Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

reason im asking is because im about to JCI my cefiro here in Japan and for some reason its registered as a 300 plate not a 500 plate. which is a bit more money, i have seen many other cefiros with a 500 plate, and to my eyes i saw no difference that would justify a 300 plate (ie wider body, more weight, bigger engine) my car currently has a RB20E the weakest of the weak.

so is there something im not seeing?

my car -

1992 Cefiro

RB20E

Round style headlights

any help.... many thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140807-cefiro-zenki-and-kouki-difference/
Share on other sites

yeah ignore that... long story short i wrecked my Skyline on the touge while me and a few japanese guys were having a bit to much fun. one of the guys who felt a bit responsible, you know how the japanese are, well he had a cefiro lying around and said i could have it.

i picked up a SR20DET my friend ha lying around, and as soon as i JCI this thing ill bring it back up to speed litterally... total project cost so far- maybe $100 for cefiro conversion harness rest was free. oh and JCI. moving on...

Edited by 4DoorWhore

ok so i found out my 92 cefiro is 10mm total wider than a 91 and before. still not enough to make it a 300 plate... hmm oh well im going to the Land office and im going to make them change it... wish me luck...

thanks for the find toffy!

AFAIK, zenki and kouki is early and late model?

I have noticed that the automatic center console changed shapes between early and late models, all the manual consoles I've seen look the same style as the early autos, but I can't be certain I've seen a late model factory manual.

Anyone else noticed this?

Also, I've noticed a different style of instrument cluster (different font for the numbers). Not sure whether this is a early/late difference or a badge difference (ie cheap model versus expensive upper model).

yeah these are the differences i would like to document in this thread... i have a 92 which is the latest of the A31 models i will take some detailed pics of the interior and body soon.

*** oh and as for my quest for a 500 plate i found out that my car is about 7cm too long. and .5cm to wide on each side. and we are guessing 70kilos over weight but that is a rough estimate.

solution: take off the moldings which seem to be bigger this year. and remove the metal crash bumpers (bars) and stock bumpers and replace with FRP pieces.

Resin: 500 and 300 classify the class your car is in when it is registerd in japan. best example is, a S13 silvia is a 500 plate cause its a normal sized car, and a S14 silvia is a 300 plate beacause its a little wider than usual and heavier and longer. is you add more than 3cm to widen a 500 plate it will become a 300 plate.

the plate number determines a few things but the main thing im consernd about is the extra cost of the larger car. such as higher price for road tax etc... there are many sub classes in between but since i am military i only apply to those two and K cars which are really cheap cause there so small. hope this helps im not to good at explaining things.

might as well post this pic since you can prolly see some differences..

DSC01272.jpg

Edited by 4DoorWhore

no haha i just have a parking spot, next to the hearse, at the Auto-shop where i do all the work on the car... that hearse has been there forever, definatly somthing you dont see in japan though..

fyi: white wheels arent permanent... eek

Edited by 4DoorWhore

RB20E eeeeeeew :rofl:

although for shits and giggles I have a Holden RB30E rocker cover that'll fit onto it straight on... and then you'll have a HOLDEN powered CEFIRO!

That'll impress the nihonjin :P

RB20E eeeeeeew :rofl:

although for shits and giggles I have a Holden RB30E rocker cover that'll fit onto it straight on... and then you'll have a HOLDEN powered CEFIRO!

That'll impress the nihonjin :rofl:

SOHC and all huh i would pay you for it, just to get a few laughs... wonder what shipping would be...

Edited by 4DoorWhore

off topic mate, but military eh? which kind of military :(

yeah these are the differences i would like to document in this thread... i have a 92 which is the latest of the A31 models i will take some detailed pics of the interior and body soon.

*** oh and as for my quest for a 500 plate i found out that my car is about 7cm too long. and .5cm to wide on each side. and we are guessing 70kilos over weight but that is a rough estimate.

solution: take off the moldings which seem to be bigger this year. and remove the metal crash bumpers (bars) and stock bumpers and replace with FRP pieces.

Resin: 500 and 300 classify the class your car is in when it is registerd in japan. best example is, a S13 silvia is a 500 plate cause its a normal sized car, and a S14 silvia is a 300 plate beacause its a little wider than usual and heavier and longer. is you add more than 3cm to widen a 500 plate it will become a 300 plate.

the plate number determines a few things but the main thing im consernd about is the extra cost of the larger car. such as higher price for road tax etc... there are many sub classes in between but since i am military i only apply to those two and K cars which are really cheap cause there so small. hope this helps im not to good at explaining things.

might as well post this pic since you can prolly see some differences..

DSC01272.jpg

ahh i still havent taken pics... sucks when you can just walk outside your house to look at your car... i need to finish the damn registration...

anyways.. to answer you question... im in the US Air Force, stationed at Yokota AFB here in japan. The easiest way for me to get to japan was to join the military.

Behold the mighty holden RB30ET:

rb30et.jpg

RB30_0303_1.jpg

Seems like the rocker cover I had access to has been sold... but if you want one, it can't be too hard to source.

i have a 92 which is the latest of the A31 models i will take some detailed pics of the interior and body soon.

They made at least a few in '93, I own one. Also with an rb20e ;) At least it isn't a ca18i.

Edited by open24hours

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • She swallowed the spider to catch the fly.
    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
×
×
  • Create New...