking the other day just since moving here to QLD the amount of cash ive poured into the GTR i could have easily bought a $30,000 sports car :domokun: It'll be one nice GTR but if there was no accident to spur me on to do this build i could have had 2 sports cars. My dream is to have an S15 as a daily car..

Deren

Wait until the GTR is fresh and handling well mate. The S15 dream will disappear pretty quickly, especially since they have spaghetti for gearbox parts in the 6 speed. So it would be a labour of {something....certainly not love} once you feel the urge for some extra go. I drove one once, and it was ok and they look alright but just so not a Skyline. It was a tighter fit than a GTR32 for me and I recall you aren't so little anymore :)

This is something special happening though. I remember how much you were into it before you started the massive build and I doubt I will ever see the day you get rid of this one, just as I plan to have the 33 forever, and plan to die in it when it all gets too much.

Have you thought about protection? I recently picked up a car bra for the 33 on ebay for about $120 second hand but almost unused. Sure thay look crap and wanky but after I get the paintjob I will want to have it and like the idea of being able to remove it for paint maintenance. Plus I see a number of the cars that P1 Supercar club that I have driven are protected by a thin film of tough plastic over the front panels which I was contemplating until the car bra popped up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.
    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
×
×
  • Create New...