Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmmm , nope havent got a clue. You keen on a kit like that are you?

Yeah i'am keen on the front bar, i was going to get a different kit until i seen this one online it looks great, it flows with the car shape nicely. The orange paint work also looks great, but i'am after the kit.pm me if anyone knows what it is as i'am going to keep looking as i have not found it yet.

i would recomend palmwoods smash repairs guy there called wayne top bloke i couldnt not recomend him... top work for the amount he charges :teehee:

yea my mate has gone through him plenty of times and always comes out happy, its not perfect but deffintaly worth the money he charges.

soon ill be getting a full respray not sure if the same colour but would be good to source someone that can do a good cheap job :sweat: hard to find i guess...

Edited by Sr PWR
yea my mate has gone through him plenty of times and always comes out happy, its not perfect but deffintaly worth the money he charges.

soon ill be getting a full respray not sure if the same colour but would be good to source someone that can do a good cheap job :/ hard to find i guess...

You get what you pay for...

You get what you pay for...

speaking of getting what you pay for i just got a quote for a JimBerry clutch :/ Gotta save for an extra couple of weeks but should be awesome. Gonna get Marty to install.

yeah i got NPC clutch its good, havent had any problems with it yet but still running standard boost, its held up fine though for a 5 puck ceramic, a bit hard to get used to at first but after a while its great. im sure itll handle a bit of punishment once i mod it. payed around same for fitment. clutch was like $550 from memory.

if any 1 is looken for a job.... mechanic wise... guy i know is looken for some 1 willin to lern... >>>> 2nd-3rd year mechanic prefered << a bonus and will teach how to fit exhorst's

its nambour area

I didnt think a clutch would cost that much to fit. they only take about 3 hours. sometimes less.

Marty's doin it. hes gotta take out the clutch, send to brissy (freight charges involved) for JBC to build new one, machine flywheel, etc. then put it back in when it comes back up. Marty's hourly rate is pretty good too $70/hour i think. If it takes him less time than he quotes he wont charge it, same if it takes him longer. I don't mind payin when I know its going to be done right.

yeah i got NPC clutch its good, havent had any problems with it yet but still running standard boost, its held up fine though for a 5 puck ceramic, a bit hard to get used to at first but after a while its great. im sure itll handle a bit of punishment once i mod it. payed around same for fitment. clutch was like $550 from memory.

Yeah got a quote for $816 for an NPC thats why i went with the JB coz its pretty much the same $$$

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...