Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To be honest while i love the rb motors...you cant go past the fact the 1j and 2j have more potential, without having to replace more.
lol your a mechanic work its out :P

you might want to actually back up your statements on here before making up such bullshit.

but please do tell us how you did come to a conclusion the 1j engine is somewhat a better engine then the rb26?

and do remember... your talking to people who know somewhat 10x more about this kinda stuff then you do.

what is with you and getting a kick out of searching this thread for my posts? seriously dude...get a life much?

And if you so called know 10x as much as me about these cars then you should know that the 1j and 2j have more power at the engine then what a rb engine does when it has stock internals.

Comparing power to anything but the engine is stupid because they come from cars with different set ups the closet you can go is the RB25 and the 1j seeing that they are the same displacement and both drive RW drive car, the closet you can go to comparing the rb26 to is the 2j which in that case has completely lost.

I am NOT referring to a fully modified engine, and the first statement you quoted was in fact referring to the 1j against the rb25 as at that stage there was no mention on a rb26 at that stage in my posts.

If you didn't know that i suggest pulling you head out of the dark psychotic midst its in, shutting your mouth and do something good for yourself and research.

plus a person who knows 10x more about cars then myself, would know how to not blow a RB26 engine.

That is all i am going to say in reply to this and if you wish to take this further email me.

Edited by 000DNK
plus a person who knows 10x more about cars then myself, would know how to not blow a RB26 engine.

That is all i am going to say in reply to this and if you wish to take this further email me.

since this "person" replying knows so much about the rb26, you'd know by fault that the big end bearings go within the rb26 engines hence they blow easy. bawahahahahahaha

90% of rb26 engines are rebuilt because of the big end bearings otherwise they are modified before they blow.

RonaldMcGTFO.jpg

btw, i read through this thread daily.

just found what you posted to be funny.

Another reason why the 1jz and 2jz have more potential without having to replace more as i first stated :bunny:

i would also appreciate if you would cut the language out as there is no need for it and i do find it quite offensive.

Edited by 000DNK
Another reason why the 1jz and 2jz have more potential without having to replace more as i first stated :bunny:

i would also appreciate if you would cut the language out as there is no need for it and i do find it quite offensive.

LOL!!!!

The 2jzhas the potential to anything like any engine but at the same time, it still needs modifications done just like any other engine to get its power figure. a rb26/30 has the ability to produce something of the same power a 2jz engine does.

LOL

you need to do some more researching.

just been reading though this, and i noticed a comment "ohh and btw... the gearboxes in the 2jz and 1jz can't handle the power figur a rb25 can handle" quoted by Jjay, believe it or not the R154 can handle in excess of 500rwhp without a single modification, and the V160 and V161 supra 6 speed boxes don't need to be modified until 850+ rwhp, whereas the humble RB25 gearbox will start throwing 1st and second gear at about 400rwhp. back to the drawing board i think. my 2c worth

Farrk me what a shit fight...here we go again.

JJay and Andrew, both w58 and r154 toyota gearboxes have there issues, and so do Rb25 gearboxes,It goes to how you treat them,(flat changing is not really good for any gearbox for that matter) not necessarily how much power you are putting in front of them BUT how much torque , you know the stuff that makes your engine twist when you blip the throttle on idle??

You can run way more than 400hp on a rb25 gearbox...Many of you may not know that they have the same bearing diameters as GTR gearboxes, but with less grip of a 4wd car they are quite strong in a rear wheel drive car.

A Rb25 gearbox is basically the same as a GTR box but without the transfer case.

The Toyota boxes aren't too bad either, but they tend to get a broken washer or shim in them which causes gearbox to jam, a factory fault i believe but makes it worse even with minor hp increases .

The Getrag 6 speed is the ducks nuts for toyotas, can withstand coupious amounts of torque and power, but once again how you treat it is a major factor.

So anyone going to the track day on saturday at willowbank? I am but not racing,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...