Dr30 Front And Rear Brakes In Comparrisson With Mr30

[Blue Dynamite]

Hi peeps, I'm considering purchasing some DR30 front and rear brakes for my project MR30 that is anticipating an RB20det engine transplant. How big are the DR30 front and rear brakes in comparrisson with MR30 ones and how much of a difference do they make?

On another note, how strong is an R200 longnose LSD? Are they the sort of diffs to withstand extreme punnishment through many drift events? Because I'm looking at getting one for drifting competatively and want to be certain it'll deal with what I've got to dish out through it. I don't want to be paying $700-1000 a year (or whatever it is) to rebuild it. At that price, rebuilding the thing once every two years of drift-comp thrashing is what I'd be looking at as acceptable for my budget.

So what's the verdict?

Cheers,

Rick.

[discopotato03]

Larger diametre discs at both ends and calipers with larger piston diametres both ends as well . Pretty sure master cylinder was 15/16 bore as well .

Best bang for buck and bolt on fit if you buy for reasonable money . Nissan obviously wanted something better for DR30's than MR30's got .

Looking for some ?

Cheers A .

[Blue Dynamite]

Yeah, I've sourced a set, I just need to fund the money, but that is going to prove difficult now considering my car was bricked and since I don't have a job fundage might take longer than I want.

[stagefumer11]

Yeah, I've sourced a set, I just need to fund the money, but that is going to prove difficult now considering my car was bricked and since I don't have a job fundage might take longer than I want.

dr30 brakes will not mount on to mr30 and hr30 struts. the mounting points are to close (89mm) compared to the dr30 with 100mm. If you do wish to do a brake upgrade to them, you need the dr30 struts also

[Blue Dynamite]

dr30 brakes will not mount on to mr30 and hr30 struts. the mounting points are to close (89mm) compared to the dr30 with 100mm. If you do wish to do a brake upgrade to them, you need the dr30 struts also

I've heard this too, I'm looking at whole strut units actually- come with control arms.

While I'm asking, are the control arms the same? (will bushes swap over).

Are the struts themselves the same height? Do they offer any different offset with their steering arms?

-If not will 280zx steering arms swap onto mr30's? I've heard they add an extra 2-3degrees of camber to HR31's. Would this be similar with MR30's?

[discopotato03]

I've got a couple of struts complete except for the dampers . Also complete DR30 rear end / brakes / cables . Also rear Bilstein struts though the springs are probably a little firm at 235 In/lbs . Some spare caliper bits as well from memory .

[Blue Dynamite]

I've got a couple of struts complete except for the dampers . Also complete DR30 rear end / brakes / cables . Also rear Bilstein struts though the springs are probably a little firm at 235 In/lbs . Some spare caliper bits as well from memory .

Do you have the rear wishbones for the rear discs?

If so how much are you looking at for the parts?

If you're in Adelaide I might buy them off you tommorrow. Otherwise I'm looking at $500 for a pair of front struts and $300 for a pair of rear ones, includes dampers, control arms - absolutely whole units. How much would you be wanting?

Edited October 26, 2006 by Blue Dynamite

[Ghostrider]

Do you have the rear wishbones for the rear discs?

If so how much are you looking at for the parts?

If you're in Adelaide I might buy them off you tommorrow. Otherwise I'm looking at $500 for a pair of front struts and $300 for a pair of rear ones, includes dampers, control arms - absolutely whole units. How much would you be wanting?

MR30 Ti HATCH rear ends are Disc brake and are a direct bolt on swap.

The DR brake specs are:

1. Ten (10) inch Brake Booster (very hard to get in good condition today)

2. One (1) inch master cylinder (equally as hard to get today)

3. Rear discs are 290 x 10 solid as opposed to 258 x 10 (MR)

4. Rear caliper piston dia is 1.685 inches as opposed to 1.503 (MR)

5. Front rotors are 274 x 22 ventilated as opposed to 250 x 18 (MR)

6. Front caliper also much larger piston dia

Remember that if changing from MR/HR brakes on late models (84/5) to DR you will need new front brake lines (same as early models up to 83) because they use and need a distribution block that mounts on top of the booster. The late model MR/HR's have the distribution in the master cylinder and the biggest master in this derivative is 15/16 and the stock booster (servo unit) is only 9.5 inches in dia.

