Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's what I do.

I tune the car at the fuel I will use everyday.

Which is Mobil Synergy 8000 (Yay for Fuel Cards!!)

Then, put a gut full of V-Power EXTREEEEEM RACING SICK BRO VTECH YO fuel in and take the car to your tuner.

Have then spin the thing up on the dyno and using the blanket adjustments in the PFC adjust fuel and timing to suit.

Then, when you want to go racing, put the fuel in, adjuste blanket timing and fuel numbers and go play.

that way you don't have to get nervous about going long distances and not have access to the fuel.

Also stops you from having it tuned with the good fuel and having to adust blanket numbers every time you get in your car.

:D

BASS OUT

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I use it in my car and it runs really well, Ben from Race Pace insists it is the only fuel i should run my car on after he tuned it.

Because if a car is tuned on 100+RON fuel, and then driven with 98RON, its like a car that needs 98 being driven on regular....knock time

Because if a car is tuned on 100+RON fuel, and then driven with 98RON, its like a car that needs 98 being driven on regular....knock time

Really? I have ran mine on 95 and it was fine. I didnt run out running big bolost or reving the hell out ot it. But it drove fine. No pinging at all. Though i wasnt game to give it a good few hits and try and get it to knock

Really? I have ran mine on 95 and it was fine. I didnt run out running big bolost or reving the hell out ot it. But it drove fine. No pinging at all. Though i wasnt game to give it a good few hits and try and get it to knock

lol well there you go. Drive the car how it was tuned to be driven, ie giving it some boost and I think its safe to say it'd ping.

We could probably all fill up with 91 RON and be fine, but as soon as soon as you hit boost i'd say it'd be all over.

lol well there you go. Drive the car how it was tuned to be driven, ie giving it some boost and I think its safe to say it'd ping.

We could probably all fill up with 91 RON and be fine, but as soon as soon as you hit boost i'd say it'd be all over.

But you dont need to drive around doing fully sick 7000rpm gear changers during everyday driving

Yeh thats my point. I gave it a few runs using 8psi (my lowest boost setting) and the thing drove fine. Not every drive down to the video shop is a GP :)

Though after doing it for a few weeks i thought to myself "stop beign such a tight ass, its only a few dollars extra a tank" but i did with no real probs.

Main reason i stopped doing it is i kinda guess if i was going to get a dodgy tank of fuel with water and crap in it, perhaps it was more likely to come with the crappy fuel?!?!?

But you dont need to drive around doing fully sick 7000rpm gear changers during everyday driving

Did I say I drive like that everyday?

personally I have only ever used 98RON, and I see no reason to use anything else. I knew the car needed premium when I bought it, so thats what it gets, and I do a lot of km's.

all this V-Power is just a marketing exercise. Its just the same Optimax and Optimax extreme but rebranded to go with the global Shell marketing name.

as long as everyone knows that optimax extreme has 5% ethanol.....and ethanol leans out mixtures by quite a bit.....

are u sure the v power is the new "optimax extreme" ?

i always thought the v power stuff was red at the bowser and is the replacement for normal optimax and that optimax extreme was still called that and avaiable

Well i just found out that it looks as though i am running ths straight V-power, not V-Power Racing.

I can say that there is no way V-Power is the same as Optimax, as there is no way my car use to run as well as it currently does on Optimax. Let alone the extra ignition the engine it is taking. My car normally ran better on the BP and Mobil fuel.

The fact that the straight V-Power is performing the way it is...im very interested in running the V-Power Racing.

Optimax and V-Max are different blends, with Shell now having removed the toluene that was used as an octane booster in Optimax. Both the V-Max fuels are blended to European emissions standards as well.

the PFC FAQ tells you how to use poor mans 91 and 93 ron fuels

ive done it a few times in shitty towns that have only pesant fuel. as long as you don't load the engine up and come on boost over and over it should be fine.

just watch the knock levels and keep backing more and more timing. it will flat as a $2 whore but will drive fine and get you out of a sticky situation

:sorcerer:

i got the beast tuned to 265 racepace rwkws on ultimate..

Ben suggested i use v-racing and i am very impressed with it so far...

car feels stronger and more responsive with v-racing as opposed to ultimate...

