Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys and Gals

What is the best way to remove the oil filter of a R32 gtst

I have tried this stupid spinning clamp thingy, but it does not work too well as its a very tight squeeze and not alot of room, plus it doesnt really grip to well

If anyone knows the best way to remove it please let me know........

Im worried if i try with my hand and get it off, when i put the new one in, it wont be as tight and could slowly fall off

if anyone has done this with success then please let us know how...

thanks heaps guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141014-oil-filter-removal/
Share on other sites

You have a bit of room in the 32's, you could always get a claw tool, they are pretty good with a ratchet. But may anana try the old ways ie multigrips, screwdriver lol bit dodgy.

And when you put an oil filter on its only meant to be done up with your hand anyway, as tight as you can.

I found an awesome tool at autobarn i think it was (of all places) its a metal band style tool but with a threaded adjustor to tighten it once you have it slipped onto the filter. Works a treat. By the way your not supposed to tighten as tight as you can with your hand. You'll just have the same problem next time. Spin it till it grabs then nip it up just a little more, till its firm but not over tight. Check for leaks after you start the engine.

Edited by Godzilla32
I found an awesome tool at autobarn i think it was (of all places) its a metal band style tool but with a threaded adjustor to tighten it once you have it slipped onto the filter. Works a treat. By the way your not supposed to tighten as tight as you can with your hand. You'll just have the same problem next time. Spin it till it grabs then nip it up just a little more, till its firm but not over tight. Check for leaks after you start the engine.

Oil filter is suppose to be hand tight, not torqued.

if all else fails you can bash a screwdriver through the filter, one sometimes has to resort to this if previous owner or mechanic overtightened it.

there are a few different tools you can buy to remove filters, some work better than others.

With my skyline i've never had to use a tool to get the filter off, but other cars i've had to. i just removed my hicas including the solenoid in the engine bay, and there is now more room to get to the oil filter!

Take it to a mechanic and invariably they will weld the farker on. I tried everything to get mine off, including my filter wrench, which is now useless because I bent it so bad. Hopefully my mate will get it off with his wrench, otherwise its the screwdriver trick, if that fails, an oxy torch :) hehe.

Fixxxer

Well when you think about, you genrerally undo an oil filter with a ratchet right? So youd have to be realllly stupid to overtighten it with your hand or built like the hulk.... the thread does stop......

After the thing has been on the engine for a while the heat & vibration will tend to make it harder to remove.

As an aside don't the K & N filters have a lug on the end that fits a 1/2" drive on your socket set?

Also, the screw driver trick works, but remember there is no going back once you start. The metal skin of a filter is actually quite thin, so be careful.

yeah, i've had to punch a screw driver through one before on a GTI-R. bitch of a thing. didn't have a hammer either, and the screwrivers was one of those cheap arse 2-pieces ones which lasted all of about 3 whacks with a massive socket in the palm of my hand. stuffed the screw driver. lightly damaged the socket. got oil everywhere. but got the bugger off!

my advice is whilst it's bad to overtighten, it's worse to undertighten as an oil filter popping off makes a massive mess and may root your engine if your not quick enough to realise.

After the thing has been on the engine for a while the heat & vibration will tend to make it harder to remove.

As an aside don't the K & N filters have a lug on the end that fits a 1/2" drive on your socket set?

Also, the screw driver trick works, but remember there is no going back once you start. The metal skin of a filter is actually quite thin, so be careful.

No idae about the K and N filters, i just use a genuine nissan one. AT work we have oil filter tools, so instead of using my massive guns of steel i just get a oil filter tool on a 3/8 rathcet and off she comes in a few seconds....alot less f**king around :)

Yeah im not really a fan of the screwdriver thingo, leads to cuts if you arent careful lol

And the deal with mechanics making them tight.... if a car goes out with an undertightened oil filter, comes back with oil leaks, then we get in the shit for it.... Its safer to NOT lose your job over something so trivial, when most people dont know where their oil filter is let alone how to change it.

but yeah oh dont forget to make sure the seal from the old oil filter is not still on. otherwise oil goes everywhere and it gets messy.

yeah i took my car to the mechanic in my local are and asked him to do a oil change and to change the filter. anyways i got home and spoke to my naighbour whos and aircraft technician and he showed me how to do all the stuff myself. i went under the car to check the filter and it turns out that it wasnt replaced at all and that it was severely bent outa shape. it took me a solid hour to get it off. this mechanic is old and he really doesnt remember much about anything so i cant hold it against him ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah yep. I asked a auto electrician about getting a cheap rebuilt alternator vs a new one. He also said he used to it back in the day but it ended up costing similar to what a new one would and recommended getting a new one,.
    • Ah, to clarify if the car has already been tuned and has been modified and you want to go from a oem cat to a 100 cell or decat or vice versa.Are you saying that the car doesn't need to be tuned after a cat change if it's already been tuned?
    • This has been covered a bazillion times but google wet boiling point vs dry. Motul is only good when it's fresh, once it absorbs moisture it gets pretty average very quickly. So as above, make sure you change it if you're going racing. I run the Endless brake fluid in mind, but only because a mate is a distributor and it's cheap. It's not quite as good as SRF but I'm running 380mm rotors on a Skyline so it's not like they get hot.
    • That's the thing, they still add it and it makes fuel cheaper, implying adding 10% of it drops the cost of 91 by what, 5c a liter? I remember when it was barely half the price of 98. Because you know, 85% of what is in the fuel is way cheaper than 91 fuel is by volume.
    • Auto electricians that do repairs on automotive AC systems can source service kits. I don't know where they actually source them. I do know that there is one available for the R34 comp that I would need it for. If you have to pay someone to dismantle, clean and do needed repairs and fit kit contents, then you'd probably end up spending a good fraction of the cost of a new one. I would not be paying for that, because I would be doing it myself. My mechanic (bro-in-law) will happily source what is needed. Back in the day (like in the 80s and 90s), rebuilding an AC compressor was the standard approach, same as for starter motors, alternators, etc, because new replacements were v. expensive. After the China manufacturing boom and the rise of the disposable approach to everything, people just started throwing broken/worn stuff away and not rebuilding things.
×
×
  • Create New...