Engine Building Advice Please....

[hungry6]

be ok i guess, needs some machining done, also make sure u keep all the guages sender as they reads differently from head to head, personally i wouldn't use the stock rb30 rod, if u see how long they are, and how thin they are coparing to the rb25 or 26 u be getting forgies, also use sr20 bottom end bearing to help with incearsed load on the bearings. sr20 bearings are more durable than any rb series bearings.

[Sydneykid]

Hi russ, suggestion to your questions follow;

RB25DE and RB25DET heads are the same casting. RB25DE head does not have VVT on the inlet camshaft. This is an advantage when doing hybrids, due to no oil supply issues.

We use a standard R32 GTST RB20DET wiring harnes and Power FC on the RB30/RB25DE hybrid. Ditto on the RB31/RB26DET hybrid.

We use RB30E (N/A) standard crank, rods and pistons in the cheap conversions, up to 500 bhp.

Hi hungry6, the RB30 rods don't have to be as thick as RB26 rods due to the stroke / rod length ratio ie; with a higher ratio, the rod does not have to withstand the side load that a lower ratio has to. Not saying that RB26 rods aren't strong, just that they have to be.

We use the standard Nissan RB main bearings but you really should use Nismo big end bearings. Particularly if you are planning on getting to high compression pressures.

Hope that helps some more.

[Steve]

Sydneykid,

You advised me once to do an RB25/30 engine with a RB25DET head to keep the VVT, but here you are recommending an RB25DE head - what am I missing?

Cheers

Steve

[Sydneykid]

Hi Steve, russ has an R32 GTST so the standard engine, an RB20DET, does not have VVT. Whereas the R33 GTST with RB25DET does. I reckon it is simplier to do a non VVT engine into an R32 and a VVT engine into an R33.

It isn't really relevant to the engine, rather what car it is going into. Plus I think finding an R33 GTST Power FC, which works with VVT) is easier than a R32 GTST Power FC (which are rather rare).

Maybe it's just because I hate changing wiring harnesses, it's a pain in the A.....

Hope that helps clarify.

[DESCR8]

Sydneykid i emailed you any word on the engine parts you mentioned in an email??

Jordan

[Ender]

Hmmm...I see...

After thinking about it I think It's simpler to build a 2.4 or 2.2 and keep the wiring harness and ecu I have...I also think I should be able to get the power I want easy enough....I know I'llalways want more but hey...Maybe I'm paranoid about running over budget plus I know nothing about wiring.

With a 2.2 can I use 4agze pistons and a standard rb20 crank or should I get better pistons than this?

Or...2.4 rb26 crank with 4agze pistons....I know the block needs more work to fit rb26 crank....

Has anyone got one of these engines in their car?? I would like to know what characteristics it has...

Thanks for all your help....I have been reading back through some of the SDU archives....couldnt find anyone who had a 2.2 or 2.4 though...

Cheers,

Russ

[Steve]

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Hi Steve, russ has an R32 GTST so the standard engine, an RB20DET, does not have VVT.  Whereas the R33 GTST with RB25DET does.  I reckon it is simplier to do a non VVT engine into an R32 and a VVT engine into an R33.

It isn't really relevant to the engine, rather what car it is going into.   Plus I think finding an R33 GTST Power FC, which works with VVT) is easier than a R32 GTST Power FC (which are rather rare).

Maybe it's just because I hate changing wiring harnesses, it's a pain in the A.....

Hope that helps clarify.

Much clearer, many thanks

[Sydneykid]

Hi Rus, try JOnJOn posts, he has a 2.4 litre.

If you do an RB25DE top end and an RB30 bottom end you won't need to change the wiring or the ECU. Standard, (freshen up and balance only) this combination, with a suitable turbo, will give you close to 500 bhp, nice power curve and an upgrade path. Your not gunna get that out of an RB20DET.

Add it up, I'll bet you that you spend the same amount of money on the 2.4 litre RB20.

Hope that helps.

[Ender]

So I dont need to change the wiring loom in my car or the ecu?? Is this only if I get the head of an rb25de from a r32gtst... (my cars compliance plate says rb25de...) I will dosome pricing....

I guess I can also sell my rb20det which I guess would go for 900 or so as it is running, 100000kms. which will offset the price considerably given rb30's are quite cheap...

Ok...

I just need the clarification on the wiring and ecu stuff and if I can keep my stuff as is then I guess I would be stupid not to do the rb30 option huh.

Thanks,

Russ