On my third tank...

i usualy get around 300kms on BP ultimate. I am getting 320kms on VPR... But my custom tune which was originally for BP 98 is working much better on VPR. Heaps more mid-range from my seat-o-pants meter.

Only thing I have noticed is at high RPM in 4th gear the car is tapering boost out earlier...

Yeah, its cause its leaning it out ever so slightly and your getting a little more power from it :P

Finer6

What mods are you running in your typhoon to get such low milage?

Nispro XR6t power tune... not the economy one (obviously) hehehe :rofl:

It smells like optimax and tastes like regular petrol.

I found shit-f**k-all difference between it and the old optimax in my r32... dad's aristoid got 20km's more, but I'm guessing that's coz he didn't give the 2JZ enough curry.

I prefer the BP Ultimate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys my 94 r33 gtst fuel pump has gone out. I have a walbro 525 ready to go in but am unsure if I need to upgrade the fuel tank bulk heads? Ive heard that others have issues with the stock wiring melting... Ive seen alot of people recommend this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-silvia-s14-s15-billet-fuel-tank-bulkhead-hat-top-an6-with-high-current-connector-apex-2-8-delphi-fpg-100?variant=42873255198898 My current pump that stopped working is aftermarket but I had no relay mod or upgraded connectors. Need some advice please. TIA
    • It’s new. It’s the cd009. I did take the transmission apart to mill down the bellhousing and had both housings come off the gears so wondering is something isn’t in right. I am running redline. I can get it in gear running too but it’s just not easier and it’s almost like 2, 4, 6, and reverse all the back gears aren’t happy going in
    • I’ll remember that as a last choice. It’s brand new
    • Got keys and did a walk around the yard planning the landscaping works with the family that I will be doing Main effort: remove all the woodchip in the gardens that are around (attached) to the outside of the house and replace with 10mm blue metal, having woodchip close to the house is a recipe for inviting white ants, currently there are no white ants within the block and I would like to keep it that way I'll be buying some large raised garden beds to grow veggies and stuff, and the woodchip will be mulched with everything else that gets dug up, pulled out, or cut down during works Next will some minor drainage and landscaping maintenance up one side of the house, where the fuse box, AC, and solar stuff will go, about 12 mtrs long by 2 meters wide, I'll break up the soil, add gypsum and then I'll dig in a French drains about 300mm deep x 300mm wide and fill it with agg pipe and blue metal, then level out the whole area with a 50mm layer of blue metal, the soil, whilst currently pretty compacted, will break up well with the gypsum to aid in drainage, I'll then cover the area with a 50mm layer of more blue metal In saying this, the drainage issue is minor, but that little hidden away area down the side is untidy and weedy, and as all of the main elec stuff is there I want it neat and tidy to appease my OCD Again, the material excavated from the French drains with be added to the garden bed mulch, as will some rose bushes and some other crap looking garden plants, and a old apricot tree that is looking worse for wear The apricot tree is currently in a little roundish garden bed that is in the middle of the back yard with few other crappy looking plants around it, that will all be removed, levelled, re-turfed, and is a perfect spot for a hills hoist There is also a area about 3m x 2m between the rear fence and shed that will get some attention, it looks like some stuff was stored there and the grass is dead, that will also get broken up and mulched, and is a prime spot for a pumpkin patch I've guestimated that I'll need: 3 tonnes of blue metal, 12 meters of agg pipe, 5kg of Gypsum, and a hills hoist, so a few bags of concrete as well to set it in place (the house currently has one of those pull out 4 line jobs, whilst it works, I want a retro old school hills hoist), I am also going to run some chickens, there's a great spot for a coop, so a chicken coop to suit 4 of those lovely egg laying bitches will also be on the job card That should keep me busy for a while, and will finish off the back yard ready for a early spring planting of some veggies and berries  Once the main effort is done I'll start out the front, there's a large rock garden that could use some TLC, but that is only minor works Should be fully moved in within 2 weeks, the landscaping works will start then Fun times, retirement is good  
    • It happens, that's what your single stage filler is used for.  If it is still visible after the 3 coats of 2k primer, it will be visible after the paint is laid down.  Its hard to give 100% perfect advice without being there in person, I'm very tempted to say stop where you are, fill your pin holes with a single stage putty first then keep going. 
×
×
  • Create New...