Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Swap

shoebox
 Share

Recommended Posts

shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
Posted

Has anyone tried putting a RB25DET engine from an R34 GT-T into an R33 GTS-T Series 2?

What do you think about it, and is it simple? What's needed to be done in such a conversion?

Can I continue to use the R33's ECU or must I replace it with an ECU from an R34?

The reason why I need to do this is because my current engine is in need of a rebuild or a replacement... *sigh*

Tried searching the forums to no avail... apparently no one has done it before, or it's too insignificant to be mentioned (?)

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/
Share on other sites
satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

LOL; the performance difference is minimal - arguable

RB25DET NEO and RB25DET are two different things; there's heaps of differences between the two. And these days; the cost of either one is about the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2632158
Share on other sites
shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The cost difference is about 1.5 to 2k, but the real reason why i'm thinking of doing it is to have the power of an R34 in an R33... especially after my R33 engine needs replacement. :yes:

As far as i can see, they're both the same engines with the same wiring diagram, except that the RB25DET NEO has a NEO head, and power difference is about 22kw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2632633
Share on other sites
satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Have a read of Abo Bob's NEO thread - it'll show you that the R34 motor is a lot more than a R33 motor in many ways :yes:

but then; "People don't do it because the performance difference between the R34's RB25DET NEO and the R33s RB25DET is minimal"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2632676
Share on other sites
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Why have one turbo when you can have 2?

RB26 :(

Or if the budget doesnt stratch that far, use your existing RB25 head/turbo etc and get an RB30 bottom end (cheap as)

There are heaps of people that have done this and have done it on the cheap, also the power levels seem quite good :yes:

Read this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1920659

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2632687
Share on other sites
shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why have one turbo when you can have 2?

RB26 :)

Or if the budget doesnt stratch that far, use your existing RB25 head/turbo etc and get an RB30 bottom end (cheap as)

There are heaps of people that have done this and have done it on the cheap, also the power levels seem quite good :(

Read this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1920659

Yea.. my budget doesn't stretch that far, or i'll be doing the GTR conversion already! :yes:

I thought of getting an RB30/25 hybrid conversion too, but RB30 engines are pretty old at this point in time, and i'm kinda concerned about reliability.

I agree about the performance difference though, but i rather have a newer engine than save that bit of money and end up with an exact same old configuration as before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2632724
Share on other sites
ronnydotk Contributor

ronnydotk

Posted
Posted
Yea but i don't think i'll be going the forged internals... a bit too expensive :sick:

Hmm.. back to the original question.. has anyone done it before?

Is it as simple as fitting in a RB25DET from an R33?

a mate of mine did the RB30 with RB25 head and he's not looking back. although he did it into a VL so i'm not sure how easily the 30 block goes into a R33 bay.

as far as the NEO or standard R33 25DET they should all mount onto the same cross member without to much fuss, if anything you may need to swap the engine brackets over to the old R33 RB25DET ones if you go the neo option.

i'll go in favour of the NEO conversion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2640286
Share on other sites
shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
a mate of mine did the RB30 with RB25 head and he's not looking back. although he did it into a VL so i'm not sure how easily the 30 block goes into a R33 bay.

as far as the NEO or standard R33 25DET they should all mount onto the same cross member without to much fuss, if anything you may need to swap the engine brackets over to the old R33 RB25DET ones if you go the neo option.

i'll go in favour of the NEO conversion.

Yea, Mercury Motorsports just did it for me. I'll be putting the before and after dyno results up and probably some other information in case someone's thinking of doing this too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2640801
Share on other sites
Atreyu Rising Star

Atreyu

Posted
Posted

There is a thread on doing this swap, not sure which member did it but it goes through all the differences you need to make. Yes you need to use the R34 ecu. The wiring loom needs to get changed a bit and if I can remember correctly he took it to a workshop to get the wiring all done/spliced.

Personally I think its a worthwhile swap and cheaper than 26, 25/30 etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2644265
Share on other sites
shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There is a thread on doing this swap, not sure which member did it but it goes through all the differences you need to make. Yes you need to use the R34 ecu. The wiring loom needs to get changed a bit and if I can remember correctly he took it to a workshop to get the wiring all done/spliced.

Personally I think its a worthwhile swap and cheaper than 26, 25/30 etc.

There might be one, but i can't find it... anyone knows?

From what i heard, i can continue to use my current ECU from my R33, but we'll see..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2646459
Share on other sites
Atreyu Rising Star

Atreyu

Posted
Posted (edited)

I believe you need to use the R34 ECU... Its different to the R33 ECU. They are different motors. Heaps of differences on them.. Sensors. etc etc.

You only got the car less than a month ago and its stuffed already? Thats the question Id like to know.

Edited by Atreyu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2647401
Share on other sites
shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I believe you need to use the R34 ECU... Its different to the R33 ECU. They are different motors. Heaps of differences on them.. Sensors. etc etc.

You only got the car less than a month ago and its stuffed already? Thats the question Id like to know.

Yea. Apparently the bearings inside my current engine wore out and i either rebuild it or i change the engine. There was this dull, thudding sound coming from the engine which increases with the RPM...

I havent even done anything to the car yet =_=

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2647870
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
shoebox Community Regular

shoebox

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finally got back my car a few days ago, and was driving it around.

The following were already fitted before the conversion:

XForce turboback exhaust system

The following things were then put on:

RB25DET NEO engine transplant

Spitfire coil packs

Apexi AFC Neo, RSM

Trust VSPL intercooler

Greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller

As far as the engine conversion is concerned, it appears that these two engines are really quite different, so it involves quite a fair bit of re-wiring, a new crank angle sensor and a few other things which i can't remember. As Arteyu has pointed out, it is quite a different engine, and contrary to popular belief, it's not just the cam heads which are different. However, you can continue to use the R33's ECU.

The guys at Mercury Motorsport did the changeover and tuning, and the power jumped from 141kw to 205.8kw. If anyone is interested in doing this, you might want to give them a call at 1300 558 650 to find out more.

Car's pretty responsive. No complains so far, and they did a pretty good job IMHO.

p1010831largezx0.th.jpg p1010832largena1.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141280-engine-swap/#findComment-2702999
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...