Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Needed - R33 Gtst ----high Rpm Popping

Eav00l

By Eav00l,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Eav00l Proficient

Eav00l

Posted
Posted

Hi all, as some of you may know i am selling my car due to an knee injury i did snowboarding, the other week i got in my car and noticed when i put my foot flat to the floor at around 5000rpm the car would cough and splatter (almost like it was hitting rev limiter at 5000 not 7000 {but the engine kept reviing to 7000rpm while coughing).

I took it to a mate and he said it could be the AFM being dirty, i got some auto elec contact cleaner and cleaned the contacts... this did not work.

As long as the pedal is not flat to the floor it will act normally but as soon as it hit the floor and 5000rpm it starts playing up.

I was thinking it may be a turbo problem.... is there a way to check wihout pulling it off the car?

Car is as follows

1993 - ECR33. GTST

5 Speed Manual

Front Mount Intercooler

Cold Air Intake

Pod Air Filter

3.5in Exhaust

Turbosmart BOV

It is currently running about 7psi although i did not have a boost guage connected to the vacuum hose for about 3 weeks as i was making a custom mould for it, then when i connected it back up it was reading about 7psi instead of 10psi... same guage same everything just different location... i think the engine problem may have happened around the same time the boodt guage got connected back up....

As the car is still for sale any help would be gratefully accepted.

Thank you....

Craig

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

I'm sure Sydney Kid will post soon and clear this up if its wrong.

I have exactly the same problem so have been doing some searching. Seems that R33 GTSt's run extra rich. The problem we could we be having is its running so rich, it splutters and carries on.

As soon as you wack a pod on their, its going to see alot more air, the ecu over compensates and rich and retards like crazy.

Everyone always says coil packs first up, for everything... check them for sure, but I'll put money on it NOT being them.

Check them by pulling them out and see if they look shit for starters ( like cracks or anything ). Then get a work shop manual and work out which pin to the base should have what resistance. I did this ages ago when I was assured I needed to invest in split fires, turned out it wasn't the coil packs at all.

To fix mine, I intend ( when I get paid this month ), to check the afr's and see just how rich it runs on a dyno.

Will check things like O2 sensor, TPS ( as it seems to always be fueling up when I back off and wants to just cruise rather than decel ), then to resolve the problem, either an SAFC or if I feel super keen, full after market ecu so the timing can be controlled aswell as fuel. ( LT12 is what I'm thinking, sorry to stray from powerfc culture... don't hate me)

MR331307 Experienced

MR331307

Posted
Posted
I would be a bit concerned that the boost is reading lower - are you sure you dont have a leak somewhere?

factory boost with and exhaust should be higher than 7psi

What boost u running or what does it say

what spark plugs did u use and what gaps are u running

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

he is around

just doesnt answer as much (at least i think anyway)

given majority of the questions in here have been answered before and a quick search would give u the better answers in the past

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • The Bogan
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • GTSBoy
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Shoota_77
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • The Bogan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...