Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there are a few variables when testing compression, such as;

closed throttle

open throttle

number of cranks

hot test

cold test

so rather than testing for a number, look for even figures across the board.

eg: 140, 139, 141, 143, 140, 139

The compression on my old R32 GTR was 160psi just about dead on with all cylinders except one at 100psi. To check out a piston with lowish compression pour a few cc's (mls) of oil into the cylinder via a small funnel (you only need a little oil, too much is very very bad and may damage things). Let it sit for a few minutes. If the compression on that cylinder shows marked improvement once re-tested to the order of 25psi or greater you probably have worn rings.

That motor was 250,000kms old or so. And the bang on compression between cylinders is perhaps testimony to the fact that the aussie engines were blueprinted from the factory, unlike the jap domestic ones.

Well my GTR returned 150Psi across all cylinders. 6 months later I spun a big end. To read the bearings and to see the pitting on the cylinder head/pistons I say it had been absolutly hammered and seen lots of big detonation events and I can garuntee that it never rattled(detonated) or was run lean in my hands.

Imports are usually an unknown item.

A good result from a compression or leakdown test will verify the condition of:

-Piston Rings

-Head Gasket

-valve seating

-cracked head

-general condition of bores and pistons

it's a good overall test of motor as you would assume these components are in similar condition to the rest of the engine.

It MAY be able to identify damage to:

-pistons

-bores

-valve springs, guides or lifters - or rocker arms if it's an SR20 (maybe... if they are causing a valve to stay open)

(depending on if this damage is causing a drop in compression)

It will NOT verify the condition of:

-Bearings

-Crank

-Conrods

-Oil & oil pump

-other head problems such as stem seals.

You can have an engine with a spun big end bearing, and it could be using mud instead of oil and it will probably still give you a good compression reading! What i'm saying is it isn't a complete indication of the health of your engine.

A leakdown test can pinpoint the percentage of compression leakage and where it's leaking from, but it tests the same things that the comp test tests.

----------

A good example of a BAD compression test was the one I did on my daily driver before i rebuilt the engine.

Dry: 95psi 95psi 165psi 165psi

Wet: 165psi 165psi 165psi 165psi

A large increase in compression indicates piston ring problems...

Pistons 1 and 2 had cracked ring lands.....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...dia/piston2.jpg

^ if you look at the piston in the pic this was the damage....

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig
Is there any way to test the bearing, rods, crank, oil pump?

The bearings where scoured from detonation.

Pull the oil filter off and open it with a heavy duty can opener and look for copper material and or anything suss. If you find nothing then its still not an indication that the bearing's aren't damaged but it may be a heads up for damage allready done.

how is it possible to kill bearings from detonation?

don't you mean pistons?

bearings usually die from forign particles, lack of oil or just general wear / driving it too hard.

You sometimes get little black oval scours along the verticle parts of the bearings. They also loose their tension and depending upon how big the detonation you may actually crush the bearing.

Remember when detonation occurs the bearings are transferring the force to the crank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
×
×
  • Create New...