Cheers, D

[Ghostrider]

If you're in Adelaide I might buy them off you tommorrow. Otherwise I'm looking at $500 for a pair of front struts and $300 for a pair of rear ones, includes dampers, control arms - absolutely whole units. How much would you be wanting?

SSS Automotive in Girraween NSW 9896 6111 has DR front strut assemblies for about $500 a pair.

Be VERY CAREFULL with rear calipers. They are getting very old now and you should check the slop in the bearings (pivot) hand brake cable to caliper (lever adjusting cam), as if the needle rollers are either broken or missing, THEY CAN NOT BE REPLACED, as they were NEVER available as a replacement part.

For rear brakes, my suggestion is to source in Adelaide, the complete rear end minus diff etc from an MR30 Ti Hatch and pay thier price. You will get the handbrake cables, which you need as they're diferent to drum cables. For a road car, the MR calipers can be mounted into DR legs and you really won't notice much diferrence. Same time grab the disc brake master cylinder as if changing to a 15/16 you might have to change the valving for disc brakes. I have a 15/16 you can have cheap, but I'm not positive about the valving so it would have to be checked against the Ti hatch m/cyl.

Cheers, D

[Blue Dynamite]

Ghostrider,

You have given me allot of really useful information, thankyou!!!

I should probably upgrade all my piston/bores if I'm going to be using these DR30 front discs, i.e. do the master cylinder as well. (I might look into buying yours), I know I'd be using a 7/8's otherwise and upgrading that should be a priority to me. I'll probably keep the brake booster stock for the time being but if I can get a DR30 one for the sake of it (cheap) then I might. (my preference still lies with the MR30 one)

*Edit- the project r30 is an 83 I think, hope! I'll check, if not, wouldn't it be just as easy to bend the brake lines just enough to suit the different master cyl?

Thanks!

Rick.

Edited October 28, 2006 by Blue Dynamite

[Ghostrider]

Just put a vernier over the front calipers & the DR pistons measure 2.325 inches as opposed to MR 2.126.

Hope this helps.

Take some good advice, these DR brakes are THE BEST bang for the buck available. Fit them with EBC Green pads or Bendix Ultimate up front & EBC blacks on the rear and you will have extremely good braking with 15/16 m/cyl and stock booster.

Slotted rotors are available for DR but you will find the front number on DBA's listing under Z31 & rears too, but rears on Z31 have a different hat height and a 4 or 5mm spacer washer will have to be made up to compensate for the different height.

Cheers, D

[discopotato03]

Sorry not in SA in Sydney and can do better than $500 . Will PM . A arms and R200 half shafts are most likely spoken for .

Cheers A .

[the big JC]

im supprised no one has said anything about the R200's yet from what i know they are a very good and tuf diff

[datto_boy]

And ive got one for sale in SA

[Ghostrider]

im supprised no one has said anything about the R200's yet from what i know they are a very good and tuf diff

What have R200 Diffs got to do with DR30 brakes & the comparison to MR30?????????

[Ghostrider]

Sorry JC, didn't read the full thread.

It's a strange question about diffs as Nissan haven't built an R210, or R220 etc etc etc so I guess most would understand the R200 is the ducks guts in IRS Nissan rear ends.

Problem with R200 diffs is you need the half shafts as well and then it's usually big bucks, as the diff is much bigger and heavier than the R180 and the half shafts are shorter for that reason.

Bottom line, R200 LSD's are the best of the best.

Cheers, D

[Blue Dynamite]

But is there a clear difference in perfomance between viscious coupling 3.7:1 (from a 300zx-t) and the typical clutch plate R200?- which I reckon I can get cheap enough.

