Jump to content
SAU Community

New Setup

gun32gtr

By gun32gtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gun32gtr Grand Master

gun32gtr

Posted
Posted

after reading a mighty good thread on small singles or even big singles on gtrs i decided to stay low mount twin! it was going to cost well over my budget anyway?

i am only looking for around 300-320awkw this is what i think ill need,if there is anything missing or i have something there that isnt needed would be great if yous could let me no?

pfc+hand controller

550cc injectors

z32 afm+plugs

front pipes(just jap or should i get hks)

cam 260 duration 9.1 lift

cam gears

new cooler core

fuel reg

oil cooler and relocater

now with turbos this is where i would have to be careful so not to blow the budget

so ive seen some r32 gtr n1 spec turbos for about $1200 what are these thinngs like if someone could shed some light

gt-ss bit pricy but would the best option

gt2860r with either -5-7 not sure what these are like b ut sound good for $2700

so any help would be greatfully appreciated

regards kane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 281
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
after reading a mighty good thread on small singles or even big singles on gtrs i decided to stay low mount twin! it was going to cost well over my budget anyway?

i am only looking for around 300-320awkw this is what i think ill need,if there is anything missing or i have something there that isnt needed would be great if yous could let me no?

pfc+hand controller

550cc injectors

z32 afm+plugs

front pipes(just jap or should i get hks)

cam 260 duration 9.1 lift

cam gears

new cooler core

fuel reg

oil cooler and relocater

now with turbos this is where i would have to be careful so not to blow the budget

so ive seen some r32 gtr n1 spec turbos for about $1200 what are these thinngs like if someone could shed some light

gt-ss bit pricy but would the best option

gt2860r with either -5-7 not sure what these are like b ut sound good for $2700

so any help would be greatfully appreciated

regards kane

GT-SS's pricey?

The Aussie dollar buys over 90 Yen at the moment so its an awesome time to buy. The GT-SS complete kit brand new should cost you a touch over $3k delivered.

They will be more responsive than the 2860's and will easily accomplish the power you want.

My GTR is producing 320awkw on a safe tune with them at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2614346
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

517's arent as good as the GT-SS mate. Dont come close.

GT-SS comes in the kit remember, so everything you need.

You'll need to change the dumps though, the stock ones will hurt.

Stock manifolds are quite ok however

Dont get R32 N1's, they are shocking. There is a very good reason they are so cheap :P

Old design & shocking/poor response.

Its worth the extra $1500 for decent turbos.

everything else you have seems about right, except you want Nismo AFM's, not Z32's.

Otherwise you have to change intake piping and thats a mission if your on budget

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2614498
Share on other sites
gun32gtr Grand Master

gun32gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted
517's arent as good as the GT-SS mate. Dont come close.

GT-SS comes in the kit remember, so everything you need.

You'll need to change the dumps though, the stock ones will hurt.

Stock manifolds are quite ok however

Dont get R32 N1's, they are shocking. There is a very good reason they are so cheap :P

Old design & shocking/poor response.

Its worth the extra $1500 for decent turbos.

everything else you have seems about right, except you want Nismo AFM's, not Z32's.

Otherwise you have to change intake piping and thats a mission if your on budget

thanks alot mate, wasnt to sure of the r32 gtr n1 turbos.

about those air flow metres where could i find those?will i have to change plugs with them?

hks dumps be fine from nengun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2614655
Share on other sites
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

Boost controller, replace coils, while you are doing large upgrades...........

...replace oil pump , water pump and timing belt....get the bearings and bolts changed at the same time though.

Then after it has cost you $5000+ :) to install your $7000 :P dollars of parts you will need to upgrade

or pay some attention to the brakes and suspension......and after $3000 :O of this....

.....you will then need some rims and sticky rubber so you can get a 1/4 mile result...this would cost about

$4000. :O And you haven't finished yet.

Believe me ....cause these are the figures you are facing.....

If you are worried about $3000 wait until you finish your upgrades. :)

As far as the -5(2530) turbo's.....they are the best choice for 320AWKW's and you have to have the Poncams to get this figure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2618590
Share on other sites
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted
The 2530 is NOT the best choice for 320rwkw

They are the BAD choice

We have already established that earlier on

And i bet i can get over 300rwkw with the stock cams, thats my aim with the GT-SS, just a cam gear :)

He has stated he wants 320AWKW's not rear wheel.

I have the 2530's and am at 260AWKW's...I need Poncams to get me to 320AWKWS.

Or have I mis-understood his intentions?

