Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i was aware of their heater hose sets as i have one of them lined up but i wasnt sure they had a complete set with every single little hose lol. If i do it i wanna replace every one of the vacuum and coolant ones. I reckon it'll be alot cheaper to buy lengths of straight tubing and just cut it to size.

I have got onto a Samco distributor that can supply me with a heater hose set and radiator hose set. They also have every other silicone hose known to man. All the hoses that i need to replicate are laid out and i think the soft silicone tube will make the bends. I'll keep you all posted with updates. Next step, as i think i already mentioned, will be picking up the throttle bodies. I'll try to get that done in the next couple of weeks :down:

Uni-coils. Yeah thats an idea if it comes to that. I think you mis-understood me. I am getting Samco radiator hoses in a proper kit that are made to fit like OEM. Aswell as a heater hose kit. The ones i will be making up will be just the 9.5mm coolant hoses that run across the front of the timing cover and there is one that runs around the right side rear corner of the cylinder head. I'll probably use the same stuff for the vacuum supply hoses for the brake and clutch boosters if it will look ok. The Samco products are quite well priced which i was pleased to find :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Planning to pick up the rebuilt throttle bodies this week coming after work one day. This will hopefully be one of the last bigger spends that i will have to make on the engine. I have added some updated pics of the engine since properly fitting all the coolant and vacuum pipes to the turbo side of the engine. Its now complete minus the silicone tubing and the chrome plated twin turbo pipe and the one that feeds it off the rear turbo.

On another note who can tell me if the Wurth thread tape will hold up against the high temps seen on the o2 sensor adapter threads?? It melts instantly with a flame but they will only really be subjected to high temps not direct flame. Im worried about this so can someone help me out?

Deren

post-14108-1209795019_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1209795048_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1209795078_thumb.jpg

Edited by Godzilla32

Deren, without checking back through your posts, but did you end up painting those turbine housings? I like the finish on the heatshields too...looking mint.

Cheers

Brendan

(the other anal retentive car nut)

Hey Brendan, we are 2 of a kind it seems.

I couldnt afford to coat anything with heat proof finish unfortunately. As it is im about 1 million billion dollars over budget. No wait...whats a budget? Oh yes, that figure i once had in mind of spending.. Im trying not to leave anything out that i can't do later but within reason. This project has gone from a accident repair and nice paintjob to a fully blown ground up rebuild. If i don't draw a line on some areas i will never get it done on my wage.

Im currently working on my external oil return made up with genuine Earl's braided perform-o-flex hose, and swivel-seal fittings. Im also organising chrome plating of the inlet plenum and the twin turbo pipe.

Ive kept an eye on your Silv blog. I like what you have done, very tasteful :thumbsup:

Thanks mate, yeah i know its worth it :( Just hard to wait this long.

Tonight i picked up my rebuilt throttle bodies and had a good chat to Will at JHH. Nice guy.

I hope they provide me with a nice, smooth, low idle! Similar to how it was before i messed around with them.. lol

post-14108-1210075226_thumb.jpg

Hey Deren, I don't see any sealant around those.....going to put a little in just to be sure or does he think it will be ok? Not that I can really see the interface that needs sealant from this angle......

I've been trying to help a few other guys that are OCD and pulled their TBs off, then cleaned all the "gunk" out and now can't idle lower than 1500 :) No reports if they have resealed and had success yet.

Hey Geoff, No they have advised me that is a bad idea and wont be necessary. They are very finely machined so only about 1 thou clearance around them to prevent sticking throttle plates. Will at JHH actually advised me the idle may actually be too low initially and require extra bypass air or even to have to crack the throttle plates a tiny bit. Now wouldnt that be nice :D Would really make the $600 worth while. Considering i have spent well over a $1000 dollars on trying to fix these bastards now im hopeful its fixed! Shame i didnt know brand new ones from Nissan were available to me at $1000 bucks complete with linkage arms etc. RRP might be more though.

Ron, i have kept busy ;)

Originally I had them done at a place in Melbourne, but the business was going down and screwed me over. So i wouldnt reccomend them for the simple reason of...I just had them redone properly! Look for automotive engineering shops that do alot of machine work on late model jap engines and you will find some of them do a fair bit of throttle body work.

A few quick shots. Looks a bit of a mess at the moment, needs to have cables plugged in and tied away. Dirty finger marks cleaned off. Still, its coming together and looking pretty sweet. The end result will be one clean Rb26 unit! :w00t:

post-14108-1210245399_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1210245455_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1210245482_thumb.jpg

Some more pics of ancillaries fitted :) Its getting closer now!

Things still to do:

Have the plenum, twin turbo pipe and the feed from the rear turbo chrome plated

Purchase, assemble and fit the Earls external oil return

Purchase and fit all new Samco coolant hoses and vacuum tubing

Ultrasonic injector clean and flow check

post-14108-1210325230_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1210325251_thumb.jpg

Edited by Godzilla32

Thanks mate, i was thinking the other day just since moving here to QLD the amount of cash ive poured into the GTR i could have easily bought a $30,000 sports car :domokun: It'll be one nice GTR but if there was no accident to spur me on to do this build i could have had 2 sports cars. My dream is to have an S15 as a daily car..

Deren

Wait until the GTR is fresh and handling well mate. The S15 dream will disappear pretty quickly, especially since they have spaghetti for gearbox parts in the 6 speed. So it would be a labour of {something....certainly not love} once you feel the urge for some extra go. I drove one once, and it was ok and they look alright but just so not a Skyline. It was a tighter fit than a GTR32 for me and I recall you aren't so little anymore :)

This is something special happening though. I remember how much you were into it before you started the massive build and I doubt I will ever see the day you get rid of this one, just as I plan to have the 33 forever, and plan to die in it when it all gets too much.

Have you thought about protection? I recently picked up a car bra for the 33 on ebay for about $120 second hand but almost unused. Sure thay look crap and wanky but after I get the paintjob I will want to have it and like the idea of being able to remove it for paint maintenance. Plus I see a number of the cars that P1 Supercar club that I have driven are protected by a thin film of tough plastic over the front panels which I was contemplating until the car bra popped up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean I can be OCD'y but this is really over the top. At that point why not just run a full wideband fuel controller? Especially if you run 3 widebands. The system works pretty well, which is trimming low load stuff to be within a few percent of the base map. Pre-engine _change_ the base map was only 1-2% off, depending on ambient temp, elevation, etc. Under load the LS is really very straightforward to tune, enough that a wideband closed loop would be overkill. If I really cared (and I hope I don't) I can always just go back to the MAF system the car actually came with. Which does all those nice calculations for me (temp, altitude, etc), now that you can buy 102mm MAF's that do not cause restrictions.
    • Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
×
×
  • Create New...