Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have a RB25/VG30 Hybrid GCG Hiflow Turbo sitting on my desk to go on my R33 gtst. (Been sitting there for 6 months now :laugh: )

I have a dilemna...

I cant afford to buy an ECU and injectors for quite a while it seems, and I'm wanting to do a whole lot more trackdays. I'd like to put the turbo on so I don't blow the ceramic stocker (1. so I can still drive it and 2. so I can sell it as a working turbo)

I will eventually get the ECU and injectors, but in the meantime...

Can I do it?

I know its not the ideal solution, but?

How/can I run less than stock boost? Will I need to?

What will I ned to run the turbo, I was thinking of the following;

Tomei/Nismo Adjustable FPR

HKS Adjustable Actuator (GCG has 10psi R32 on it, maybe I should use the 7psi stocker)

Currently I have;

Rechipped ECU (By Toshi, more agressive timing and richer I think... and no speed cut) Pretty similar to Jap chipped ones I guess.

TBE

ARC SMIC

Splitfires

Bosch 044 pump

Will be adding an oil cooler shortly also.

Feedback???? Please

Seems to me if you flow the same amount of air through the donk it'll use the same amount of juice and run ok on the existing ECU. So I reckon you'd be ok as long as you don't up the boost over what you're currently running. Mind you I'm not an expert.

^^ Thats my thinking also, I just don't know how much more air the turbo is gonna flow at the stock psi. Wanna know if someone else has done it and their results, surely some of the auto guys have done this without an safc or the like?

^^^ How much more air CAN it flow at stock psi? Think about it. If the manifold pressure is the same the amount of oxygen in the manifold will be the same,as long as there's no change in temperature. If the temperature drops due to the new turbo being more efficient then yes there will be an increase in charge density. I think you should call GCG on Monday. Surely they could give you an answer.

MAte you shouldn't have a problem

I have the GCG Hiflow with my stock ecu and its running fine.. the only thing is if i run more than 10 PSI i think it's either hitting boost cut or R&R, but your car will run fine otherwise.

Also with the hiflow i found my car revs much smoother.

I was in the same boat as you.. couldn't afford PFC and tune yet so but had time off work to remove old turbo and put in GCG hiflow and was conerned about the sma ething.. but mine runs fine and better than before except hitting R&R high in the rev range when i gun it.. but i'm sure you can take it easy until you get your PFC i drive my car to work everyday.. no problems

Yeah, I'll definately get it on a dyno straight away to make sure the a/f ratios are safe. Not really fussed about the power, just need it to be safe.

My main concern was the turbo flowing too much and maxing the injectors. I guess I can only give it a go.

you will be running extremely rich and will definately need some sort of tunable management... maybe Toshi can remap it again to allow for the increased airflow? you won't have to worry about R&R as Toshi would have removed it? and as long as your not making over about 220rwkw (give or take) you should be fine with fuel supply... not sure how the SMIC will hold up with that power out on the track but you will see hey!

how come your getting the oil cooler? I did about 12 flying laps last weekend and didn't have any problems with oil temp... have you had some overheating at the track?

re the oil cooler, no overheating as yet... just being cautious. A little peace of mind I guess. (Ironic I know as I'm gonna try and run the hi-flow without an ecu, will check the ratios though)

The SMIC is pretty beefy, supposed to be good for 240rwkw or so.

Toshi said the tune should be good for 1 bar, not that the stocker would do much at that pressure, but I'm guessing the stock turbo would flow alot less than the gcg at 10psi.

My mate put a highflow on his NEO with stock ecu. Runs 10 psi without a hint of a problem.

It will flow more air at the same boost but I think what you have will allow for it.

Put it on. Take it to a dyno and wind boost into it until it stops being happy. That's not a slap dash approach, it's really what you should do.

I would suggest a 2nd hand AVC-R will help more than a FPR because you can monitor your injector duty cycle and increase the boost in a controlled manner.

Maybe a rising rate reg with a higher ratio if you can find the cash. This way you wont make it run like a rich arse pig off boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...