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2618633
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
Boost controller, replace coils, while you are doing large upgrades...........

...replace oil pump , water pump and timing belt....get the bearings and bolts changed at the same time though.

Then after it has cost you $5000+ :) to install your $7000 :P dollars of parts you will need to upgrade

or pay some attention to the brakes and suspension......and after $3000 :O of this....

.....you will then need some rims and sticky rubber so you can get a 1/4 mile result...this would cost about

$4000. :O And you haven't finished yet.

Believe me ....cause these are the figures you are facing.....

If you are worried about $3000 wait until you finish your upgrades. :)

As far as the -5(2530) turbo's.....they are the best choice for 320AWKW's and you have to have the Poncams to get this figure.

Can i be your mechanic :) You seem to enjoy overkill...nothing really wrong with what you are suggesting i suppose...but id like to think that a GTR owner that is about to do these sorts of mods has a properly serviced car....so no need for new water/oil pumps, timign belts, coils etc etc

What boost have you up your thing for only 260kws with 2530s ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2618686
Share on other sites
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted
Can i be your mechanic :) You seem to enjoy overkill...nothing really wrong with what you are suggesting i suppose...but id like to think that a GTR owner that is about to do these sorts of mods has a properly serviced car....so no need for new water/oil pumps, timign belts, coils etc etc

What boost have you up your thing for only 260kws with 2530s ?

If you read the..........engine failure thread.... you will be suprised on how many people get into trouble

because they believed the odometer reading in there car.... :)

When you are searching for more horses, as stated many times you need the mods and then you need the supporting mods. If their is any doubt in your mind ,that, their could be some issues with the current oil pump or water pump, you need to fix this first.

The last thing I would hate is to recommend something when I do not know the state of his vehicle.

The last thing he needs is to spend money...and then blow his motor...because of a timing belt , bearing or bolt

due to poor maintence.

Roy...my boost is at 1.3 bar and I have a 7500RPM cut out.This gives me 330RWKWS..

Poncams I am hoping will get me to 300AWKWS :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2618726
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
He has stated he wants 320AWKW's not rear wheel.

I have the 2530's and am at 260AWKW's...I need Poncams to get me to 320AWKWS.

Or have I mis-understood his intentions?

:)

AWKW and RWKW is the same thing... so im not sure how your confusing the intentions here.

I dont think you realise there is absolutely no difference between the two.

Dirtgarage tested AW & AW it, 1kw difference which is nothing but dyno variance at its best.

If you have 260 @ the tyres and your being told you need poncams for 320, then your mech IMO does not know what they are doing, time to have a chat with them or find another.

A stock turbo's GTR will pretty much make 260 @ the tyres. Let alone putting bigger turbos on it.

As stated, 2530's will net you around 370rwkw. They are not the turbo for 320rwkw/awkw or whatever other 4 letters you can think of

This information is all over the forum in a dozen different threads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2618739
Share on other sites
gun32gtr Grand Master

gun32gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i had in mind the oil pump,but as for timing belt water pump(n1) bearings bolts all done about 5k ago.... suspension ill leave for now,breaks aint to bad...

also i had poncams and gears as my choice already 260 9.1 lift so on... i think the gtss will do fine for what i want. and also the i alaways thiught awkw was the a rwkw 2..thanks for info guys keep it coming

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2618803
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
If you read the..........engine failure thread.... you will be suprised on how many people get into trouble

because they believed the odometer reading in there car.... :)

When you are searching for more horses, as stated many times you need the mods and then you need the supporting mods. If their is any doubt in your mind ,that, their could be some issues with the current oil pump or water pump, you need to fix this first.

The last thing I would hate is to recommend something when I do not know the state of his vehicle.

The last thing he needs is to spend money...and then blow his motor...because of a timing belt , bearing or bolt

due to poor maintence.

Roy...my boost is at 1.3 bar and I have a 7500RPM cut out.This gives me 330RWKWS..

Poncams I am hoping will get me to 300AWKWS :)

Again point taken...but what your suggesting isnt a common denominator. You dont have to do what you have posted for it to be reliable, provided you know the history of the car, which i would say most owners know, or mechanics can inspect. But agree, if you dont know the condition of the car then hold off on the mods until you have owned it for a while

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140315-new-setup/#findComment-2618804
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • MBS206
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't think he's got it on a gauge and on the ECU. I think he's got it on the gauge and on the HPTuners DAq thingo. Remember, we're talking about oil temp here, not something that the ECU is actually interested in for its own sake.
×
×
  • Create New...