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I was planning to get JHH in woodridge to do the oil pump collar for me. However they can't have it done now till after christmas. Im using the standard oil pump and he thinks its not necessary to do the mod when using the standard pump. What do u all think? GTRgeoff says its a must and im pretty much 99% sure i'll do it but now this has thrown a spanner in the works. Where else in brisbane do they regularly do this mod? I dont want to use the Jun collar as they are more expensive.

Thanks in advance,

Deren

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I think its only the N1 that suffered soo much with this (problem is still there with stock pump though) but if your that worried dont go revving it hard untill you get it done just to be sure

I was planning to get JHH in woodridge to do the oil pump collar for me. However they can't have it done now till after christmas. Im using the standard oil pump and he thinks its not necessary to do the mod when using the standard pump. What do u all think? GTRgeoff says its a must and im pretty much 99% sure i'll do it but now this has thrown a spanner in the works. Where else in brisbane do they regularly do this mod? I dont want to use the Jun collar as they are more expensive.

Thanks in advance,

Deren

I was planning to get JHH in woodridge to do the oil pump collar for me. However they can't have it done now till after christmas. Im using the standard oil pump and he thinks its not necessary to do the mod when using the standard pump. What do u all think? GTRgeoff says its a must and im pretty much 99% sure i'll do it but now this has thrown a spanner in the works. Where else in brisbane do they regularly do this mod? I dont want to use the Jun collar as they are more expensive.

Thanks in advance,

Deren

talk to IVAN TIGHE Engineering in Wacol.

You can buy the collar from Proengines and either send your crank down to Queanbeyan (Near Canberra) to get fitted or get any old engine rebuilders/machine shop to fit it.

Having a standard oil pump has no bearing on whether you need the collar or not. That's a weird comment.

I wont be doing much revving at all seeing as my engine not to mention the whole car is completely stripped into about a million pieces.

Thanks for that contact 98SKY, cheers.

Abo bob: i thought so too. Thanks for the info mate :)

Edited by Godzilla32
I wont be doing much revving at all seeing as my engine not to mention the whole car is completely stripped into about a million pieces.

Thanks for that contact 98SKY, cheers.

Abo bob: i thought so too. Thanks for the info mate :)

Yeh talk to luke at Ivan Tighe cams.

Having a standard oil pump has no bearing on whether you need the collar or not. That's a weird comment.

It does as there are more failures with n1 pumps than std pumps. I was aware of this years back when I did my motor. Hence the reason for sticking with the std pump. Which was also suggested a wise idea from the engine builder.

And whats more interesting... The RB30et pump, I can't say I've heard of those breaking in the same way our dohc pumps break. :) Sure the majority don't see the same kind of revs but still, some have had their dohc pumps let go when cruising.

According to some one in another thread who had or did tests on the n1 and std pumps found the n1 pump to have hardened gears, however this causes the metal to become more brittle. Unsure exactly its in the rb30 thread I believe. Look there if u wish to see.

The RB30ET blokes have always used them.

There was a bloke on here running a td06-20g setup running the std rb30 pump. Sitting on the rev limiter at 7500rpm during massive burn outs and it hasn't let go.

Apart from that I really don't know how far the std pump has been pushed. These days calais turbo will be full of the dohc pumps where as before back in the early days of the rb30et's they would have no doubt pushed the std pump hard.

What did Bu5ter do with his rb30det setup? He hasn't had any issues that I know of.

Bu5ter below.

http://skylinesaustralia.vidiac.com/recent...004c1df333e.htm

It does as there are more failures with n1 pumps than std pumps. I was aware of this years back when I did my motor. Hence the reason for sticking with the std pump. Which was also suggested a wise idea from the engine builder.

And whats more interesting... The RB30et pump, I can't say I've heard of those breaking in the same way our dohc pumps break. :P Sure the majority don't see the same kind of revs but still, some have had their dohc pumps let go when cruising.

According to some one in another thread who had or did tests on the n1 and std pumps found the n1 pump to have hardened gears, however this causes the metal to become more brittle. Unsure exactly its in the rb30 thread I believe. Look there if u wish to see.