I've bought the front brakes now, got two whole front strut units inculding working dampers for $400, which I thought was a fair trade. I have become exceptionally reluctant to trade interstate now considering the first and last time I sent something (just recently) where the packages didn't arrive and am now looking at re-embersing half of what the guy paid to secure myself from legal/harrassment issues, leaving me with a mere $25 on top of what I already paid to have them delivered. (Aus Post)

On the other hand, I would be more inclined to deal with something small and cheapish. However since we were talking about a 15/16 master cyl, I noticed one in a 280zx at my local U-pull it wreckers. Would this be compattible with a standard MR30 brake booster?

Some 280zx half shafts should be compattible with the standard clutch-type R200 lsd's because they are of the same year as the DR30 lsd units and therefore should carry the same half shafts? I'm probably missing something right? I am just going off of the link below.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

According to the link, 280zx half-shafts were incompattible with the viscious coupling LSD's because they have shorter diameter splines as they were of a different era. But the DR30 is of the 82-84 era, the one before the viscious coupling LSD's were designated with the larger splines for? Shouldn't this at least mean R200 half-shafts from a 280zx would be compattible with an r200lsd from a dr30 in the rear end of an mr30???

I am so confused and exhausted!!!

This has also been a thought in my head for a while now and I really want it adressed.

[Ghostrider]

But is there a clear difference in perfomance between viscious coupling 3.7:1 (from a 300zx-t) and the typical clutch plate R200?- which I reckon I can get cheap enough.

I've bought the front brakes now, got two whole front strut units inculding working dampers for $400, which I thought was a fair trade. I have become exceptionally reluctant to trade interstate now considering the first and last time I sent something (just recently) where the packages didn't arrive and am now looking at re-embersing half of what the guy paid to secure myself from legal/harrassment issues, leaving me with a mere $25 on top of what I already paid to have them delivered. (Aus Post)

On the other hand, I would be more inclined to deal with something small and cheapish. However since we were talking about a 15/16 master cyl, I noticed one in a 280zx at my local U-pull it wreckers. Would this be compattible with a standard MR30 brake booster?

Some 280zx half shafts should be compattible with the standard clutch-type R200 lsd's because they are of the same year as the DR30 lsd units and therefore should carry the same half shafts? I'm probably missing something right? I am just going off of the link below.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

According to the link, 280zx half-shafts were incompattible with the viscious coupling LSD's because they have shorter diameter splines as they were of a different era. But the DR30 is of the 82-84 era, the one before the viscious coupling LSD's were designated with the larger splines for? Shouldn't this at least mean R200 half-shafts from a 280zx would be compattible with an r200lsd from a dr30 in the rear end of an mr30???

I am so confused and exhausted!!!

This has also been a thought in my head for a while now and I really want it adressed.

Let's get the first bit out of the way.

The viscous R200 is best suited for the role of a boat anchor, you can buy them cheap because they just don't break.

I have a viscouse R200 3.692:1 you can have for FREE, comes out of S13, 14, R32, 33.

Mechanical 1.5 & 2 ways are the BEST. Remember Nissan used LSD's as a marketing tool rather than a performance option in the 80's, because a mechanical R200 ex factory did no more than a single spinner, but it can be upgraded where the viscous, you get what you get and can't be upgraded.

As for the 280ZX half shafts, I don't know but measuring them will tell you one way or the other.

The 280ZX master cylinder is I think the same, but mine is NEW and the one you found in U PULL IT is far from that, but you do what you like. I can send it COD if you like.

D

[the big JC]

can you get mini spools for the stock MR30 diffs and on another note do you need a different drive shaft to run a r200 longnose in an MR

Edited November 6, 2006 by the big JC

[Ghostrider]

can you get mini spools for the stock MR30 diffs and on another note do you need a different drive shaft to run a r200 longnose in an MR

PARDON!

Why the F@#K would you want a locker in an R30???

Drive it on the road and instant destruction of at least tyres and then probably axles etc.

Why not get the real deal? As in an LSD.

Cheers, D