Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think T04 means that it will work well if the street is smooth.

But if you come across bad road conditions and offset bumps where the car hits a bump on only one side, then it will be harsher and you'll get less traction.

From my understanding, you will get less traction from a bumpy road only if you have lousy or screwed shocks.

no, funnily enough dave knows what he's talking about. increasing the stiffness using bars will reduce body roll which is good. but it also has the effect of reducing traction at that end. often when you have an understeering car, you run a stiffer rear bar. this reduces grip at the rear, and helps the front end turn.

So sway bars on a car with firm coilovers is not a good idea?

I wouldn't recommend it.

I have a set of adjustable swaybars spec'ed up by Roadholder Suspension. With my OEM suspension I ran them on the stiffest setting and they were great. Good balance, and still great traction.

When I went to Tein Flex, the tail would snap out at the drop of a hat. Even now, with the bars dialled as soft as they'll go, I still have problems putting power down around low speed corners. Part of it could be my pissweak tyres, but compared to pre-Flex I still get more slip.

What spring rates were you running with the Tein Flex?

And what thickness are your bars?

My spring rates are 5kg front 4kg rear, hence Whiteline recommended the 20mm rear bar instead of the 22mm rear bar, adjusted to full soft.

Are your spring rates and bar rates higher?

Well a friend borrows my adjustable swayabrs so when my car finally got back on the road i ran it for a few days without swaybars until i could install them again.

The car lit up the tyres like an animal. I thought the tyres must have hardened etc whilst it had been off the road. Put the swayabars back on and with the same tyres the car just hooked up like it used to. So?!?!?!?!?!

I wouldnt have expected it. As i read about drag guys removing them to save weight. If they affect traction then i cant see them doing that.

But it was even the same stretch of street that the thing all of a sudden found traction.

AS for losing traction with bigger bars. It could be right, but im not entirely sure. The bigger the bar then the less independent the suspension becomes with undulations/pot holes on one side of the car affecting the other side. But i dont htink that actually hurts traction as such, who tries to drive fast on crappy / bumpy surfaces?

Also if they reduced traction, why would race drivers bar up their car. An example i read about was the old Kmart team. Murphy like big spring rates in the car while Kelly liked less spring but more bar. Cars lapped within a poofteenth of one another so cant be that bad.

Personally i now run even bigger swaybars then most, and so far its all good. Maybe crashes over shitty roads more, but i cannot be sure as it was ages since i last drive the car and any car will feel rough after having driven a Jazz for so long recently

You have to differentiate between traction in a straight line (ie drag racing) & traction on a corner exit.

When both springs are in equal amounts of compression the anti roll bar has ZERO effect. It does nothing.

It is only when the left & right springs are in different amounts of compression (Or rebound) that the anti roll bar works. What it does is transfer load from the unladen side to the laden side (ie if you are turning right it moves load from the right hand side tyres to the left hand side). The effect of this is to diminish the amount of grip the car has. However, there are many other factors determining tyre grip, not least camber angles & tyre temps. This is where the anti roll bars help generate grip.

If you ever get to see a front wheel drive hatch on a circuit (eg a VW Golf is a classic example) you will often see that they run sufficiently stiff rear anti roll bars to completely pick up the inside rear tyre.

If you ever get to see a front wheel drive hatch on a circuit (eg a VW Golf is a classic example) you will often see that they run sufficiently stiff rear anti roll bars to completely pick up the inside rear tyre.

could you elaborate more on why picking up the side rear tyre is a good thing?

i was talking to another guy that sets up race cars (believes roll should be controlled with low speed bump) and he was telling me this is why swaybars are bad, cos under enough load the inside wheel lifts up. but if cornering load is that big and the inside wheel was still on the ground, there would be bugger all normal force on it to create friction, right?

thoughts?

Edited by salad

At the end of the day, we drive road cars which arent sufficiently rigid enough to really stress too much.

Everything with silly cars is a compromise. You can do it with it springs and shocks, but then the car will have trouble riding the different frequency road surfaces. On smooth stuff it may be ok. So comes bcak to what you want to compromise.