Just because N1 pumps fail more often doesn't mean that they are necessarily failing due to a lack of a collar does it?

Even if it does, maybe it just means that you are more likely to blow an N1 pump than a stock one but that still doesn't mean that you don't need one for a stock pump.

In the other thread, which I'm sure you guys are watching, the primary causes are pointing at the short drive land (stress concentrator), the hardness (brittleness in engineering speak where a "softer" steel is considered tougher) of the N1 pump rings and bouncing off the rev limiter (impulse addition that brittle materials don't like).

Have you got this done yet Deren?

Just because N1 pumps fail more often doesn't mean that they are necessarily failing due to a lack of a collar does it?

Even if it does, maybe it just means that you are more likely to blow an N1 pump than a stock one but that still doesn't mean that you don't need one for a stock pump.

You originally said

Having a standard oil pump has no bearing on whether you need the collar or not. That's a weird comment.

I said

It does as there are more failures with n1 pumps than std pumps

I didn't really get across what I was getting at... Poorly worded. :P

I was getting at that its a must one should run a collar. Be it N1 or std.

Nissan fixed it for a reason in their R33 GTR's and S2 R33's.

It shall be interesting what r33_racers failure was. As I think I mentioned earlier he ran a N1 pump, crank collar and ati balancer. Fingers crossed for all of us it wasn't the usual cracked internal pump gear and something else silly. :)

Because if it is then.... JUN pump or external is really the only option for high rpm reliability for us rb30 heads.

Do you have details for proengines? im going to do this mod to my car with the standard pump

You can buy the collar from Proengines and either send your crank down to Queanbeyan (Near Canberra) to get fitted or get any old engine rebuilders/machine shop to fit it.

Having a standard oil pump has no bearing on whether you need the collar or not. That's a weird comment.

This thread is strange. All of the oil pumps have the same drive width (about 15mm).

The early cranks only have 3mm drive on the pump, the later ones are more like 14mm. Even in only 2000klm of use I can see the wear on the pump I put in the race car from the short drive on the crank.

n1 oil pumps fail because they are treated so much worse than normal oil pumps - I don't believe there is design or manufacturing problem with them.

i just pulled my motor apart after 5000kms, had stock short drive crank with N1 pump. witness marks on the inside of the pump are about 2mm.

i just got a jun collar fitted for about $99.

i am going to sell my N1 pump and fit a tomei pump, cause my tuner just broke his 2nd N1 pump after just a couple of dyno runs and 3 drag runs, his car has 450kw and revs to 9000rpm.

cheers

Jeremy

This thread is strange. All of the oil pumps have the same drive width (about 15mm).

The early cranks only have 3mm drive on the pump, the later ones are more like 14mm. Even in only 2000klm of use I can see the wear on the pump I put in the race car from the short drive on the crank.

n1 oil pumps fail because they are treated so much worse than normal oil pumps - I don't believe there is design or manufacturing problem with them.

n1 oil pumps fail because they are treated so much worse than normal oil pumps - I don't believe there is design or manufacturing problem with them.

I totally agree. Mine was ok far as i know, over 8000 kms travelled before the motor was sold.

The car regularly saw 8000rpm and over 350rwkw for quite some time.

Both street and easily 50 drag passes.

The main thing i didnt do, limiter launches on sticky tyres... or just bouncing off the limiter in general.

I would have hit the limiter a max of 8-10 times in those kms/drag runs etc.

I've hardly heard of built RB's motors killing N1 pumps here in Vic.

But then, most of those are cars that see the circuit. Big RPM, but very very little limiter abuse...

But thats pretty much covered in the other thread about it all

we never saw limiter. done everything we could have to minimise the possibility of an oil pump failure. From talking to a few people and what ive read on here, the n1 pump gear is too hard and therefore brittle as stated before, they shatter too easily. Not only that the backing plates can and do rattle off easily as well if not locitited on. So apparently the n1 pumps do have inherent problems in their design. The aftermarket pumps(tomei jun) have gears constructed of a different material to make them more malleable so they dont crack but rather bend.

I will know tonight what caused ours to fail.

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