R33 Fuel Efficiency

[J_Red33]

agreed

i've got 265's on the rear, and i've been told they reduce economy, i find it hard to believe, but it's possible.

i have to say driving style makes a huge difference. when i first got the car, was getting 250 to a tank, now i've eased up a bit, getting around 320.

my most recent result is 13.3L/100kms. (1200kms on 160Litres)

Hmm well if that's ur economy then you've got a lot more fuel left in the tank than you think when you go to fill up. That kind of economy should get you around 400 klicks before the fuel light comes on, by which point you should still have at least 10 litres left.

[mad082]

know where you are coming from with the mountain bike vs roadie, but there are a lot more differences between a mountain & road bike which makes it an extreme case. The other major factor (& I should know being a keen cyclist myself) is air resistance at high speed as the tyre has to cut through a lot more air due to the substantial extra width as well as the chunky tread patterns that they use.

Taking into account a larger frame with thicker tubing bearings with a bit more resistance due to them needing to be more robust & a more upright seating position & we're talking a lot more than just the friction of the tyres. The only extra air resistance a car is going to have is due mainly to what's exposed below the body line, which is bugger all.

road bike frames are generally larger than mtb. the bearings are the same. and if you get a bike with 2" slick tyres, then change them to 1" slick tyres you will still roll tons faster. i am a qualified bike mechanic, so i know my stuff.

and when they first did the testing when they brought the grooved tyres into F1 they found that they lowered corner speed (which was the reason they brought them in) but they raised top speed down the straights. so to lower the corner speed more to try to lower the top speed they reduced downforce, which just raised the top speed more.

[chadr33]

I must have serious issues with mine?

My auto r33 when stock with pod and exhaust and 18" rims was flat out getting 300km to 50 litres in town and was always running sweet, (no fuel smell or missing). Since then have added safc2, t3\t4 turbo, fuel pump\ adj fuel pressure reg,15psi boost, and have had it dynoed 3 times and now, with a few full throttle runs to 110km\hr (approx 6 runs) the last tank lasted 250\50 litres.

I never use air con and always run bp ultimate, the car goes well and has been fully safc2 tuned on a dyno, I just coast around usually at low throttle, and don't spend much time at lights, as where I live there isn't that many and no traffic jams.

Have no idea why get such terrible economy as the car runs absolutely sweet as.

Should I replace the o2 sensor, fuel filter even if the car is running fine?

[ydawak]

yeah, a bit ON, OFF, Sidways, Stop. LOL.

But it only gets marginaly better when the missis drives it.

I know how your missus dirves.... LIKE U....

I am also part of the fuel consumption club. I get 320-340k on a tank of 55-60 litres (i think) And that is driving normally (for a skyline driver) but even when i go to work with the car 60km each way highway, it still isnt much better. I have FMIC, 3 inch from turbo back, highflowed turbo, ALL NEW TURBO SIDE OF THE CAR (manifold, O2, exhaust, Airlow metre, blah blah blah) and still lots of fuel. I have new fuel filter and am thinking about getting a new pump. I dont think that it is the pump though. I wish that we could figure this all out between us all and have a siple fix for everyone that would be nice. But i suppose it is all part and parcel of a performance car eh??

Anyway that was my 20 cents

I think that these forums are great though and i would like to pass on my appreciating to everyone that submits answer to any problems on this forum.... THANKS

[WogsRus]

YDAWAK

well you know i did teach her to drive. LOL. that might be the problem. I courght her spinning them in first the other day, trying to get infront of some trafic. LOL. DAM WOMEN.

Hay hows the car progressing, got the turbo back on ect?

I talked to my mate at Auto Solutions, to get the injectors flow tested $10 each. I might do mine over christmass to see. If any are bugared, then it's a cost of $30 and they wave the 10 inspection fee. plus $5 for all new seals.

I also got my ignitor and new loom to make the wasted spark. Hopefully this might fix some issues.

Edited November 10, 2006 by WogsRus

[MBS206]

ChadR33: Try running Shells 98RON fuel.

I threw a tank of BP Ultimate in mine, and it did nothing but misfire, fart cough, popped a flame or two also (When using gears to hold me back) and I got pretty shit economy from it.

I have so far found the Shell fuel to be the best (Have run Caltex, BP, and now Shell)

Also, someone on here mentioned, if you keep the revs below around 2500RPM when accelerating, fuel consumption drops majorly, but get much above 3000RPM, and the fuel will be used the same basically as if you rev out to like 5500RPM each gear.

