Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a company designed a single turbo kit for the ls1... first run was a 10sec and cant run again till they put a roll cage in lol. there is also a twin turbo VS thats runs 9s.

anyone know v6 vengence? that was done on the cheap and it runs high 11s.

for VS, VT, VX V6s, rebuildin the engine with stonger internals are almost a must. anything above 8psi or so things turn more to luck than anything :rolleyes:

get on the commodore forums and go from there.

Edited by Freddy Kruger
  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If your really are serious the Supercharged Buick based V6 would be a good start . As is usually the case it had lots of detail changes to make it reliable with forced induction .

In America the Buick Grand National (GN) is a popular car to play with for some and there are lots of bits produced for them in the aftermarket . On the face of it 3.8 litres would probably be fine turbocharged as its 1.5 times the size of an RB25 so would not need to be in a very high state of tune to make fair torque . The USDM version was 4.1 litres from memory so the more the merrier .

At the risk of sounding like a walking advertisment for GCG , Brett said a while back that he was thinking of producing a kit for V6 Commode Doors based on the GT3582R so you could ask him .

Cheers A .

you much better off looking into a paxton/vortech head unit with some custom mounts and supercharging.

Much easier than getting custom exh manifolds made and f**king around getting a twin down pipe system to work. Not too mention turbo water/oil provisions etc.

Haha, yeah I find it pretty ironic :(

i would hardly say it works out crap...

sometimes people on here are quick to diss anything which isnt a skyline.. which is pretty funny when a lot of people are driving stockish 33's

http://www.raptorsc.com.au/

talk to this guy - I know him quite well, and he knows his shit.

No, they're complete and utter shit.

Get on Street Commodores, or Just Commodores.

The guys who are running those superchargers are getting some impressive figures on the dyno. But not ONE of them, can run a decent time. Guys with a tricked auto, cams, and exhaust, are running quicker times.

Those superchargers are absolute rubbish, power is WAY too high up in the rev range ABSOLUTELY USELESS power in other words.

As for turbo charging the Buick, VN - VR, beautiful engine for it. With a compression ratio of 8.5:1 they love some boost.

Snort performance are selling bolt on kits for $5000 (Haven't yet seen them used overly as they're a new kit), with everything required, except the retune (Injectors, manifolds, turbos the lot) (There are also a few other places starting to make kits, for the same price and same pieces)

The VS - VY engine is a bit of a different fish. Whilst still based on the same design. A lighter weight material was used to build it, and it also sits basically, at the minimum specs that it can. Hence, it is quite well known to punch a whole in the block at 12PSi. Whilst it's earlier buick 3.8L will run for a year or two on 12PSi without showing a single issue.

With just a bolt on turbo kit, and running 12PSi down the throat of a buick, for $5000, you're going to be expecting around 200RWKW.

When you get bored there, pull the heads off have them high flowed and ported, get a good size cam, and then send the intake manifold away to be smoother out. Whilst the heads are off, and cam is being done, upgrade the valve springs, seats, retainers.

In the end, around $8000 with turbo kit, and top of the engine done, and you're going to be up near 300RWKW.

Now, I currently own a VR V6 Commodore, (Hence, I know ALOT about them, I grew up with them) but I worked it out, VR Commodore, worth around $5000 at max, add $8000 to be pushing up at around a max of 300RWKW, with the bottom of the motor still standard (So a touch stressed) you've just spent $13 000. You still have standard crappy brakes, boat like suspension, and standard gearbox. Gearbox isn't such an issue with a manual (Clutch might be) but for an auto, it will be. So factor in another $2000 (MAX) there for a good shift kit, and heavy duty bands and clutches in the auto. But, now your car goes in a straight line, but won't turn.

Now go and have a look in the for sale section at the price of R33 S1 Skylines. Same vintage car basically, (Touch newer). For a stocker, you may only be making 130-140RWKW, but the suspension is far superior, the brakes 10times better. And 200RWKW is only a FMIC, exhaust, boost controller and tune away.

And hence, you can now figure out why my VR is for sale, and parked on the front road, whilst my R33 is now in the garage.

Whilst a commodore can be made to go hella quick in a straight line, for not overly huge dollars in my opinion, you still have other limitations. The Commodore was built on a "family car budget" and hence, pieces in the drive line are NOT tricked up, and WILL need upgrading.

No matter what you do to the Commodore, it will ALWAYS be a family car.

But, for a simple answer, turbo kits start at $5 000, and then you need to start to fix things up as they break.

Could get a VL engine crossmember, then fit any RB engine, for a VT/X you would need a RB25DET NEO or R34 RB26 as the engine is the same age as the car, not older.

For a VN you *should* be legally (for the age anyway) allowed to fit any RB engine

Could get a VL engine crossmember, then fit any RB engine, for a VT/X you would need a RB25DET NEO or R34 RB26 as the engine is the same age as the car, not older.

For a VN you *should* be legally (for the age anyway) allowed to fit any RB engine

GAH! Bullcrap and rubbish!

You can fit any engine, to any car legally.

Where the problem lies, is you need to get the engines emmissions up to which ever is newer.

Hence, if you have an old school engine from a 1970s car, and drop it in a 2000 model car, you must get your old school engine, upto the emmission standards that were in place in 2000.

Hence, many people say you can't drop an old engine in a new car, as it's much easier to put a newer engine in, and KNOW it will meet the emmisions since emmisions get tighter and tighter each year.

Also, the engine bay in a VN/VP is actually setup for an RB25DET. Holden were originally going to run it, but as a last split second decision, dropped that idea and ran with the 3.8L Buick.

It was that much of a split decision, VN Series 1 engines, still have bits and pieces that are tell tale signs the engine was designed for a FWD (Came out of a Buick FWD...) (Tell tale signs are locations of hoses, sensors, thermostat, etc)

Could get a VL engine crossmember, then fit any RB engine, for a VT/X you would need a RB25DET NEO or R34 RB26 as the engine is the same age as the car, not older.

A VL crossmember will only fit into models up to and including VS.

Holden were originally going to run it, but as a last split second decision, dropped that idea and ran with the 3.8L Buick.

I hope the commodore forums dont spot the above comment, it will make this forum look nearly as bad as theirs.

Holden dropped a V6 buick in a late VL for testing purposes for the VN, an RB25det was never on the books.

A VL crossmember will only fit into models up to and including VS.

I hope the commodore forums dont spot the above comment, it will make this forum look nearly as bad as theirs.

Holden dropped a V6 buick in a late VL for testing purposes for the VN, an RB25det was never on the books.

Since I've actually come from the SC and JC forums (From when I was going to do my Commodore up) I actually picked that nice bit of information up on Street Commodores.

The V6 was a very last minute decision.

Hence, why when holden got some more time (Between S1 and S2) they managed to change the engine design around a little bit.

It isn't known by many, but there is technically 3 series of VN. Unfortunately, the first two series of VN, are classed as a Series one.

The first was released. It was an absolute torque monster down low. Holden realised this after many complaints of people loosing traction. They quickly changed the head and cam design and changed the tune again, this is basically the "series 2", but is not recognised as an actual series.

For my VR, I would have loved the VN S1 early model Cam and heads (And yes, they do bolt on although many people don't beleive it)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
×
×
  • Create New...