Im running pretty soft suspension with big bars, and im happy with it. Be interesting in the next few weeks when some friends drive it in anger and see what they think

In and of itself, it isn't. But you have to separate balance (ie understeer/oversteer) from overall grip. Front wheel drive cars (& GT-R's for that matter) have a poor weight distribution with the front end carrying 60% of the weight. Now all else being equal (it isn't, but lets pretend) the front tyres won't generate as much grip as the rears. So you need to kill some rear grip to balance the car. In the case of a front wheel drive car as long as you have sufficient rear grip who really cares if the inside rear is off the ground? It isn't doing anything after all....

The problem with the GT-R is that running a stiff anti roll bar, while it is fine for balance (Needed in fact) it hurts your traction off the corner because you can then buzz the inside rear on power down.

As for transient (ie damper) issues - these are different from steady state spring (& rollbar) issues. But you mate is right - low speed bump does have an effect, particularly on turn in.

Woah very interesting and complicated read.

At the end of it all, I still dont know whether to fit the sway bars or not given the current setup in my GTT.

My spring rates are 5kg front 4kg rear (Tein Super Streets set almost full soft), alignment done to SK's specs. Tyres are Falken FK451's which are pretty good. I have 24mm front and 20mm rear adjustable bars sitting in the garage.

Requirements: better handling overall, same-ish comfort and driveability on bad roads, dont want to lose it easily in the wet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update Issues 5 (plus #4) - 10 After making a claim about issue #4's missing part, DeAgostini Japan sent a whole new issue #4 and it arrived about 2 weeks after that. That was back in early March. It took another 4 weeks to receive issues 5 - 13 though. This update is for issues 5 - 10. Ove the 5 issues the front left suspension and most of the engine have been completed. The quality of the castings and fit of the parts is quite good, it seems better than DeAgostini's BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the Fast & Furious 2 movie, which (to me anyway) doesn't seem to have as tight tolerances or quite as accurate castings.  Each issue has a lot of info about the 1989 - 1993 Skyline range and other Nissan models from that era, but the focus is on the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo and the various racing it did in Japan, Europe (Spa 24hrs) and of course Australia. I've included some text translated with Google Lens in some photos and will add to them if there's anything worth including. 
    • If it's for a SR20, make sure it's not the American Poncams, might as well call them Poocams. Had a set in a friend's car, all scuffed up after a few track days. Like the metallurgy Tomei USA used is junk. Went back to JDM OG Tomei Poncams, no issues till now.   Tomei USA is not the real OG Tomei.   Random rant over, fk the US of A, bunch of c u n t s. 
    • Most of the industry in North America either runs on Siemens or Allen Bradley. I have two redundant S7-1500's on my desk right next to me for simulation. Siemens has been losing ground though since Stuxnet, as cybersecurity is a big thing. In my line of work that is federally regulated, you must by law have a cybersecurity management program in place and its audited and inspected every so often.  I work with Emerson PLC's daily (RX3i's) and have done large biogas/refinery projects with their DCS's. Their PLC's are somewhat OK minus the way they do PLC redundancy (You have to download on both PLC's separately every time you make a change )  As for their DCS's... you'll be limited financially first before anything else stops you. Costs are exorbiant at roughly 10x what it would cost you to do with any other system (e.g AB PAC).  1990's, those suckers are brand new haha! Kraft-Heinz (An old client when I use to work for an ESP) still runs Siemens TI505 PLC's from the mid 80's. Ohh how I don't miss working with those... you could only do a certain number of online downloads until it's "Change" buffer would be full and you would then need to go offline to do a full download. There was no warning of when this was coming up and it generally would happen when you would go in at 2am to make changes before production -_-.     
    • Unfortunately, not only is that not the case, one of the main "Selling points" of safety over comms is they clearly state in writing that there's no need to segregate safety networks from non-safety networks. It always gets intermingled with everything else on an ICS/OT network. 
×
×
  • Create New...