Hence, I cruise mine, keep the revs down, barely touch the throttle when accelerating.

So far this tank (nearly 200KM) I've only hit boost once, and that was only 5PSi (My "low" boost is around 7-9PSi) and that was coming down a short freeway onramp from like 20km/h, and needing to get up to 100km/h to merge into traffic.

Normally I sit along way in vacuum even when accelerating (5mmHg is normally my "fast" accelerating vacuum)

[J_Red33]

road bike frames are generally larger than mtb. the bearings are the same. and if you get a bike with 2" slick tyres, then change them to 1" slick tyres you will still roll tons faster. i am a qualified bike mechanic, so i know my stuff.

and when they first did the testing when they brought the grooved tyres into F1 they found that they lowered corner speed (which was the reason they brought them in) but they raised top speed down the straights. so to lower the corner speed more to try to lower the top speed they reduced downforce, which just raised the top speed more.

Not meaning to offend, but if you can find a mountain bike frame this thin, I'll show you the bin it belongs in:

Just out of curiousity, do you happen to know how big a speed gain there was in going to the groved tyres? I'm not trying to say that the surface area has no effect at all don't get me wrong, but I did find that going just from chunky to slick style tyres on my mountain bike made a major difference & it does have thicker tubing than my roadie, the bearings are also bigger in the mountain bike, the road bikes are tiny.

I must have serious issues with mine?

My auto r33 when stock with pod and exhaust and 18" rims was flat out getting 300km to 50 litres in town and was always running sweet, (no fuel smell or missing). Since then have added safc2, t3\t4 turbo, fuel pump\ adj fuel pressure reg,15psi boost, and have had it dynoed 3 times and now, with a few full throttle runs to 110km\hr (approx 6 runs) the last tank lasted 250\50 litres.

I never use air con and always run bp ultimate, the car goes well and has been fully safc2 tuned on a dyno, I just coast around usually at low throttle, and don't spend much time at lights, as where I live there isn't that many and no traffic jams.

Have no idea why get such terrible economy as the car runs absolutely sweet as.

Should I replace the o2 sensor, fuel filter even if the car is running fine?

Yeah it's probably still a good idea if it's never been done, mine didn't really become problematic from a driving perspective until it was completely dead, car still ran perfectly.

[chadr33]

ChadR33: Try running Shells 98RON fuel.

I threw a tank of BP Ultimate in mine, and it did nothing but misfire, fart cough, popped a flame or two also (When using gears to hold me back) and I got pretty shit economy from it.

I have so far found the Shell fuel to be the best (Have run Caltex, BP, and now Shell)

Also, someone on here mentioned, if you keep the revs below around 2500RPM when accelerating, fuel consumption drops majorly, but get much above 3000RPM, and the fuel will be used the same basically as if you rev out to like 5500RPM each gear.

Hence, I cruise mine, keep the revs down, barely touch the throttle when accelerating.

So far this tank (nearly 200KM) I've only hit boost once, and that was only 5PSi (My "low" boost is around 7-9PSi) and that was coming down a short freeway onramp from like 20km/h, and needing to get up to 100km/h to merge into traffic.

Normally I sit along way in vacuum even when accelerating (5mmHg is normally my "fast" accelerating vacuum)

My auto will only change gears below 2500rpm if I really, really go easy on the throttle, even at light throttle it doesn't change gears below 3500 with the auto button at normal position.

[Munkyb0y]

Hmm well if that's ur economy then you've got a lot more fuel left in the tank than you think when you go to fill up. That kind of economy should get you around 400 klicks before the fuel light comes on, by which point you should still have at least 10 litres left.

yeah that was only my latest effort 13.3L/100kms. (1200kms on 160Litres), which included about 400 highway k's.

I generally dont fill it to the brim. usually put around $40 in. Driving around the city, partly heavy footed, will net me around the 14 - 15L/100 mark. I've done alot worse too. lol.

[mid life crisis]

i have a auto r33 and got 486 ks out of 56 litres i was waiting for the fuel light to come on wanted to see what i would have got out of a tank but had to head out for a fair drive so had to fill up .that was metro driving with a short run thru the hills . im pretty happy with the economy . it has improved since i resett the ecu and put a new 02 sensor in .it has lost it;s petrol smell at idle and dosent stall anymore

cheers midlife crisis